pos · Oct 7, 2012

Good evening,

I am interested to see any pictures of repairs that people have made to their chassis. My new (to me) 1995 110 is in need a few little bits of fresh steel splicing in down the nearside chassis rail between the gearbox crossmember and the rear trailing arm mount where it's gone through or turned mushy. It's a bit bizarre really - everywhere else is nice and solid.

I just want to see what other people have had to deal with and how they have gone about repairing it

-Tom

mick the builder · Oct 7, 2012

Im in the same boat

test due now and i thought id have a quick look today at the chassis through the rear wheel arch. I have a rusty split on the off side and what looks like the same behind both shock brackets. Wondered if i could remove the brackets, Weld in a plate both sides then re drill holes and fit back brackets.

basher79 · Oct 7, 2012

i just had to do a small patch on my back cross member

dellboy1959 · Oct 7, 2012

None of you mentioned if your any good at mechanics or welding but if not and you have to pay for the work to be done it will cost you a kings ransom over the years.
Secondly,you can weld what the hell you like onto whatever as long as you don't mess with the overall setup of the running gear and suspension.
Most importantly--------GET YOURSELF A WELDER AND PRACTICE

Retroanaconda · Oct 7, 2012

I had this....

Which eventually became this....

pressbrake · Oct 7, 2012

mick the builder said:
Im in the same boat test due now and i thought id have a quick look today at the chassis through the rear wheel arch. I have a rusty split on the off side and what looks like the same behind both shock brackets. Wondered if i could remove the brackets, Weld in a plate both sides then re drill holes and fit back brackets.

Common fault to yes unbolt and plate it, 3mm isnt going to effect shock geometry

pos · Oct 7, 2012

Thanks for the replies. Any one got more pictures? I am looking specifically for sections that have been seamlessly spliced into the chassis rails as this is what I want to achieve. I own a 130 glassless MIG and have taught myself over three years to weld to an acceptable degree. Some bits I will tackle myself but others might just require a little assistance!

-Tom

dellboy1959 · Oct 7, 2012

pos said:
Thanks for the replies. Any one got more pictures? I am looking specifically for sections that have been seamlessly spliced into the chassis rails as this is what I want to achieve. I own a 130 glassless MIG and have taught myself over three years to weld to an acceptable degree. Some bits I will tackle myself but others might just require a little assistance!

-Tom

Seamless welding would involve a lot more work as you would have to cut out the rot and make a plate to fit flush with the rest of the steel,then after welding,grind down the weld so it's flush.
If were talking expensive motors then fair enough but you've got to ask yourself is it worth the extra work just so it looks untouched:scratching_chin:

pos · Oct 7, 2012

dellboy1959 said:
Seamless welding would involve a lot more work as you would have to cut out the rot and make a plate to fit flush with the rest of the steel,then after welding,grind down the weld so it's flush.
If were talking expensive motors then fair enough but you've got to ask yourself is it worth the extra work just so it looks untouched:scratching_chin:

Yes

Shifty1962 · Oct 7, 2012

Listen to Pressbrake. He's a welding wizard complete with an engineering degree and a boat load of practical real world experience. I'd go with functional rather than cosmetic. JMHO.

pressbrake · Oct 8, 2012

Thanks shifty.
Butt welding in repair is the nicest way to do it, though be aware of places where its under a live load as ground flat butt welds on thin material can be prone to cracking.
Also large plates welded with out cooling off after each tack and run can distort the chassis.

pressbrake · Oct 8, 2012

Retroanaconda said:
I had this....

View attachment 36236

Which eventually became this....

View attachment 36237

Well done

plating the void where the A frame x member meets the chassis will make the chassis a lot stronger and protect the x member and chassis from rusting out. On my own landrovers Ive had, this has always been done to stop corrosion at that point and save dramas later on

mick the builder · Oct 8, 2012

pressbrake said:
Common fault to yes unbolt and plate it, 3mm isnt going to effect shock geometry

Thanks.

Retroanaconda · Oct 8, 2012

pressbrake said:
Well done
plating the void where the A frame x member meets the chassis will make the chassis a lot stronger and protect the x member and chassis from rusting out. On my own landrovers Ive had, this has always been done to stop corrosion at that point and save dramas later on

Thanks PB. My thoughts ran along similar veins, as well as preventing further rotting out (although I suspect the rest of the chassis will be long gone before that 3mm plate disappears) it provides further strengthening along the longitudinal of the chassis rail at that point.

I will point out that I rebuilt the internal angles as originally built first too, before capping it.

pos

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basher79

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