J L Carr said:
Hi Guys. Well tried it again but to no avail, so went back to hard wiring the power so ran the compressor till it told me the car was at road height but then looked at the car and here's the best laugh, passenger side front and rear at off road height front drivers was at road height but drivers rear never moved from the bump stops. So that ****ed me right off, dived into the shed to find an old valve block complete apart from acouple of bits so swapped the lot and low and behold the compressor ran and thd car came up to normal road height, so checked over the unit I have just taken out and noticed this to the suspension control unit, by the looks of things this was at fault. Thanks for your help (again) and imput. Pictures of the unit. As you see the back look a bit odd as the other one I have the back is a black colour. View attachment 215420 View attachment 215419
Click to expand...
The driver pack electrolytic capacitor has failed where you see the cracks in the potting compound. When it fails, it allows voltage spikes from de-energising solenoids to go back the the ECU which scrambles the code. It can be changed with care and usually fixes driver pack problems. I have photo's somewhere if it is of interest. The pressure switch can be checked for continuity with a meter.
The connectors are also a source of problems.
 
J L Carr said:
Hi Guys. Well tried it again but to no avail, so went back to hard wiring the power so ran the compressor till it told me the car was at road height but then looked at the car and here's the best laugh, passenger side front and rear at off road height front drivers was at road height but drivers rear never moved from the bump stops. So that ****ed me right off, dived into the shed to find an old valve block complete apart from acouple of bits so swapped the lot and low and behold the compressor ran and thd car came up to normal road height, so checked over the unit I have just taken out and noticed this to the suspension control unit, by the looks of things this was at fault. Thanks for your help (again) and imput. Pictures of the unit. As you see the back look a bit odd as the other one I have the back is a black colour. View attachment 215420 View attachment 215419
Click to expand...

That driver pack is toast! Open it up. Let's see inside!
 
Datatek said:
I opened one up with a view to reverse engineering replacements, then I found out what was wrong with it and realised many could easily be repaired.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't know what to look for unless it was obviously burnt out,saying that I've impressed myself in the last few days sorting a few electrical problems.much prefer spanners and hammer jobs.Hope your all well in France.;)
 
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But if you take the soft backing off, (as the covering is like a rubbber) then repair it what can you use to recover the back again, as I'm going to pick the covering off and see what the problem was.
 
Another quick question, a couple of my air lines that fit into the EAS block look a bit short especially the back 2, I was wondering if there is a way of extending the pipes,as I have some pipe the same size and strength but how to join them. as I think because there 2 short that's why the back end drops over a few days. Has anybody done this before and what type of junction did they use.
 
J L Carr said:
But if you take the soft backing off, (as the covering is like a rubbber) then repair it what can you use to recover the back again, as I'm going to pick the covering off and see what the problem was.
Click to expand...
You only need to pick off a very small area to replace the component that most often fails.
I use Dow corning electrical silicone to re pot after fitting the new component.
 
J L Carr said:
Another quick question, a couple of my air lines that fit into the EAS block look a bit short especially the back 2, I was wondering if there is a way of extending the pipes,as I have some pipe the same size and strength but how to join them. as I think because there 2 short that's why the back end drops over a few days. Has anybody done this before and what type of junction did they use.
Click to expand...
You can buy air line couplers. Might be better to replace the whole length of pipe to save introducing another potential leak point.
 
J L Carr said:
Another quick question, a couple of my air lines that fit into the EAS block look a bit short especially the back 2, I was wondering if there is a way of extending the pipes,as I have some pipe the same size and strength but how to join them. as I think because there 2 short that's why the back end drops over a few days. Has anybody done this before and what type of junction did they use.
Click to expand...
6mm push fit works.
 
Datatek said:
You can buy air line couplers. Might be better to replace the whole length of pipe to save introducing another potential leak point.
Click to expand...
That's why I did mine. Joined the new pipe to the old in the engine bay and just pulled it through to the wheels.
 
Driver pack innards.
IMG_2405a.jpg
View attachment 215492
IMG_2859.JPG

Last photo shows where I have re-potted the new component.
I need to take a better photo of the component side for some reason only part of the board is showing and it doesn't show the component that fails. Tomorrow.
I've added a better photo of the component side of the driver pack. The component that had failed on the ones I have fixed is the electrolytic brown sleeve bottom left corner. Easy to replace for a few pence.
IMG_1327.jpg
 
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