Davegilsenan
Member
I could do that....but the bolts are in there and don't come out!
I'm gonna take it to the local LR mechanic tomorrow where i should have taken it in the first place and see if he can do it......
I'm gonna take it to the local LR mechanic tomorrow where i should have taken it in the first place and see if he can do it......
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
I just can't picture what yer trying to do Can you post a pic please
1992lse
New Member
i cant see what problem you are having, i have never had any problem with doing the flange bolt up, i take it you mean the large lock nut. god knows how many i have changed now, and normally i just hold the flange with my hand whilst ratcheting up, once it stops its tight, no need to swing off. send you private message
kooky_guy
Well-Known Member
I can see the problem he's having - assuming it's the same procedure as for the P38 then the nut needs to be torqued up. You can't do that while holding it by hand...? RAVE quotes 162 ft/lbs so you'd need a pretty strong hand! (it also says to replace with a new nut).
I'm thinking of doing this myself on my P38 if I can find the pennies for a new VC. What sealant is one supposed to use around the VCU housing face? Rave just says 'sealant'.
And does the oil seal automatically need replacing?
Guy
I'm thinking of doing this myself on my P38 if I can find the pennies for a new VC. What sealant is one supposed to use around the VCU housing face? Rave just says 'sealant'.
And does the oil seal automatically need replacing?
Guy
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
put it in gear?
kooky_guy
Well-Known Member
I would expect the VC to slip before you get anywhere near that torque value as a non seized one is apparently supposed to turn at 30 ft/lbs...
Silicone. Put the bolts in with nuts on and put a flat bar through a couple to tighten flange nut.
1992lse
New Member
I'm thinking of doing this myself on my P38 if I can find the pennies for a new VC. What sealant is one supposed to use around the VCU housing face? Rave just says 'sealant'.
And does the oil seal automatically need replacing?
Guy[/quote]
i generally use a high temperature sealer,you dont need that much round it, just a smear. not sure about that torque setting, but i have never had a problem with one coming loose, and have always used the old nut with a bit of lock tight.
And does the oil seal automatically need replacing?
Guy[/quote]
i generally use a high temperature sealer,you dont need that much round it, just a smear. not sure about that torque setting, but i have never had a problem with one coming loose, and have always used the old nut with a bit of lock tight.
kooky_guy
Well-Known Member
Wot, as in ordinary silicon (bathroom?) sealant from a DIY shop? Apologies if this seems like a daft question...
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
I have a VC sitting on my desk ATM along with 2 oil seals & a bottle of Loctite.
Mind you it HAS bin sat there fer 2 Months now .......I just dropped the front Prop & carried on ...... Oooooooooooooooo I can "Power slide" now !!!!
Mind you it HAS bin sat there fer 2 Months now .......I just dropped the front Prop & carried on ...... Oooooooooooooooo I can "Power slide" now !!!!
kooky_guy
Well-Known Member
I have a VC sitting on my desk ATM along with 2 oil seals & a bottle of Loctite.
Mind you it HAS bin sat there fer 2 Months now .......I just dropped the front Prop & carried on ...... Oooooooooooooooo I can "Power slide" now !!!!
2 oil seals? There's only 1 surely? And according to Rave, that needs a special bleedin tool to fit as well!
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
You got me thinkin then ..so I opened the box to check..Yer quite right
1 X Oil seal P/No FTC4939G
1 X Bearing P/No RTC 6025
kooky_guy
Well-Known Member
Bearing?
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
I have NO IDEA what the bearing is for .. it came with the VC from Ashcrofts (along wiv the Oil Seal)
When I EVENTUALLY get under it I'll let yer know ............
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
jam a long bar through the feckin thing and reem it up...
Outputshaft bearing, output shaft flange oil seal. Measure depth of oil seal before removing. Check flange for wear steps, if none put oil seal back in to same depth with hardwood drift. If any evident. Make the drift out of hard wood with a step on it 2mm deeper than oil seal intrusion that was removed and slowly and evenly drift oil seal into to that depth.
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
YOU DA MAN Tony, YOU DA MAN!!!
1992lse
New Member
no , go to a good car parts shop and get a high temp sealant, but we are talking a bit cross purpose here the original start of this was for a classic not a nightmare 38, i dont know if they are the same, and as Bob says ram a long bar through it and do it up if you are having trouble.
hope you get problems sorted, i am off on my safari holiday so not going to be able to offer much more advice on this, unless you bring it to south africa.
Davegilsenan
Member
Done!
