Hi guys
Been following this as I put a post on about my glow plugs. If the coolant temp sensor is ok at the higher temp range but not at the lower would this cause the glow plug warning light not to come on at all ?

If the sensor is a cheapy semiconductor NTC type, and it probably is, they usually fail by going open circuit at some cold temperature, and the ECU would be able to detect that. At least if I were writing the code for the ECU I would report out of range readings as a fault, as a dead sensor could wreck the emissions controls/cat etc.

-Hazel
 
I had the same symptoms bit of white smoke at start ( unburnt fuel ) then clearing turned out to be No1 injector
 
Can't find a local garage who can meter test glow system :eek:
Local LR specialist will only do whole system DX for £50, which I don't want to do as they are 99.9% unreliable in these cases.
IF I ever get anywhere with this I'll be over joyed to share it here.
 
Can't find a local garage who can meter test glow system :eek:
Local LR specialist will only do whole system DX for £50, which I don't want to do as they are 99.9% unreliable in these cases.
IF I ever get anywhere with this I'll be over joyed to share it here.

I think normally the best way is to remove them, with jump leads , put the negative clamp round the body and a positive on the tip,can then see if they glow evenly and as they should

was once told if u put a few strands of wire from the positive to the body of the glow plug and it sparks its ok, but that was a few years ago I was told and I did remove them a tested them properly, only one was working

but by the thin wire test it showed 2 of them was working so just proved it wasn't a good test using thin wires

prefered to remove them as it was easier and also can see the condition of them

maybe there a better way that some of the other members may know of

i sometimes wonder if u take off the lead to each glow plug then use a multimeter set on ohms, put the positive meter lead on the head then the black meter lead on an earth if it could test the resistance through the glow plugs , but not sure if it would work,
 
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Just got back from the garage. I was talking to the mechanic there, and he said his personal diesel has done this exact thing ever since he has had it, which is 5 years. I don;t think it is anything to worry about, and will be very expensive to fix. Still annoying though.
 
Just got back from the garage. I was talking to the mechanic there, and he said his personal diesel has done this exact thing ever since he has had it, which is 5 years. I don;t think it is anything to worry about, and will be very expensive to fix. Still annoying though.

I get smoke out of mine when it's first started then after a few seconds clears,

passes the emissions test every year on the mot so don't worry about it

hope it passes this year me saying that, lol

always put a bit of injector cleaner in each tank fill, also got a synergy box which I don't know if it helps with the emissions etc as it has a maf compensator switch
 
I'm restricted to what work I can do myself (knackered hands) so rely on my son, who has a busy social life ( I remember that).
I hear folk live with the smoke, but this is a huge amount and I have to wait for school kids to pass to start up.
Found a garage who'll test glow system, but in 2 weeks.
 
I have a mad idea. If the glow plugs are all disconnected, by removing the fuse to them, then in theory the engine will take a few more cranks to start, but all the cylinders should fire around the same time. If that cures the fault, then that would indicate one or more plugs are pushing heat at a different rate to the others. If the problem is exactly the same, it sort of points to an injector leak-down or loss of compression that impedes the cylinder heating resulting from cranking only.
 
Hi fellow white smokers :D yesterday I managed get some time to investigate with regards to the above, I decided I would change the glow plugs to see if this would solve the WS problem, this is no simple task as the inlet manifold as to be removed a long with the air intake/intercooler unit.

Upon removing the manifold
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I found this greeting me below
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The pipe coming from the EGR solenoid valve as been burnt through by the hot coolant pipe.
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I removed this pipe to replace it also re-routing it away from the coolant pipe.
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There is a clip on the coolant pipe which I moved to the upper coolant pipe
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As I carry these pipes due to fitting brass injector T pieces I cut myself a new length and replaced the damaged burnt pipe.
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Started at the servo check valve.
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Routed it under the fuel return valve.
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Clipped into the clip now on the top coolant pipe.
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Refitting the pipe to the EGR solenoid valve.
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Note I have added some electrical tape round the rubber pipe were the bracket is in this pic to hopefully protect it from rubbing.
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I then finally move on to the glow plugs but found them really tight and did not want to damage them or break one off, I therefore decided to try that on another day when it was a bit warmer and I had more time.
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I then proceeded to replace the manifold etc hoping that the burnt pipe may have been the cause of the white smoke.

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I could not check for the white smoke until this morning which when the FL was started did throw a little smoke but not anything like it was so hopefully the pipe was the cause I will report back again over the next few days.

It maybe worth others checking in the pipe to see if yours is also damaged as mine was Arctic2

PS What a fool am I I have just checked over the photo's I took in October when I changed the manifold for a clean one and replaced the injector T pieces for brass ones along with a clean EGR and MAP sensor and what have I just seen. :mad:

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How the hell did I miss this then :(

just how bad the pipe had been burnt through maybe not right away but could account for why the white smoke started out of the blue from nowhere? I shall see over the next few days.
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artic

I think this is a common thing, same happened to mine but was only intentified when I removed the inlet manifold for cleaning

think I posted pics on here at the same time

hope things have improved

mine improved when I also done a egr bypass , then fitted a synergy box and it seemed like a new engine

plus the small, filter that sits near the back of the engine and only has one pipe on it,mist that a turbo filter as some have said it's an ird filter, ???

will be nice to know if over the days things have improved for u and always satisfying in fixing the fault and knowing ur car isn't going anywhere near the Land Rover stealer mechanics, lol
 
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what's the theory with this? as a hole in the egr vacuum pipe would mean the egr doesn't open and so is effectively blanked.. correct?
 
what's the theory with this? as a hole in the egr vacuum pipe would mean the egr doesn't open and so is effectively blanked.. correct?


the vaccum pipe system operates the servo, turbo etc as there all linked together , so if a hole is found wouldn't effect the operation of the turbo , brakes etc

is that what u mean ???

I always thought the small filter was for the ird but see its for the turbo

think I may check the rest of my vaccum hoses that goes onto the turbo ,

see u can get a silocone set for a tenner off ebay that replaces all the vaccum hoses
 

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the vaccum pipe system operates the servo, turbo etc as there all linked together , so if a hole is found wouldn't effect the operation of the turbo , brakes etc

is that what u mean ???

I always thought the small filter was for the ird but see its for the turbo

think I may check the rest of my vaccum hoses that goes onto the turbo ,

see u can get a silocone set for a tenner off ebay that replaces all the vaccum hoses

i mean why would you get white smoke from a hole in the egr valve vacuum pipe? :)

just realised Arctic2 wasn't the OP :doh:
 
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