Well teddy's out the cot.

This is tedious.

It does indeed do "something" but it isn't happening fast enough in the geological time frame in which I am faffing about with stuff.



Yes it will drip off - eventually


Washing it off is faster.

It kind of looks OK - no visible yellow / orange demons.

However - once dry with a bit of treatment from a nancy boy cheapo silverline (so called) wire brush attachment in a cordless drill - you get rust dust!


The rust is hidden under the black stuff

Molasses reminds me of a really slow working version of Fertan (this is a product that converts rust to black stuff much like that stuff the MOD used to use - can't remember what that is / was right now though...)

Anyway I conclude that molasses kind of does "something" eventually. It seems to be converting rust more than eating it away,



Because I'm going really anal on this rust I've now started the rustyco gel solution to see if I can reach a stage where wire brush treatment does not produce dust,

Well - a rate of progress difference.

Time between this post and the last one is just over three hours.

Applied Rustyco gel - kept it wet - fiddled with paint brush adding more etc

Washed it off and got this =>




Minimal wire brush scrubbing was used.

Not bad.

No more rust came off it.

Not as clean as I guess it is possible with persistent sand blasting / soda blasting but after a quick blast of brake cleaner and a coat of ferpox (epoxy anti-rust undercoat) I reckon it'll come good for a bit...

Looks good! My experience with products like Fertan; they convert rust alright. But what is't converted to is not near as strong as iron. More some kind of powder

Raytheman said:

Looks good! My experience with products like Fertan; they convert rust alright. But what is't converted to is not near as strong as iron. More some kind of powder

Click to expand...

Fertan / Jennolite (remembered the name of that MOD stuff!) type stuff just converts the rust into something that then kind of helps to prevent a barrier to further oxidisation. It isn't strong stuff.

Seeing as you're also in Holland have you come across any nice chassis paint in satin (zijdeglans) black?

Hammerite sell the stuff in a tin but brushing stuff on always makes a mess of the finished product (in my opinion) - so I want something in a spray can at least.

Blankers sell some nice Eastwood products =>

http://www.frost-auto.nl/speciale-l...treme-chassis-black-zijdeglans-spuitbus-397g-

But at 31 euros a can it is effing expensive. (Not much cheaper in the UK either even with the more favourable exchange rate at the moment)

Motip stuff doesn't strike me as being particularly durable.

The choice is slim.

Any tips Ray?

Maybe brush it on and afterwards use a paintroller? Spraying is always more expensive and the layer you put on is often almost thinner..
I wouldn't use Hammerite
http://www.kbs-coating.eu/

Raytheman said:

Maybe brush it on and afterwards use a paintroller? Spraying is always more expensive and the layer you put on is often almost thinner..
I wouldn't use Hammerite
http://www.kbs-coating.eu/

Click to expand...

I want it to be a thin even layer - I don't want it to be a lumpy uneven surface.

I've used POR15 as well as the KBS coatings in the past and they are kind of OK but I've found them to be as equally hit and miss at stopping rust as Hammerite.

The black top stuff from KBS is nice (and similar to the POR 15 equivalent) =>

http://www.kbs-coating.eu/index.php?cPath=42

But again with only a brush the finished surface looks like sheet (have to spell **** like that to avoid the stars!)

Looks like I'll get a second mortgage and buy the Eastwood extreme chassis black.

As for Hammerite - I think the stuff is getting better. Their high temperature paint has lasted ages on the exhaust manifold on my Mercedes - whereas other brands usually only last a few months before rust comes through again.

Werken met merken have a rust-oleum satin finish in a can solution I might give a go too (just under 18 euros a can) - see with the epoxy ferpox undercoat I reckon I've got added protection so the top coat really is for looks and a bit of durability...