I use Vatcan rust converter, I was told the Royal Navy use it so I thought I would give it a go. You don't need to prep the surface much, it is self priming and jobs I have used it on seem to last very well.
 
I was told along time ago that only fools leave there chassis and 4x4 muddy after off roading.

And thats why, it all sticks in the places you don't want it to and rots it!

Im clearly a fool... Always give it a decent jetwash but never been able to get underneath it properly, until now really.

Bloody chassis rotting away like a bsatard!
 
Im clearly a fool... Always give it a decent jetwash but never been able to get underneath it properly, until now really.

Bloody chassis rotting away like a bsatard!

Goin by photos, I wouldn't worry mate. I don't think it looks bad at all.
 
To be fair im never that worried with you guys here to help. Ill keep it clean over the winter, give it an 'underwash' once a week should keep it fine till I can get it Waxoyld.

I know this has been covered 30 million times but best getting it done professionally or DIY?
 
To be fair im never that worried with you guys here to help. Ill keep it clean over the winter, give it an 'underwash' once a week should keep it fine till I can get it Waxoyld.

I know this has been covered 30 million times but best getting it done professionally or DIY?

if you can get it clean a professional wont do a better job than you should be able to
 
If you do it your self at least you know its done right.
I've done a couple now, And id rather trust my work that some one else's, But then again I'm a bit sceptical like that.
 
Im working to be like that, still some jobs I cant handle on my own, just yet! Learning quick though, shocked about how much land rover knowledge has filled my head in the past 12 months, can only increase :D

Checking out Before & After they look alright, Nene is cheaper ahh ill work it out next year :eek:
 
Im working to be like that, still some jobs I cant handle on my own, just yet! Learning quick though, shocked about how much land rover knowledge has filled my head in the past 12 months, can only increase :D

Checking out Before & After they look alright, Nene is cheaper ahh ill work it out next year :eek:

For what them sort of companies charge you could buy a compressor and a shed load of waxoyl dintrol ect.. and still have change left over.
Makes sense to me but I'm a tight Yorkshire man :eek: :p
 
Going to look into it a lot more closer to the time see whats what. Main thing is at the minute got no bloody place to store anything! Since I bought my Landy i have run out of space everywhere! I fit bits, then buy bits, then store bits etc.. lol Still got to finish fitting my suspension..

Main thing for me is not know exactly what im doing or having a proper place to do so. Knowing my luck id do it 70% right then miss one bit that actually turned out to be full of slow release salt water that rots everything from the inside out with me never knowing! lol
 
Agreed it is good for the time being, but get saving for the inevitable chassis as one day it will need one. It's down to you and what you can do to make this one last as long as you can
 
Very much so. Soon as the Chassis needs replacing I do plan on doing a complete strip a rebuild to create what ive always dreamed of with a perfect mix of off road ability and day to day drivabillity, Dreading the day but also cant wait! :D

Especially after reading all the rebuild threads on here I can make as little mistakes as possible.

I have had a good poke around the chassis and the only rust ive ever found is the pics Ive shown + a tad inside the middle crossmember which I treated, painted and refitted. That said I have no idea on the condition of the inside and as far as I can tell its never been repaired or welded anywhere.

This remindes me.. I need to learn how to weld...
 
Very much so. Soon as the Chassis needs replacing I do plan on doing a complete strip a rebuild to create what ive always dreamed of with a perfect mix of off road ability and day to day drivabillity, Dreading the day but also cant wait! :D

Especially after reading all the rebuild threads on here I can make as little mistakes as possible.

I have had a good poke around the chassis and the only rust ive ever found is the pics Ive shown + a tad inside the middle crossmember which I treated, painted and refitted. That said I have no idea on the condition of the inside and as far as I can tell its never been repaired or welded anywhere.

This remindes me.. I need to learn how to weld...

Chassis is a long way away from needing replacing. As said, save your money and buy a compressor and cavity wax gun. 2 or 3 hundred quid for a new compressor ( I paid £50 for mine second hand) and its yours for ever. Once you pay money out to the so called professionals, its gone.
 
Yeah that is a bloody good point. Half they time they arnt even doing much you couldnt do yourself with a bit of knowledge (which I intend to aquire)

One thing though how the hell do you get most the **** off a landy chassis? Mud comes off easy enough with a decent jetwash or river crossing but what about all the old waxoyl, grease, filth, the really hard sticky ****, half assed patched paint?
 
Yeah that is a bloody good point. Half they time they arnt even doing much you couldnt do yourself with a bit of knowledge (which I intend to aquire)

One thing though how the hell do you get most the **** off a landy chassis? Mud comes off easy enough with a decent jetwash or river crossing but what about all the old waxoyl, grease, filth, the really hard sticky ****, half assed patched paint?

putty knife, hand wire brush and a brush on a grinder, plus time lots of time, and if b paint don't come off its ok means it is sticking, just use a zinc chromemate paint first then waxoil or something like that
 
I reckon Ive repaired more landrover chassis than most, so I reckon Ive got a idea of the weak points!

The td5 version are the worst chassis they have ever made, the main trouble caused by.

1 the silly tow electric hole in the x member that collects water.

2 the worst error which you can remedy are the over sized holes either side of the chassis rails at the back where the wiring loom comes through and the opposite side where they put the same hole (even though even on lhd versions the loom doesnt go through )
These collect mud and destroy the metal so clean them out get some dinotrol or whatever in there and block of the n/s one and make up some type of grommet around the wiring loom.
Yesterday I did a td5 90 x member and got a full bucket of mud out of the chassis:eek:
 
Yeah i saw those stupid holes. Jammed the jetwash in and left it till the water turned clear, obviously being a landy that probably isnt enough!

Didnt realise the tow hole was that much of an issue! Ill get on that in the week.

Any other suggestions on how to clear it out?
 
looks alreet, wire brush back and treat and cover with some sort of anti-rust will be fine.

i plan to cover those holes, i was going to look at rubber bungs for demi-johns when wine making etc, then i can push them in but remove them to inspect/clean the chassis.
 
I'm going to waxoyl the inside of my chassis but the spray gun attachment is only about half a meter long. Are there any natural injection points along the chassis or do I need to put a couple of drill holes in then fit a bung when it's done?
 
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