Stretch · Jun 13, 2016

G'day folks,

I came across the idea of using molasses as a de-rusting medium when I started this thread =>

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/de-rusting-series-safari-roof-vents.300458/

In that thread I've been playing about with a commercial product called Rustyco. It kinda works alright but at 30 euros a bottle it will bite into my project budget for all of the de-rusting that's need on my 1965 series 2a station wagon.

I got a large jerry can of molasses for free from the local farm. They use it for making silage. So I reckon if this stuff is just as slow as the Rustyco then I'm a few euros better off!

Pictures of the crankshaft balancer assembly (off a 2.25 diesel - 3 bearing engine) before treatment

1965 series 2a station wagon crankshaft balancer assembly before molasses treatment1.JPG

1965 series 2a station wagon crankshaft balancer assembly before molasses treatment2.JPG

Now here's the science bit. Stick it in a plastic box with a lid =>

1965 series 2a station wagon crankshaft balancer assembly before molasses treatment3.JPG

Cover it with molasses

1965 series 2a station wagon crankshaft balancer assembly during molasses treatment.JPG

Stretch · Jun 13, 2016

After a few days (of listening to the land lady asking "is it working? is it working?") I got it out for a quick clean up and look

1965 series 2a station wagon crankshaft balancer assembly after being dumped in molasses1.JPG

1965 series 2a station wagon crankshaft balancer assembly after being dumped in molasses2.JPG

I've got a feeling it might actually be doing something!

Well stone the crows!

It seems to do "something" more on the cast iron rather than the pressed steel pulley. I don't know - it is has now been wire brushed a bit - washed and dried - and bunged back in under the molasses.

I'll have another look in a few days and see if there's any change / improvement

freelance · Jun 13, 2016

Hp sauce would probably be effective too!!!!

Bobsticle · Jun 13, 2016

freelance said:
Hp sauce would probably be effective too!!!!

We used to put old pennies in HP to clean them and at this very moment I have a dog tag in it that I found behind the dash on mi trattor. cant read it yet though.

Bobsticle · Jun 13, 2016

Molasses is all very well but that parts of a 1981 Ford Escort................

Stretch · Jun 13, 2016

freelance said:
Hp sauce would probably be effective too!!!!

Bobsticle said:
We used to put old pennies in HP to clean them and at this very moment I have a dog tag in it that I found behind the dash on mi trattor. cant read it yet though.

I might also give vinegar a go but HP sauce is going to work out more expensive. The molasses has cost me nothing - the HP sauce will be about 2 euros a bottle over here and I'll need something like 100 bottles of the stuff to submerge stuff!

Stretch · Jun 13, 2016

Bobsticle said:
Molasses is all very well but that parts of a 1981 Ford Escort................

Seriously?

It does indeed look different to the picture in the parts catalogue

SpringDon · Jun 13, 2016

Stretch said:
After a few days (of listening to the land lady asking "is it working? is it working?") I got it out for a quick clean up and look.

I've got a feeling it might actually be doing something!

Well stone the crows!

It seems to do "something" more on the cast iron rather than the pressed steel pulley. I don't know - it is has now been wire brushed a bit - washed and dried - and bunged back in under the molasses.

I'll have another look in a few days and see if there's any change / improvement

Um, I don't want to seem dim but have you put the right pictures up? It doesn't look that much better or do you have to see it in real life.

Dippypud · Jun 13, 2016

SpringDon said:
Um, I don't want to seem dim but have you put the right pictures up? It doesn't look that much better or do you have to see it in real life.

Maybe should have wire brushed it first ?

Stretch · Jun 13, 2016

SpringDon said:
Um, I don't want to seem dim but have you put the right pictures up? It doesn't look that much better or do you have to see it in real life.

Dippypud said:
Maybe should have wire brushed it first ?

I think you can clearly see from the expert photography that there's light brown rust on the surface before the wonder treatment (cures all ills guaranteed) - and afterwards the cast iron surface is black.

It is truly amazing.

"Something" has happened.

(I now need to go and lie down)

Bobsticle · Jun 13, 2016

It does work if a little slowly. Make sure you get a coat of rust eater and paint on it as soon as its done coz the oxidization starts almost immediately. Even before the part is dry.
Oh and it wont work on oily parts. The oil stops the acid working.

Toonarf · Jun 13, 2016

I tried cider vinegar and recommend it for light corrosion on sheet steel parts.
I have also used the electrolysis method with a battery charger and a soda water solution and that really works.
Google for loads of how to's. Both methods are so cost effective after a bit of set up time.

David

Land Raver · Jun 13, 2016

It's an interesting experiment but not not sure I would park the idea in the successful camp.
Perhaps I'm just impatient though.

I suppose it could be handy to have a tank of it to throw old bolts and stuff you may reuse at some point in the future

boguing · Jun 13, 2016

It does work, but be aware that it will cause the same embrittlement as any other acid/alkali conditioning Hydrogen. In other words, no high tensile stuff should be treated with it. I'll revive that thread when I've done some tests.

I use it at full strength and love the way that it comes off things as you lift it out, very strange. I also like the smell, but apparently some people don't. The only thing that it doesn't do is remove the black stain that corrosion seems to leave. I think that wire brushing off as much as you can is sensible because the effectiveness of the molasses must be finite, although I didn't bother with my first play with it, just wanting to see what it would do.

TheQ · Jun 14, 2016

Cheap coca cola, also works, I've been using it to de rust model railway wheels, leave it in too long and it does turn the steel black. You do need to coat the steel immediately afterwards or it will rust again very rapidly. Tescos sugar free is only 17 p for 2 litres.
So I think a few bottles and a wire brush would be easier than getting sticky molasses off.

Raytheman · Jun 14, 2016

cola doesn't do very much..in dutch we call it a 'monkey-sandwhich'

http://www.oldtimerautosite.nl/cola_ontroesten_metaal_test.htm
Here are tests with several different products;
http://www.oldtimerautosite.nl/alles_over_roest1.htm

Raytheman · Jun 14, 2016

hydrochloric acid seems to work best and pretty fast. Also not very expensive

Stretch · Jun 14, 2016

Raytheman said:
cola doesn't do very much..in dutch we call it a 'monkey-sandwhich'
http://www.oldtimerautosite.nl/cola_ontroesten_metaal_test.htm
Here are tests with several different products;
http://www.oldtimerautosite.nl/alles_over_roest1.htm

Bedankt Ray - ik ben vergeten dat die site bestond!

Stretch · Jun 14, 2016

Bobsticle said:
Molasses is all very well but that parts of a 1981 Ford Escort................

Series 2 club folks think it might be original after all

boguing · Jun 14, 2016

Raytheman said:
hydrochloric acid seems to work best and pretty fast. Also not very expensive

The platers that I went to use Hydrochloric at 35%, which is £25 for 25 litres on eBay.

TheQ said:
So I think a few bottles and a wire brush would be easier than getting sticky molasses off.

Actually the molasses runs off completely if you leave it hanging for a minute or two, so no mess.

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