dag019
Well-Known Member
I have made some more progress but first a question about alternator pulleys.
If you have a serpentine belt pulley how do you get it off? You need an Allen key I. The shaft to stop it turning but the pulley is too deep to use anything other than socket which then means you cannot use the Allen key. I am converting to a chest so just cut the pulley in half to be able to get a spanner on!
If you have a serpentine belt pulley how do you get it off? You need an Allen key I. The shaft to stop it turning but the pulley is too deep to use anything other than socket which then means you cannot use the Allen key. I am converting to a chest so just cut the pulley in half to be able to get a spanner on!
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Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Wedge a bar in the cooling fins.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I have done that before and ended up bending and breaking cooling fins.
This is also a genuine hella alternator that I picked up very cheaply after arguing with the company selling tit on ebay so cannot get a replacement easily if I damage it.
The "dealer" wouldn't dispatch it to me until I gave them my registration, despite having bought and paid for it at this point. I then gave them my registration, stated that it would be useless and not match and gave them a description of the vehicle ('89 110, fitted with 200tdi discovery engine etc). they then came back saying it was the wrong part so I went back saying it is an uprated alternator as I previously had fitted, am rebuilding after a fire etc. Stated I am looking for part number LE10113, which should be equivalent to Delco Remy part number DRA3589 (written in marker on the hella box), which is equivalent to Hella CA1337IR, which is what this alternator is:
All number were from google research to establish they should be equivalent's, but in reality just needed to be the correct handing and mounting to be bale to make it work. They then replied that it was not a standard part for that engine and sounded like a modification, despite me saying it was an uprated alternator, and I had to confirm I really did want that part and I really did want them to dispatch it!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Normally a good rattle gun gets them off.
Or small ratchet strap round pulley but alternator would need fitting/held so it don’t move then ratchet & shock it off
Or small ratchet strap round pulley but alternator would need fitting/held so it don’t move then ratchet & shock it off
dag019
Well-Known Member
Moan about everything to do with the alternator being difficult over, I have made other progress as well.
I have painted and refitted the bumper, which allowed me to refit refit the winch cabling to the battery box so i can complete the additional fuses and relay etc and make sure everything fits. The bull hbar requires a little welding so I will do that before refitting that. Not having the bull bar fitted will make fitting the wings and light easier as well.
I am using a synthetic rope (originally was steel) and vaguely remember reading somewhere that you should not be using roller fairlead with synthetic rope, is this correct? I am going to remove to paint and lubricate, but if it should not be used with synthetic winch line I will add a replacement to my list of parts rather than "restore" the current one.
I also manages to get the rear window back in which was a lot easier than the windscreen as it is fitted with an expansion bead to make it seal but was still not easy:
Also Now we are post christmas and royal mail have decided to do their job again I finally received the last bits needed to get the column mounted fog light switch fitted and meant I could fit my newly modified steering column cowl. I am still waiting for a couple more wiring connectors and I will be able to complete the dash switches and refit the clocks, as well as fit the raptor dash and switch gear into the centre leaving the interior finished apart from a roof lining.
I have painted and refitted the bumper, which allowed me to refit refit the winch cabling to the battery box so i can complete the additional fuses and relay etc and make sure everything fits. The bull hbar requires a little welding so I will do that before refitting that. Not having the bull bar fitted will make fitting the wings and light easier as well.
I am using a synthetic rope (originally was steel) and vaguely remember reading somewhere that you should not be using roller fairlead with synthetic rope, is this correct? I am going to remove to paint and lubricate, but if it should not be used with synthetic winch line I will add a replacement to my list of parts rather than "restore" the current one.
I also manages to get the rear window back in which was a lot easier than the windscreen as it is fitted with an expansion bead to make it seal but was still not easy:
Also Now we are post christmas and royal mail have decided to do their job again I finally received the last bits needed to get the column mounted fog light switch fitted and meant I could fit my newly modified steering column cowl. I am still waiting for a couple more wiring connectors and I will be able to complete the dash switches and refit the clocks, as well as fit the raptor dash and switch gear into the centre leaving the interior finished apart from a roof lining.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I don't have a rattle gun and I had tried a ratchet strap, strap wrench, and set of locking chain mole grips before resorting to cutting it. I think it had some from of locking compound on it ( the green on the threads) as this flacked off as it was undone.
@dag019 said: I am using a synthetic rope (originally was steel) and vaguely remember reading somewhere that you should not be using roller fairlead with synthetic rope, is this correct?
Yes. you use a 'Hawse Fairlead' rather than a 'roller' .... like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1326259297?iid=334671141362
Yes. you use a 'Hawse Fairlead' rather than a 'roller' .... like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1326259297?iid=334671141362
dag019
Well-Known Member
I have vague memories stirring now and that might be why I still have the rollers after fitting the synthetic rope. A husky has a twin bolt fairlead rather than single like your link:
So that would mean I would need to find the specific Hawse fairlead for them, a quick google now has brought up examples of huskys fitted with them where as when I fitted the rope I don't think I could find one. But Guess I need something like this one (although it is pictured with a steel rope):
dag019
Well-Known Member
It’s not just mounted on the bumper. The holes go all the way through and are threaded into the winch to securethe winch to the bumper as well.
That's an interesting design ..... my winch is bolted down to the winch bumpers floor with 4 x M14 HTS bolts.
The rope feeds off the drum through a letterbox and then the hawse ..
Heres a pic of the bumper/winch tray ....
here it is 'in' ... there is about a 30mm gap between the winch body and the 'letter box'..
I don't think that is the hawse, thats just a gude for the rope on and off the drum, the hawse sits in front of that..
dag019
Well-Known Member
You can see on the above (one of mine and one from google) that the winch sits against the front of the bumper and it bolted all the way through. It is bolted underneath as well but it is the lack of a gap at the front that mean syou need a specific fairlead.
I had assumed my previous pic was a hawse as you can get the winch with the fairlead bolted to the front rather than in a bumper
Yours is deffo 'specific' ..... here you go https://goodwinch.com/product/aluminium-hawses-4-bolt-for-husky/
dag019
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I had seen that one. I I think it is what is fitted to the first pic in my above post. But it comes with the horrible engraving! Who wants that. Much rather have a plain one.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Sorry NLA?
The drivers side it some old alubutyl sound proofing that I had left over from when I did it last time around to my old bulkhead, the passenger side is this: link. There should be some better pictures of the sound proofing further back in the thread. The kilmat is the nearest I could find to what I used previously as it is the thicker 100mil rather than the thinner 50 or 80 most of it comes in. From using both it is basically the same thing but the kilmat is a slightly different texture when you cut it. I have previously done the seat box, tunnel, underside floor panels, and now done the replacement bulkhead up to the top of the lower dash. I am not sure if it actually makes a huge difference, it is along time since I did it first time around, and I did it section at a time then over a couple of months so didn't get a true before and after comparison. I am sure it will help and but every little helps in trying to "refine" the interior noise when you are dealing with thin sheet metal and nothing else between you and the engine, drivetrain and tyre noise.
