Beast o Bodmin
Banned
also hand file the bolts so they have a head on and spanner out may work.they get hot so personally i would bench the engine.
ffs Bob!
If yu can remove a 200TDi injun on yo own, without a hoist; and file bolts that have sheared with a socket on the head, and then undo them, then yu are welcome to come up here and help
Will try a blowtorch on the bolt that is protruding, and maybe a stud extractor (see post #10) then will have to try and lever it orf. Cant see any other way, at the mo.
If yu can remove a 200TDi injun on yo own, without a hoist; and file bolts that have sheared with a socket on the head, and then undo them, then yu are welcome to come up here and help
Will try a blowtorch on the bolt that is protruding, and maybe a stud extractor (see post #10) then will have to try and lever it orf. Cant see any other way, at the mo.
gas powered blow torch and mole grips wouldnt touch it.
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
would there be enough bolt to die and then slide ovev case and treat it as a stud?
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
ya know leave it in.use a nut to refit.
If I understand it correctly, the long pump bolts invariably shear off. So grind them off and the pump and cover will slide off. Then use the stud extractors, (item b) are good because they give you good purchase. About £18 I think. A bit of heat may help as well. When you refit the new bolts, use copperease on the threads.
The Bergen timing kit is only £48.50 delivered.
The Bergen timing kit is only £48.50 delivered.
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
aaah i see.
pain them.wish peeps woud copper slip stuff...
well done.
pain them.wish peeps woud copper slip stuff...
well done.
that is, of course, what I am hoping...... however I cannt go any further until I get the damper pulley and locking kit in a day or so.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Looking at stud extractors.....
Anyone got personal experience of the "best" type - ie most successful?
a)
b)
c)
The order that they are best in is A,B,C. I have B and C if you wanna borrow em? I can post em to you if needs be.
discobill
Active Member
Anyways..regards the sheared and flush bolts, if access allows, could you not try an Eazi-out. A decent cordless would put the hole down the middle for ya. If that don't work then drill out the same diameter as the bolt and re-tap.
I do sympathise with ya..it's dead easy to post this stuff, but......
I do sympathise with ya..it's dead easy to post this stuff, but......
Yu mite also have noticed a few cover holes with no bolts in.... I havent removed any! Why cant peeps just do the job propper? I assume it must have been like this for the last 60K miles
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
Yu mite also have noticed a few cover holes with no bolts in.... I havent removed any! Why cant peeps just do the job propper? I assume it must have been like this for the last 60K miles
agreed.good slap of slip on the bolts.all holes tapped out first to clean only takes 10 mins yet still peeps persist in ****in up stuff.all the landys i have sold on still live and two guys have even contacted me months later saying how pleased they were to find greased bolts on refit.
new motto
LZ do it right or **** off.
Just as a point of interest....
If anyone wants to make a damper extractor. The holes in it are 75mm centre to centre, and the two bolts are hi-tensile M8 coarse thread bolts. Instead of a central bolt a socket over the pulley bolt will give a flat surface to push against without damaging the crank pulley bolt.
(Thanks to LRO)
If anyone wants to make a damper extractor. The holes in it are 75mm centre to centre, and the two bolts are hi-tensile M8 coarse thread bolts. Instead of a central bolt a socket over the pulley bolt will give a flat surface to push against without damaging the crank pulley bolt.
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