It runs without bearings, the roller appears to be galvavised the rope comes underneath it with 2 anticlockwise turns and comes off at the top , the capstan rotates anticlockwise. i am short of a driveshaft and UJ for my spare winch, the driveshaft is not too bad at pg winches around £40 but easy to make with a lathe, but the UJ is mad at over £90, it looks quite difficult to make, are you planning to make all parts
 
Yep
Just made the roller using 1.25" gas pipe (3.5mm wall) and the bearings from an old UJ (Perfect fit in to the pipe)
The brackets are were welded up from 6mm steal plate (Thanks for the measurements).

My plan for the drive dog is to use more of the gas pipe with a piece of the 6mm plate welded over one end and a large bolt to fabricate the replacement drive dog.

The drive shaft will be made from a old starting handle in two pieces with a sleeve and pins welded halfway down to allow the two pieces to slide in to the sleeve and a spring in between.
The UJ will be a Snap-On (Life time guarantee) 1/2 drive socket set UJ. One end of the drive shaft will be squared off to fit the UJ.
The other end of the UJ will be another piece of the 1.25" gas pipe with a old socket welded in to the end and this will slip over the input to the winch and will be held in place by a 8mm brass bolt acting as a shear pin.

I will post some pic when done.
 
HI Clivees
sounds like you have it all sorted! i have a pdf of the capstan winch
manual if you want it, pm me your email (too big to post).

I thought about a the 1/2 inch drive Uj im sure they would be strong enough

The original roller is solid so the gas pipe may not take the strain as well if the rope is pulling at an angle

the normal shear pins are 1/8 or 3/16 in brass and ok for 3000lbs they do a steel one too, 8mm is too big.

the recommended rope is 20mm, they say done use nylon as they can melt, i got 30m af 20mm manilla rope from Euroropes on net,

there is also a 2 piece L shaped bracket which bolts to btm chassis and aligns the driveshaft with drivedog and engages correctly when you move the lever
If you havent finished it by then , I can get a few more measurements at the weekend if its not too wet.
 
i gorra spare chunky one here - if yu interested.

not sure it needs to be balanced - but they are cheap as chips orf a Rover 200 series.
 

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The Mad Hat Man said:
i gorra spare chunky one here - if yu interested.

not sure it needs to be balanced - but they are cheap as chips orf a Rover 200 series.
Click to expand...
That looks better that what i had planned, can you put it to one side and i'll collect it at the next TOSSER's meet.

Ps
Thanks steve2286w i have PM'ed you with my email address.
 
I think that one is from a Rover 600 series. If yu need dims.....

Hollow tube end - 23.8mm O/D, 17.3 I/D.
splined end - 19/32inch (14.7mm) O/D. 13mm from spline to flat.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
I think that one is from a Rover 600 series. If yu need dims.....

Hollow tube end - 23.8mm O/D, 17.3 I/D.
splined end - 19/32inch (14.7mm) O/D. 13mm from spline to flat.
Click to expand...

Thanks but it dosent matter that much, caus i have a MIG and i know how to use it:eek:
 
dunno - I aint gorra motor called "Tufty". I think the only peeps wot have is you and Patman:D. An I dont think you can jump anthills at the mo in it?:D:D.

anyroadup - it werent me casting Nasturtiums - I think it was a bit closer to home, Clivees.:rolleyes:
 
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