davek0974

davek0974

Well-Known Member
HI all,

working myself up to the first cambelt change on my D1 300tdi. I see there is a pin for locking the flywheel and one for locking the FI pump but what about the camshaft??

I'm only panicking about the job as the engines running so well at present and have read tales of troubles after a belt change. I will only buy good parts for this job, is there a complete kit or do i need to add water pump gaskets etc??

The main and aux fanbelts also need doing as they are looking ratty plus a slight squeek from what i think is the fanbelt tensioner so i guess i'll need one of those too??

I know about cranking over twice to recheck the pins and adjusting the FIP pulley etc, i have the manual and a haynes book and a needle type torque wrench.

So what about the camshaft??

Dave
 
davek0974 said:
HI all,

working myself up to the first cambelt change on my D1 300tdi. I see there is a pin for locking the flywheel and one for locking the FI pump but what about the camshaft??

I'm only panicking about the job as the engines running so well at present and have read tales of troubles after a belt change. I will only buy good parts for this job, is there a complete kit or do i need to add water pump gaskets etc??

The main and aux fanbelts also need doing as they are looking ratty plus a slight squeek from what i think is the fanbelt tensioner so i guess i'll need one of those too??

I know about cranking over twice to recheck the pins and adjusting the FIP pulley etc, i have the manual and a haynes book and a needle type torque wrench.

So what about the camshaft??

Dave
Click to expand...

I think graham is the one who will be able to enlight u;)
 
sierrafery said:
I think graham is the one who will be able to enlight u;)
Click to expand...

Who me??!!!
Learn from my mistakes it will save you some pennies and skin on your knuckles ;)
- either buy the crank damper extractor or make one out of m5(?) bolts - I buckled mine which costs £50 for a replacement
- same with crank sprocket, that was even harder to remove! M5, 0.8 thread
or buy a puller and grind the feet down.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/crank-sprocket-removal-112003.html

- shield your rad, or put a hole in it and buy a new one
- use the correct size drill bit for fuel injector timing pin, check arrow lines up on cam sprocket with the rear casing and double make sure the crank arrow lines up. There's also a timing hole in bell housing. If it doesn't all line up chances are your disco won't start!!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/non-starter-after-belt-change-111913.html

Definitely worth turning thd engine over using wratchet on the crank, keep turning until the belt has done 2 revolutions, then recheck all timing marks and retension belt.
-oh and make sure you slacken off the fuel pump sproket bolts to allow it to allign correctly with the belt, and work anticlockwise from crank to ensure the tensioner is last.
 
Just athought about your squeaky serpentine belt tensioner Dont buy a replacement tensioner just replace the bearing .Only costs a few quid as opposed to a lot of quids for the full tensioner:)
 
Great stuff, so the camshaft just sits there then.

I have a full engineering workshop in the garden so making a three-bolt centre-pull extractor wont be any trouble at all.

Also no worries with the lock pins, i'll modify a wading plug for the flywheel unless i can find the thread they used on the hole???

The last bit im concerned about is getting the crank bolt undone.:eek:

Without going and looking, is the water pump part of the cover?? Cant remember.

I've got aircon so i'll probably leave the rad/cooler in place.

Dave
 
gR@HaM said:
Who me??!!!
Learn from my mistakes it will save you some pennies and skin on your knuckles ;)
- either buy the crank damper extractor or make one out of m5(?) bolts - I buckled mine which costs £50 for a replacement
- same with crank sprocket, that was even harder to remove! M5, 0.8 thread
or buy a puller and grind the feet down.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/crank-sprocket-removal-112003.html

- shield your rad, or put a hole in it and buy a new one
- use the correct size drill bit for fuel injector timing pin, check arrow lines up on cam sprocket with the rear casing and double make sure the crank arrow lines up. There's also a timing hole in bell housing. If it doesn't all line up chances are your disco won't start!!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/non-starter-after-belt-change-111913.html

Definitely worth turning thd engine over using wratchet on the crank, keep turning until the belt has done 2 revolutions, then recheck all timing marks and retension belt.
-oh and make sure you slacken off the fuel pump sproket bolts to allow it to allign correctly with the belt, and work anticlockwise from crank to ensure the tensioner is last.
Click to expand...


If you don't/can't do this you make a cobblers of it, ask me how I know :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
davek0974 said:
Great stuff, so the camshaft just sits there then.

I have a full engineering workshop in the garden so making a three-bolt centre-pull extractor wont be any trouble at all.

Also no worries with the lock pins, i'll modify a wading plug for the flywheel unless i can find the thread they used on the hole???

The last bit im concerned about is getting the crank bolt undone.:eek:

Without going and looking, is the water pump part of the cover?? Cant remember.

I've got aircon so i'll probably leave the rad/cooler in place.

Dave
Click to expand...

crank bolts easy just stick a breaker on the bolt and turn the engine over on ignition, although you prob already knew that.
I left aircon, rad and all the hoses in place and lined everything up using a mirror just watch out for the rad, I only knocked mine but it was enough for it to pish coolant everywhere!!
 
When I did the cambelt on my wife's TDi "the first time" I found it a lot easier to take out the rad and intercooler (you can flush them as well) so you can get a good straight view of the camshaft pulley timing marks, plus you don't end up catching the rad. The water pump does not need to come off.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to slacken off the injection pump pulley bolts (or one of them at least) as someone had been there before and rounded them off!! The results were catastrophic. The car ran better than ever for about 5mls, then clanky clanky THWAP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


So I've got the rad out again...................................
 
Excellent, i was struggling to see why i needed to rip the rad and pipes out, making the job even bigger, and also giving the chance of airlocks etc.

I'll go for taking the cowling and fan off and work round the rest. I dont like making difficult jobs harder.:eek:

As its all running fine, i'm hoping the FIP bolts have not been butchered, judging by the general lack of maintenance, i'm guessing no-ones been in there for some time, if ever. I cant tell as no service history so i can only expect its been a long time fitted.

Dave
 
Definitely use an extractor on the crank damper I levered mine off to replace (as buckled it previously) to find meself putting a hole in the foookin timing case!!!!
Pretty close to torching it at the moment
 
Kinda thought it would be a 5min job to remove as it'd only done about 10miles since doing the cambelt (as it wouldn't change outta 1st).
Stupid fookin thing, I lost all incentive with it

Did add a lashing of copper grease before fitting the new damper mind you
 
Yu gorra take it off again to replace the cover, Graham? Yu gonna get the timing kit, or borrow one? Pleeeeeez ;)
 
davek0974 said:
Excellent, i was struggling to see why i needed to rip the rad and pipes out, making the job even bigger, and also giving the chance of airlocks etc.

I'll go for taking the cowling and fan off and work round the rest. I dont like making difficult jobs harder.:eek:

As its all running fine, i'm hoping the FIP bolts have not been butchered, judging by the general lack of maintenance, i'm guessing no-ones been in there for some time, if ever. I cant tell as no service history so i can only expect its been a long time fitted.

Dave
Click to expand...
Tiz a lot easier and quicker to remove rad. Yu can see everything thru the grill.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Cost for cambelt replacement D1 200tdi
Replies
2
Views
470
Baker556
B
Padda.116
300tdi auto disco 1 BURNING RUBBER SMELL
Replies
4
Views
312
patrickmoran
P
L
Help needed please with excessive vibration Freelander 2
Replies
6
Views
545
LKD
L
Padda.116
300tdi disco 1, new head gasket oil leak!!
Replies
10
Views
574
Padda.116
Padda.116
B
Making my 1994 200tdi reliable
Replies
18
Views
1K
D1Nut
D1Nut