David Drew said:
Hey Singvogel...good to hear from you again.

Bought the car from an independent LR dealer who says he's done all the filters and the pcv already. I can check the air filter myself just to see if he really did do it all.

Put a bottle of injector cleaner in last tank.

EGR. Bypass kit I think will be done

Engine & all hoses look ok but I'll give them a double-check. Engine runs fine so assume hoses aok.

I was going to go for the 2e to avoid any insurance hassles. What do you think? I'm surprised you put this so low on the list

Tyres are normal road tyres

Really appreciate your input. Many thanks

David
Click to expand...

David,

Don't forget the dealer will most likely have done the pcv renewal with the original cotton type element - it's OK of course but it needs to stay on the service list for the future.

Your hoses may or not be OK - the engine will run 'just fine' with a few leaks from the hoses that you are unaware of - only a total failure of a hose will be noticeable by a huge power drop. Give the hoses a good clean - then after a fast run or a long uphill climb with a wide throttle opening take a white kitchen towel and give them a wipe all over - you may be surprised at how much oiliness is there, indicating that the hoses are becoming porous. Even a major split will not be evident at normal speeds and loads. Get someone to rev the engine up to about 3000rpm or a little more and you should see the hoses swell a bit and become rock hard. (Silicone ones don't swell up at all)

Putting the Synergy well down the list was deliberate - not because I think its less important - it's because you you won't get the best from it unless the other things are spot on first.

As for the 2a or the 2e - the extra oomph is very satisfying - it's the wolf in sheep's clothing thing of course. And with decent quality road tyres I tend not to slow for corners as much as I did with the all-purpose 4X4s which I keep for the winter. So higher average speeds and no need to accelerate back up to the speed before the corner.

Cheers,

S.
 
Last edited:
OK. Fitted the Synergy 2e on setting 7. MAF compensation on because a Pierburgh maf fitted.

Let's see how this affect economy. I reckon I got less than 20mpg just running around town for the last 100 miles.

I think I'll have a go at the EGR thingy and anything else recommended in threads that would help.
I like the vehicle so I'd be a bit miffed if I had to sell it due to running costs.
 
David Drew said:
OK. Fitted the Synergy 2e on setting 7. MAF compensation on because a Pierburgh maf fitted.

Let's see how this affect economy. I reckon I got less than 20mpg just running around town for the last 100 miles.

I think I'll have a go at the EGR thingy and anything else recommended in threads that would help.
I like the vehicle so I'd be a bit miffed if I had to sell it due to running costs.
Click to expand...

I get app 30 mpg local driving without traffic jams with the Synergy 2A set on 7 and new Pierburg MAF. Also have the EGR bypass and BMW breather mod, tried two stroke but made no difference.
 
That's promising Nickcc.

Just put in some Redex treatment to give it a bit of a help.

Have not done the EGR yet but was reading up on it today. Next job I reckon.

What EGR bypass kit did you use?

Thanks

David
 
David Drew said:
That's promising Nickcc.

Just put in some Redex treatment to give it a bit of a help.

Have not done the EGR yet but was reading up on it today. Next job I reckon.

What EGR bypass kit did you use?

Thanks

David
Click to expand...

I bought a S/Steel one off ebay which cost £30 incl PP but no seal or bolts. Unfortunately there are none from the same supplier listed at the moment but I have read that the mild steel black painted ones can rust, there's a S/steel one listed for £39.99 + pp which includes the fixing bolts and new hose clip. You shouldn't need the bolts or new O ring as the originals should be OK.
 
I replaced egr with eBay s/s one. Cleaned out a LOAD of carbon crud at the same time.
Made a noticeable improvement in mpg and driving.
2 stroke used now also.
05 td4 auto getting mid 30's that is mainly town driving and pulling a trailer part of the time.
 
Freelander vanman said:
I replaced egr with eBay s/s one. Cleaned out a LOAD of carbon crud at the same time.
Made a noticeable improvement in mpg and driving.
2 stroke used now also.
05 td4 auto getting mid 30's that is mainly town driving and pulling a trailer part of the time.
Click to expand...

That sort of mpg would do me. Looked at egr tonight and it's cruddy but not really bad. Will fit bypass - I like the look of the Allisport one & they are close. Pricy though.
 
Ok, EGR bypass kit and some DPH silicone hoses ordered.

I hope this all works to make the mpg a bit more acceptable.

Having said that, it's quite a hobby owning a Land Rover:)

:)
 
Just fitted the EGR Bypass Kit.

Had to leave the first (long) hose as it was as it was starting to rain & I couldn't work out a quick way of removing the front jubilee clip. The thing is right up against the bodywork in an awkward location. I'll do that later.

Funny thing though. There is now a 'noise' from the area of the EGR that goes on for about 5 secs after the engine is switched off.
Sounds a bit like a 'fart'. It suspect it may be some pressure in the exhaust feed to the EGR that is leaking from that strange clip used to seal it to the EGR. Maybe it's not sealing properly yet.

Any ideas?

Thanks

David
 
Hi David,

Owning a LandRover is not a hobby - it's a way of life! :D

As for the noises - you are now suffering from the 'Dying Duck Syndrome'.

Do a search for 'duck noise' and have a read.

Very easy fix. Some folks are not aware of until it's pointed out to them, but you've detected it right away.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
There is now a 'noise' from the area of the EGR that goes on for about 5 secs after the engine is switched off.
Sounds a bit like a 'fart'
Click to expand...

be known as the 'dying duck' on LZ .. a search will reveal all

it's related to the egr vacuum solenoid ..

at first i thought it were something winding down .. like a fan
( never had a car with an electric cooling fan before :) .. )

there is a cure .. :)
 
Use a small (BA) open ended spanner to unscrew the hex headed hose clip, very fiddly but it can be done.
 
nickcc said:
Use a small (BA) open ended spanner to unscrew the hex headed hose clip, very fiddly but it can be done.
Click to expand...

6mm spanner......... slow, fiddly, but you'll get there eventually! If you purchase, or have, a flexi clip screwdriver


Flexidriver.jpg





It makes life a bit easier when repositioning the front clip.
 
crockett007 said:
6mm spanner......... slow, fiddly, but you'll get there eventually! If you purchase, or have, a flexi clip screwdriver


Flexidriver.jpg





It makes life a bit easier when repositioning the front clip.
Click to expand...

Unable to get a flexi driver onto the head of the clip as the body work blocks it, suppose you could always cut the body work if you get fed up using the spanner but as you say good idea for refitting.
 
Dying Duck!!!

Can't wait to search for that one!!

As for the hose....I kinda dreaded that would be the answer (open-ended spanner).
Still, that's the next job at the same time as strangling the duck.

Thanks lads.

David
 
No I couldn't get the driver on mine either, they must assemble the hoses off the car then put the whole unit in, I couldn't see any other way. Once the hose was off though, when I refitted the new silicone pipe I positioned the clip so that I could use the flexidriver, with the nut of the clip facing horizontal towards the nearside. Much easier! ;)
 
Right, Dying & Faring Duck time again.Read some posts on this but...

Seems the fix is to blank off the pipe that goes into the solenoid that the EGR vacuum pipe comes out of.

Can someone confirm that that does not affect any other function.

Thanks

David
 
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