G

Gingerbread

Member
I am needing to tackle the corrosion on the rear chassis area. I realise its a very common area to rot out. But looking at the problem I cant help think that the cause is likely due to moisture settling internally in the low point in the chassis rail. With the open rear end of the rail tube along with its overlapping seam construction it seems very plausible the issue emanates from the inside. Has anyone got any informed views on this? If this theory is true then it would be logical to close/blank off the tube and/or add a drain hole at the lowest point.

IMG_5054.jpg
 
All the lr box section chassis fail from the inside, there are a quite a few moisture traps in them.
 
Isn't this the entry hole for the moisture? Seems like its an uphill battle if this is not closed up. You often see people pathing this corrosion area up without adding drain holes or closing off the end of the tube. If anything that will act as a renewed water retainer.


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Pointless trying to stop water getting in now or ever really. Where your corrosion is, and everyone else’s for that matter, is two or three layers thick. It’s a crap design, end of.
 
Many years ago I had the idea of putting old engine oil in the chassis. So set about counting how many holes I needed to fill to keep it in there, if my memory is correct there are 64 of them, so you have no hope of keeping the road spray etc. out of the chassis.
 
Anaconda said:
Drill some more drain holes.
Use cavity wax and coatings of your choice every year.
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Second this!
After you've had the rot cut out and repaired properly.
Air which is 10 % water at almost all times, condenses and then runs down to the lowest point. So this plus bare metal => rust.
Simple as.
The drain holes ought to make it run out faster, especially if it has been for a swim or a drive in the wet. Or has been cleaned with a pressure washer.
Best of luck!
 
With Hot/Cold cycles, air moisture will condense inside a sealed section, hence why car sills can rot out - will be same inside the chassis.
Not helped by baffles/strengthening plates welded inside the box section, trapping road dirt and/or mud keeping moisture or water around bare metal/welds.... just a matter of time before it breaks through from inside.
Waxes and paints dry out/flake off over time too, so oil is the best idea IMHO.
I like the ACF50 product as it adheres and coats nicely as a fine mist.
But engine oil / your preferred oil, even lanoguard, is OK, just needs reapplying every 12 or 24 months.
 
I mix some diesel with old engine oil and spray that around.
It's a tip and old boy told me back in the early 80's, and have done it with all of my keepers.
My Nissan Terrano was solid underneath, when I sold it, the buyer had owned them before and knew the places to check for rot.
He couldn't believe how solid it was.
I fire the gloop into doors and cills.
I try and avoid getting it on rubber components though
 
THe front end of discoverys are usually totally rot free. The constant supply of oil from leaky gaskets preserves the chassis beautifully. Oil, unlike lanoguard, seeps and creeps until eventually (given the supply is constant) everything gets coated. I think I'm going to use scrap oil method. Its easy to do and you do not need to be precise or super thorough as it self tracks.
 
Does anyone have any advice on how much material to cut out in this case? If I make a small patch replacing only the rusted area would that be a missed opportunity to replace a large section of the dip for a long term fix?

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Gingerbread said:
Does anyone have any advice on how much material to cut out in this case? If I make a small patch replacing only the rusted area would that be a missed opportunity to replace a large section of the dip for a long term fix?

View attachment 320752
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The rust and subsequent cracks run all along the central seam, as well as in other places. You can see the crack starting at the top of your pic.
Best to cut back to GOOD metal and then insert 3mm steel, or to buy a new 1/2 or 2/3rds chassis.
 
Are the chassis rails tubes open internally along its full length such that I can pass a long oil spray tube along its length? I am planning to rust proof it internally.
 
Gingerbread said:
Are the chassis rails tubes open internally along its full length such that I can pass a long oil spray tube along its length? I am planning to rust proof it internally.
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Here is an example of what you will find. These were taken when I done mine.
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Gingerbread said:
Looks like you did a good job there. What thickness steel did you use? Was there anything you would have done differently?
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I got the steel pre-cut for the disco chassis. EBay I think it was. I used some 2mm galv sheet I had as well though for the bottom plate. I don’t think there was anything I would have done differently though. It is what it is I’m afraid……cut out as much rust as you can and weld in new. I did think after I’d done it though, for the work involved I’d have been as well getting a new back chassis section, but I’m too miserable to spend the money.
 
This is what I got, but you can get pre fabricated sections as well. It doesn’t come with a bottom plate though remember. Which is a bit odd.
www.ebay.co.uk

Rear Chassis Leg Repair kit for Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 Panel Rail Weld 3mm | eBay

Discovery 2 / Td5. Land Rover Discovery 2 / Td5. This kit is designed to allow you ( or your garage ) to weld plates over the corroded chassis sections to enable you to pass your MOT. Land Rover. The rear chassis on the Discovery II models is proving to be susceptible to rust and can lead to...
www.ebay.co.uk
 
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