garyrigden

garyrigden

Active Member
just had a new clutch fitted at the weekend. with the old clutch the biting point was only an inch off the floor. i assumed this was due to the worn clutch,however the biting piont with the new clutch is the same, surely this should not be the case.
anybody know what the problem could be or is this normal with freelanders.
 
Biting point moves towards the top as the clutch wears. A biting point that is too low would indicate a problem with the hydraulics. Depending on which model it could be either master cylinder, bent slave cylinder bracket or air in the system.
 
Chaser said:
Biting point moves towards the top as the clutch wears. A biting point that is too low would indicate a problem with the hydraulics. Depending on which model it could be either master cylinder, bent slave cylinder bracket or air in the system.
Click to expand...


it's a 2000 model 1.8k series.
 
You may find the slave cylinder bracket is bent, they're known to weaken as they age. You'll find them on ebay for about £9.00
 
the slave cylinder shouldnt move when clutch pressed down, im not sure how these are fixed but at a guess it will be bolted if so undo the bolt/s and you probabley find the bolt holes in the cylinder have elongated
 
mine does the same its a 1.8 2000 but havent looked at anything yet. is this a problem someone has had before on a 2000?
 
I'm in the middle of replacing clutch on mine, 98r 1.8i, i replaced the hydraulics and bracket about 5 weeks ago, this did help my gears problem but it came back! clutch out today and its like new all bar 2 strips of unidentified steel jammed insed fingers and release bearing. Any how,think my problems are due to release arm being pretty much seized and you still need to drop gearbox out to resolve this but working WD40 into it at side of G-box will help short term.
 
crowelander98 said:
I'm in the middle of replacing clutch on mine, 98r 1.8i, i replaced the hydraulics and bracket about 5 weeks ago, this did help my gears problem but it came back! clutch out today and its like new all bar 2 strips of unidentified steel jammed insed fingers and release bearing. Any how,think my problems are due to release arm being pretty much seized and you still need to drop gearbox out to resolve this but working WD40 into it at side of G-box will help short term.
Click to expand...

No Deeko you will not need to drop the gearbox just hit the slave with a big hamma and Spanna NSP STYLEEEEE! :D
 
garyrigden said:
.....the slave cylinder does move in its mount when the clutch is pressed!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

An old post but still relevant today. A small amount of movement in the slave cylinder makes a big different to the clutch bit point. I have fixed and reinforced a couple of these recently due to very low clutch bite points and it made a big difference to the clutch feel and gear change.

On the last one I did a video to show it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8t2dvIP3cY
 
I had a problem last year on my 1998 L-series, cylinder moved in its mount when clutch was pressed, difficult to get in gear, could pump the clutch some times (not always), and it worked better. Couldn't see any leaks in the system - replaced master / slave cylinder with one from Bearmach (and also the bracket), and everything was fine. Inspecting the old master / slave after removal, I saw a tiny hole in the master cylinder (where the rod comes out and connects to the clutch pedal). Fluid came out (a little) when operating the system.

Guess that made it possible for air to get in the system.

Hope you get it fixed, whatever it is :)
 
Just bought my first Freelander (1.8) and came across this old post.
Didn't pay a great deal so expect a few teething problems but the first thing I noticed was the lack of pedal movement in the clutch pedal.. Changes gear fine but with my Focus the pedal is half way through its movement before it comes into play. The Freelander however is probably an inch!
Im guessing it could be the bracket issue so I'll start there.
Nice video by the way ;)
 
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