Really?
Lol
Well what would you rather I call you then? you ain't in trouble with me Gary
I agree, better than bonehead or numb nuts
norseman
Well-Known Member
Well this page is a revelation to me
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.
Well this page is a revelation to me
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.
Very true my rattle gun will happily go upwards of 200nm if you let it, i do them by hand now. Ive even seen people start nuts with one. Torque settings seem to vary with tyre fitters too I had a tyre on my d4 and they told me they’d done it up to 150nm. I didn’t bother saying anything but I did re-torque it when I got back
discool
Well-Known Member
When two metals are in contact with each other in the presence of some electrolyte (copper slip), the less active metal will act as the cathode and attract electrons from the anode. The anode is the material which corrodes.
In the case of galvanic corrosion, the combination of two dissimilar metals with an electrolyte is all that is needed to form a reaction.
Better to use a dab of engine oil where the alloy wheel meets the steel hub and save any issues with the wheels sticking to the hub.
In the case of galvanic corrosion, the combination of two dissimilar metals with an electrolyte is all that is needed to form a reaction.
Better to use a dab of engine oil where the alloy wheel meets the steel hub and save any issues with the wheels sticking to the hub.
neilly
Well-Known Member
I have to say I was quite surprised when I had my wheels balanced, that Kwik fit did not use an air gun to loosen or tighten the wheel nuts.
Cheers
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
tightening till they crack was how i was taught as an agricultural apprentice, it does work with dry threads,Well this page is a revelation to me
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
nothing wrong with an impact gun if you know what your doing or a std wheel brace
