Golden Rule:

Never ever buy a Range Rover with Faults no matter what the Seller/vendor says, unless you are fully aware and are prepared for the costs and work involved in repairing it!

A Range Rover with a fault can empty a healthy bank balance rapidly.
 
I've found a similar one apart from its the 4.6 hse, needs minimal work so the advert says, roof lining sagging in the back and rear bush needs replacing, will give them a phone tomorrow and report back!
 
Goggztait said:
I've found a similar one apart from its the 4.6 hse, needs minimal work so the advert says, roof lining sagging in the back and rear bush needs replacing, will give them a phone tomorrow and report back!
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If this one has coils... Don't. Just don't. Do a search on here to find out why. Good luck.
 
Coils aren't as dangerous as they are made out to be. There is a slight increase in risk of roll over, but it is less than you'd get by fitting a roof rack and loading up.

However a RR on coils is like a broken pencil. Pointless. Always get one with EAS. It can be a bit troublesome at times to keep tiptop and repairs cannot be put off or you'll quickly have a knackered compressor. But there are no modern cars (beyond RRs) that ride as well as an air sprung RR.

doz said:
As he's tried to muddy your name I'd walk on that alone. As for the suspension. Depending on what's been removed it can cost a lot more to swap bag to air ride from springs. I was under the impression if a new dash was fitted the mileage will always revert to what the BECM has stored (correct me if I'm wrong). So if it's reading the clock mileage but saying there is a fault maybe the wrong dash has been fitted or there's deeper issues. So I'd keep hunting around. When I was looking for mine I saw perfectly serviceable cars for not much money than his asking. However I did have to travel in the end to get my current one.
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The BeCM and cluster each store a copy of mileage. If you replace one or t'other they will look at which unit has the highest miles and go with them. If I wanted to replace my BeCM or cluster I don't have to look hard to find a unit with lower miles than my current set as there aren't many P38s nudging 200k.
 
A P38 on coils suggests lack of care & maintenance elsewhere. If they cant be bothered or afford to have the EAS sorted what else have they neglected?
 
Another p38 another srs airbag problem, I'm guessing this is a very common fault? I've passed on the one I viewed today due to that, didn't quite fancy the 4.6 hse! Think I will be travelling down south to find the right one for the money.
 
It pays to be patient if you can. I looked at so many dogs when looking for mine it nearly put me off....turning up only to see them on the bumpstops, faults popping up...& these all described as 'everything working'!
 
Goggztait said:
Another p38 another srs airbag problem, I'm guessing this is a very common fault? I've passed on the one I viewed today due to that, didn't quite fancy the 4.6 hse! Think I will be travelling down south to find the right one for the money.
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SRS isn't a common problem. Although RR recommend you replace them at (I think, memory is poor) 12 years.
 
Well the car was 16 y/o, every p38 I seem to be seeing are in the region of 1600-2000 and these are ones with faults ( not that they advertise that) is there any better places to look than gum-tree or eBay?
 
autotrader, local paper. Facespace even has people punting cars. Anywhere you like.
 
Ahh forgot about piston heads, to be perfectly honest it's squeaky bum time about buying a p38 after reading the problems people have, I do intend to trying do a lot myself, complete novice to mechanics though!! Being a plumbing & heating engineer I'm hoping basic skills will be enough :eek:
 
Bix said:
SRS isn't a common problem. Although RR recommend you replace them at (I think, memory is poor) 12 years.
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I beg to differ.

A "SRS Warning Light" can be simply triggered by a low voltage battery causing the light to come on when starting the engine.

My "SRS Light" came on, took the vehicle for a run to charge the battery reset the fault, ended up fitting a new battery and resetting the light...
 
The seller told me it is easily reset by a garage with diagnostics and doesn't come back on for a while as he had to do so for the last mot? It's also needs a new centre part to exhaust system, a rear bush and has sagging in the rear roof liner and I got him down to 1000? Still has 7 months mot & tax, body has a few niggles, but I'm don't care for cosmetics! I guess I'm forgetting I'm not looking at a showroom car and just needing someone to give me a push in the right direction
 
Problem is your not likely to find a perfect one. So try find one with niggles your happy to fix.
 
Goggztait said:
just needing someone to give me a push in the right direction
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So you want a push.....one question, well almost......how much money do you wish to invest in repairing a P38, how much spare time do you have and the most important question "How much money will you have left in your account" after you paid for the purchase of said vehicle....
 
zzr1200 said:
So you want a push.....one question, well almost......how much money do you wish to invest in repairing a P38, how much spare time do you have and the most important question "How much money will you have left in your account" after you paid for the purchase of said vehicle....
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Good question.. To be honest the last car I had was a civic type r, and haven driven a transit for the last 2 years, I'm only 25 so insurance is pretty costly so bearing all that in mind, I'm willing to pay money to repair but my biggest fear is buying then paying double the price of the car in the first year to repair! I don't do much mileage as I do have a van, it's more for fishing and camping! So yes I'm willing to pay just not thousands at once
 
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