Tarantula

Tarantula

New Member
Looking at this TD5.

I don't know much about rust treatment, but obviously this isn't a good sign.

I was thinking to get some professional waxoyling with hard wax etc done, would that cure this or has it gone too far and should be avoided?

20120913162126r.jpg

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20120913162036eer.jpg

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It's also starting to rust on a door:
20120913161910r.jpg


Also, some of the black bumper paint is peeling, is that easily enough fixed?
201209131617501rr.jpg


Other than that I really like it :D
 
Last edited:
He says the same.

I'll be honest though, I wouldn't really be able to tell! Hence calling upon those who do actually have a fcking clue :D

Surface rust can just be waxoyled and fixed, right? It's a bit under budget as it is so it's tempting to just buy it and get it treated properly with the change..
 
I have recently bought one just the same. I have had a good poke round underneath and it does seem to just be surface rust, it does look awful though,so i am going to treat it hopefully. I reckon the worst part will be trying to undo nuts etc it might mean grinding them off when the time comes to work on anything. All part of land rover ownership !!! :):D
 
Aye give it a good tap. My RR looked bloody awful, but one I had rubbed it down it looked fine except for passenger sill.
 
If that chassis is cleaned up and waxoyled it would look pretty good I reckon,seen many far worse.
Rear end needs checking the most from the rear wheels back,never seen one welded in front of rear wheels
 
Excellent, cheers for your input guys! I'll go down and view it, tap around the back end check it's solid. It's under budget so I'll spend the change on a professional waxoyling.
 
HenryD said:
If that chassis is cleaned up and waxoyled it would look pretty good I reckon,seen many far worse.
Rear end needs checking the most from the rear wheels back,never seen one welded in front of rear wheels
Click to expand...

I agree ^^^^^^^.

That is alright for a D2. Unfortunately, unlike the D1, it wont be the body that kills off many D2,s, but the rusting chassis.
 
Mine look similar except for the middle of the truck where my transfer box keeps my chassis nice and lubricated from the bleeding oil leaks.Every MOT time i have to clean the hand brake drum,Burn oil of the hand brake shoes and replace the oil seal,,Hand brake now works well and passes its mot,About a week later hand brake dont work again.Been doing this for the last 6 years.You would of thought that the box would be out of oil by now.
 
If the original poster does buy this vehicle, make sure that the price you pay REALLY takes into account this condition.

Also bear in mind that in the same general area on the vehicle you have the ACE system hydraulic pipes, which are prone to corrosion also.

Please please, for your own sake DO NOT PAY TOO MUCH FOR A DII; these vehicles are falling out of fashion faster than shoulder-pads in the 80's.

If you pay over the odds now you will lose a bundle.

Bear in mind what the majority of the market-place is looking for nowadays and into the future - economical cars. TD5's average approx 25-28mpg on diesel at £1.40-ish?


I am absolutely not saying don't buy a DII, they are brilliant vehicles - I'm just saying don't pay too much for it or the depreciation will really cost you dear!!!

Dave
 
I bought another D2 recently in a similar condition, by the time I power washed the underside and let it dry for a few days most of the surface rust was gone. I'm about to waxoyl shortly and I'm sure it will come up looking as clean as a silver shilling up a sweeps arse. It's pretty rare to find any vehicle more than 2 or 3 years old without surface rust underneath.
 
psnowy said:
I have recently bought one just the same. I have had a good poke round underneath and it does seem to just be surface rust, it does look awful though,so i am going to treat it hopefully. I reckon the worst part will be trying to undo nuts etc it might mean grinding them off when the time comes to work on anything. All part of land rover ownership !!! :):D
Click to expand...

Soak the nuts and bolts for a couple of days before you attempt to undo them...

Have the right sized socket / spanner and take your time, they all went on, so they'll all come off. :D
 
Yeah thats the plan first try the wd 40, grinding and cutting/heat etc is always my last choice,lots of bloody knuckles and swearing eventually wins the day !!(usually !!)
 
Biglad - Bought it, collecting on the weekend. It was in MINT condition inside and out other than the underneath surface rust. Paid under budget enough to allow a pro rust treatment.. and perhaps a nice new set of ATs.

Gave it a good bash underneath, seems solid.
 
Tarantula said:
Biglad - Bought it, collecting on the weekend. It was in MINT condition inside and out other than the underneath surface rust. Paid under budget enough to allow a pro rust treatment.. and perhaps a nice new set of ATs.

Gave it a good bash underneath, seems solid.
Click to expand...


I'm delighted for you mate - ENJOY !!!!!

If I just suggest, before you spend all your dosh, give the new car a good going through on a 'preventative maintenance' basis.
 
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