I could do that....but the bolts are in there and don't come out!
I'm gonna take it to the local LR mechanic tomorrow where i should have taken it in the first place and see if he can do it......
put it in gear?
I can see the problem he's having - assuming it's the same procedure as for the P38 then the nut needs to be torqued up. You can't do that while holding it by hand...? RAVE quotes 162 ft/lbs so you'd need a pretty strong hand! (it also says to replace with a new nut).
I'm thinking of doing this myself on my P38 if I can find the pennies for a new VC. What sealant is one supposed to use around the VCU housing face? Rave just says 'sealant'.
And does the oil seal automatically need replacing?
Guy
Silicone. Put the bolts in with nuts on and put a flat bar through a couple to tighten flange nut.
I have a VC sitting on my desk ATM along with 2 oil seals & a bottle of Loctite.
Mind you it HAS bin sat there fer 2 Months now .......I just dropped the front Prop & carried on ...... Oooooooooooooooo I can "Power slide" now !!!!
2 oil seals? There's only 1 surely? And according to Rave, that needs a special bleedin tool to fit as well!
You got me thinkin then ..so I opened the box to check..Yer quite right
1 X Oil seal P/No FTC4939G
1 X Bearing P/No RTC 6025
Bearing?
You got me thinkin then ..so I opened the box to check..Yer quite right
1 X Oil seal P/No FTC4939G
1 X Bearing P/No RTC 6025
Outputshaft bearing, output shaft flange oil seal. Measure depth of oil seal before removing. Check flange for wear steps, if none put oil seal back in to same depth with hardwood drift. If any evident. Make the drift out of hard wood with a step on it 2mm deeper than oil seal intrusion that was removed and slowly and evenly drift oil seal into to that depth.
Wot, as in ordinary silicon (bathroom?) sealant from a DIY shop? Apologies if this seems like a daft question...