I’ve not seen it in RAVE, but if we’re taking it to extremes the bolts/studs should be recut before torquing
I’ve not seen it in RAVE, but if we’re taking it to extremes the bolts/studs should be recut before torquing
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Just posted an article for you^^^^^^^^^, plenty more on Google.
Up to you what you do, I do mine dry.
I did google and the first one that came up said you can end up under-torquing them
Turboman
Mab An Gov
I am sure that is the case with bolts specced for torquing with lubricant. I usually wipe the studs with an oily rag first, to remove any grit on them, so that will deposit a film of engine oil on them.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Being pedantic, I would say your sentence above reads slightly wrong.
A lubed thread actually applies more tension ( stretch) to the bolt / stud. So if it is lubed less torque should be applied to it to achieve the same stretch. Is what I have always understood.
Cheers
neilly
Well-Known Member
Who knows, that’s the joy of the internet! I thought torque was torque. Like people saying using extensions alters it, which it doesn’t
neilly
Well-Known Member
brian47
Well-Known Member
The main problem with over-tightening a bolt, especially the size of a wheel bolt isn't that it's going to break, well not the first time anyway, but it's the stretching which over time and numerous over-tightenings could cause a failure due to either damage to the threads or metal fatigue within the metallurgical structure of the steel of the bolt.
Unlike many bolts used on a vehicle which once they've been done up they're unlikely to be removed again or if they are, it's maybe just once or twice, wheel nuts and bolts are designed to be fitted and refitted many times during the life of a vehicle.
Unlike many bolts used on a vehicle which once they've been done up they're unlikely to be removed again or if they are, it's maybe just once or twice, wheel nuts and bolts are designed to be fitted and refitted many times during the life of a vehicle.
All of the bolts on my landrovers have been undone and done up plenty of times! Perhaps the wheel nuts less than all the others!
I’m not saying putting copper grease is right or wrong, it’s just what I’ve always been told and doesn’t mean I’ve been told right
well Gary, I have always put a very small dab of copper coat on my wheel nuts for probably 30 years and have just run them up tight with a breaker bar on the right size 6 point socket, as well as a liberal amount where the rim contacts the wheel hub, It is a real b1tch getting a rim off that is rusted on the hub. I have never had a wheel come off in my life time.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
works with bushes and a blind hole and a drift with a good fit in the bush
brian47
Well-Known Member
The only place I use copper grease on my wheels is a smear around the centre boss and another smear between the wheel and the hub. The only reason for doing it is because I've seen tyre fitters using a big hammer to try to break the "corrosion seal" of different metals while trying to separate alloy wheels and cast steel hubs.
wattfield
AKA Dirk Diggler
I use WD40 w
Yeah but you int got a Land Rover innit bruv?
why is when i get called by my name i know i’m in trouble, lol
indeed always done it on the inner rims , but alas not on the threads
thks, saw it done years ago and i was just generally looking on u tube as for the life of me i couldn’t remember how it was done, yeh i know i need to get out more, lol
yep , same reason ref trying to get the wheels off and heard that where they can seriously be a sod to get off
