thspeller

thspeller

Active Member
Team,

I have just fitted a new fully rebuilt engine to my Land Rover series 3. It runs great. However, won’t go into gear as it grinds when I try to select a gear even with clutch depressed. So I am thinking (1) maybe the clutch isn’t disengaging or (2) I have a stuck clutch (clutch plate stuck to flywheel after long period of no use). So I have done some tests. Clutch feels totally normal so I think it is working. I also can push the car with the clutch pedal depressed in gear but I can’t push it with the clutch released. That tells me the clutch is working. I thought therefore I had a stuck clutch but again, I seem to be able to push it on the flat in gear with clutch pedal depressed. Wouldn’t be able to do that if clutch was seized. Gearbox is reconditioned and was working perfectly before engine came out.

Totally confused. Any thoughts or further diagnostics?

thanks

tom
 
I should add that when it is running it won’t go into any forward gears, even with clutch depressed. It grinds as it goes towards reverse.
 
Its not disengage enough so dragging you get the crunch putting it in gear, but not enough so the car moves.

Dont know the series so cant say much, other than adjustment rod and bleed again.

J

As you have posted the second time I would still say its an adjustment/air issue
 
Bled and no issue there. Col - it’s in a tight garage on a hill so a bit afraid to try that I’m afraid. Can you talk me through the rod adjustment so I can try that. If the only change is a rebuilt engine (and clutch) why would the rod adjustment be suddenly thrown out of balance? Tom
 
Did you put any lube on clutch splines, did the plate slide easily on the splines, did you install clutch plate the correct way, there is a right and wrong way
 
I’d imagine so. It was done by a LR specialist and quite hard to get wrong I believe. With the engine off, in gear and clutch pedal not depressed, I cannot push the car (as would be suspected). With engine off, in gear and clutch pedal depressed, I can push the car. That suggests the clutch is not seized and the pedal is maybe ?? working 90%. Since I haven’t touched the clutch pedal components, i don’t understand why this would need adjusting or bleeding. It’s such a mystery.
 
I lubed the splines. The engine and gearbox was a bit of a nightmare to get to go together but nothing out of the ordinary I don’t think.
 
More meat on the clutch linings may mean the thrust bearing has to move down the shaft a tad more. If you take into consideration wear on the forks etc you might be just a tiny bit off it all working. First step is to triple check for any air in the system. Then start at the master cylinder and work your way right through to the thrust bearing. Hopefully you sort it before the bell housing has to come off again.
 
It's been a long time since my S3 days but remove the tin cover off the clutch pedal box and watch the movement whilst someone operates the clutch pedal. You should see very slight free play before the master cylinder rod moves, like a mill or two, that's all you need. Much more and the clutch won't disenge fully. The adjuster nuts are a bugger to get to, think I cut a slot in a ring spanner or something. Then bleed again. Bleed nipple on the slave has to be the right way up although I forget which way, up top iirc.
 
Flossie said:
It's been a long time since my S3 days but remove the tin cover off the clutch pedal box and watch the movement whilst someone operates the clutch pedal. You should see very slight free play before the master cylinder rod moves, like a mill or two, that's all you need. Much more and the clutch won't disenge fully. The adjuster nuts are a bugger to get to, think I cut a slot in a ring spanner or something. Then bleed again. Bleed nipple on the slave has to be the right way up although I forget which way, up top iirc.
Click to expand...
Once the pedal box cover is off you can actuate the pedal from there with a large screwdriver. No need for help. If you’ve got long arms like me you can even bleed from the near side wing. Right arm down to the nipple and left arm reaching over to the screwdriver. :)
 
The only other thing I could think of is the spigot binding on the bush in the crank? With the pedal spring removed, the clutch still feels good which makes me think the clutch is working. I didn’t add additional lube to the spigot when reassembling (the manual doesn’t say it is required) and it’s the old bush so hoped it might have residual on it. I wonder if that could be the cause however. It’s violent but starting in gear (clutch depressed) might break it free?? Thoughts?
 
thspeller said:
The only other thing I could think of is the spigot binding on the bush in the crank? With the pedal spring removed, the clutch still feels good which makes me think the clutch is working. I didn’t add additional lube to the spigot when reassembling (the manual doesn’t say it is required) and it’s the old bush so hoped it might have residual on it. I wonder if that could be the cause however. It’s violent but starting in gear (clutch depressed) might break it free?? Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I doubt if there is enough meat on the bush to cause a lockup. Have you tried a start up with the transfer box in neutral.
 
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