Datatek, what kind of solar cell do you use when the RR is not in use?
20watt with a charge controller, but where you are 50 watt may be more appropriate. The panels can be found for about £20 and the controller from AliExpress for £6
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It snowed approx. 7 cm and it is 4 degrees below zero. No repairs today.
I have an extra 270W solar panel. I think I'll put it on the wall with the controls and cable from it to the car plug. I defend the 270W panel, it might produce enough current for charging in cloudy weather. when the sun is shining, the extra power just isn't used.
 
Hello experts, would you be able to help with these readings, taken with an Icar v2 obd reader. Bank A : front oxygen sensor voltage 316- 317V. Bank B: 320V. O2 sensor heater 15.06 . Oxygen sensor average 46592%.
Also gives a new fault code P1190 Oxygen sensor heater circuit low resistance. Upstream sensors (Driving C)
 
Hello experts, would you be able to help with these readings, taken with an Icar v2 obd reader. Bank A : front oxygen sensor voltage 316- 317V. Bank B: 320V. O2 sensor heater 15.06 . Oxygen sensor average 46592%.
Also gives a new fault code P1190 Oxygen sensor heater circuit low resistance. Upstream sensors (Driving C)
Not kept up but those readings make no sense .
Sensors read -5/0/+5 so you maybe missing a decimal point . They should hang around -1/+1

Please check again.

J
 
Those bank A and B readings first wandered recklessly between 1.5 and 317V both, the connectors were oily, I now shook them with a degreaser at first. After cleaning, the connectors looked good, no oxidation. The readings given above are after cleaning.
 
I have done obd testing three times, almost the same result every time. Does this Icarsoft LR v2.0 give the correct readings?
 
I break the "radio silence" I measured all the wires of the oxygen sensors with a resistance meter. Everything OK. Power and ground connections connections ECM are ok. I think there are two possibilities: the ECM is faulty or the oxygen sensors are faulty as a result of 10 years of non-use. The MIL light does not warn, and the car runs a little shaking at approx. 650 r/min idling. Now I would ask: If I change the ECM unit "plug and play" will I spoil something?
(Similar engine)
I order new oxygen sensors in any case, the car has more than 200,000 kilometers. Is their correct part number ERR-1834?
 
I break the "radio silence" I measured all the wires of the oxygen sensors with a resistance meter. Everything OK. Power and ground connections connections ECM are ok. I think there are two possibilities: the ECM is faulty or the oxygen sensors are faulty as a result of 10 years of non-use. The MIL light does not warn, and the car runs a little shaking at approx. 650 r/min idling. Now I would ask: If I change the ECM unit "plug and play" will I spoil something?
(Similar engine)
I order new oxygen sensors in any case, the car has more than 200,000 kilometers. Is their correct part number ERR-1834?
If you change the ECM, you will have to do a security code re-learn or it will not start.
 
Can you reset the fuel trim settings, it may improve the fuel and emissions? Swapping ecu's isn't as easy as it once was🤔
 
Thanks for the answers! If I change the ECM and it doesn't work, will it work like before if I change the old one back, that is, will any settings change if I change. I've ordered the NCOM05 but it won't arrive until weeks later.
Oxygen sensors have heating resistors. I haven't measured the sensors.
 
Can I start the car if the oxygen sensors are disconnected? I was just wondering what readings I would get with the bridge's Ican tester
 
Thanks for the answers! If I change the ECM and it doesn't work, will it work like before if I change the old one back, that is, will any settings change if I change. I've ordered the NCOM05 but it won't arrive until weeks later.
Oxygen sensors have heating resistors. I haven't measured the sensors.
If you change the ECM and do a re-learn to enable the engine to start, changing back will require another re-learn.
 

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