Hmmm, pretty tight I reckon.
Is the Landy rolling? And do you have space to push it back?
You could put the crane on timber, like a few decking boards. Lift the engine while pushing Landy back.
Might be easier to take the bumper off :rolleyes:
How did you get the engine out?
 
How did you get the engine out?

The engine is not out yet, I got a second engine to give alight rebuild to and swap over to get the vehicle running while I do a more in depth rebuild on the fire damaged engine.


is there enough slack on the winch wiring to save disconnecting?

I do not think so, that is more what I am trying to avoid rather than removing the bolts for the bumper. it is having to disconnect the wiring as well that makes it an annoying job.
 
The engine is not out yet, I got a second engine to give alight rebuild to and swap over to get the vehicle running while I do a more in depth rebuild on the fire damaged engine.
Got ya :)
Taking the wheels off and lowering it on to low axle stands seems like a good shout. You'd have to make sure you got all of the awkward bell housing bolts out before you dropped it.
 
While I am waiting to borrow a friends engine crane (collecting at the weekend) I am going to try and fit up and bleed out so they are functional the brakes and clutch. I have the clutch hydraulics fully fitted up from the copper pipe between master and flexi that runs across the top of the bulkhead and down the passenger footwell. Could someone with an lt77 gearbox (slave on the passenger side) please take a picture of this pipe routing for me, and how it is secured to the bulkhead. I currently have a bare bulkhead so have nothing to reference from and plan on making up my own pipe rather than buying preformed.

Also I have just put in a very expensive parts order for brake master and bias valve (thank you @miktdish for confirming on my brake thread (link)) and again currently have nothing to reference off for the pipe routing. I am planning on making up my own brake pipes and just need to confirm the routing as all I currently have in place and undamaged from the fire is the bias valve to rear brake line.
 
Despite the heat today I managed a very productive day working early morning before Work and late evening after work to avoid the worst of the weather. I have now removed the burnt engine.

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The rebuilt engine is ready to fit but I am planning on dinitrol the chassis while it is all exposed with no engine. So hoping to get that done this week ready to fit the engine next weekend. I have pressure washed everything ready for Treatment today. And with this heat it will bone dry by the end of tomorrow!

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This progress however brings me to a question. I have dinitrol 3125HS cavity wax. I am planning on treating the inside of the chassis with this. What is the best thing for the outside of the chassis? Will this be suitable or Is there a better dinitrol product designed for the outside. Because it is old deposit washing it down it is not degreased well enough to paint so I am looking for a underseal/wax type protection that will stick to an old (galv) oilyish chassis.
 
This progress however brings me to a question. I have dinitrol 3125HS cavity wax. I am planning on treating the inside of the chassis with this. What is the best thing for the outside of the chassis? Will this be suitable or Is there a better dinitrol product designed for the outside. Because it is old deposit washing it down it is not degreased well enough to paint so I am looking for a underseal/wax type protection that will stick to an old (galv) oilyish chassis.
Looking good :cool:
I wouldn't be worrying too much with it being a galv chassis. I didn't put anything on mine.
The shock turrets look solid, but rusty. It might be worth swapping those out while it's all apart. If you do, it's a hell of a lot easier to get the washer and nut back on top of the shocker with the engine in.
 
Looking good :cool:
I wouldn't be worrying too much with it being a galv chassis. I didn't put anything on mine.
The shock turrets look solid, but rusty. It might be worth swapping those out while it's all apart. If you do, it's a hell of a lot easier to get the washer and nut back on top of the shocker with the engine in.
My chassis is quite old now despite being galv so was going to take the opportunity to add some extra protection and get some more life from it as similarly I didn’t do anything to not when fitted. Dinitrol 4941 seems to be the product for external underbody treatment. But I am trying to work out if it is a wax or an old fashioned under seal (which I don’t want)
The shock turrets are (were) Brit part galv ones. But the galv was incredibly poor (more top slag than a proper coating) when fitted and clearly hasn’t lasted. I have some tubular ones to fit as I need to do the shock bushes after the fire anyway.
 
Dinitrol 4941 seems to be the product for external underbody treatment. But I am trying to work out if it is a wax or an old fashioned under seal (which I don’t want)

I use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 Cavity wax for, er, cavities, :rolleyes: , and Dynax UC for external high wear areas:) - both are very good IME, and both are waxes, nothing like underseal, which really should have been banned before it was invented IMO :mad:
 
LR13.JPG LR5.JPG Treat the inside of your chassis, you can not see what is going on in there. I live by the sea where salt carrying storms are common and even the tubes well galvened gates will give up in the end often rotting from the inside. I recon salty damp gets in through the drain holes.
My 1990 Ninety's chassis is still pretty good due to yearly treatments of engine oil and diesel mix inside and out.
Plus one on the above with regards underseal, horrible stuff. If viewing a vehicle and it has that stuff on I walk straight away.
 
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I use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 Cavity wax for, er, cavities, :rolleyes: , and Dynax UC for external high wear areas:) - both are very good IME, and both are waxes, nothing like underseal, which really should have been banned before it was invented IMO :mad:

I have dinitrol 3125HS cavity wax left over which I have used on the chassis before and used to fill my door frames and the replacement bulkhead (earlier in this thread) so I am happy with that for the internals and is one less thing to buy. It is the exterior I am looking for. I will look into the Dynax as it states it is a wax. The dinitrol 4941 sounds very similar (having now found the tech sheet) as a hard waxy film finish. The main difference seems to be the bilt hamber is clear rather than black. What did you use to apply it can it be applied with the same undercoating gun I have for dinitrol? (thread)

Plus one on the above with regards underseal, horrible stuff.

I defeinitly, do not want underseal, am wilfully avoiding that, I want a wax product but modern waxoil is very poor quality so am looking for modern alternatives of what people have had good experience with.
 
What did you use to apply it can it be applied with the same undercoating gun I have for dinitrol? (thread)

Dynax UC comes in aerosols or bulk - the bulk I apply with a cheapo (Clark) paraffin gun* at about 50-60 psi - the aerosols are brilliant for touch up use - or small areas to save cleaning the gun out..

* = the same as the one pictured in post #17 of your thread - the tip takes a bit of adjustment to get the thing to work properly, but once you know, you know.... Plus always worth warming the product first... unless you were spraying yesterday, when I think cooling the stuff might have been necessary :D:D :rolleyes:.

UC is a brownish translucent wax - IME it is as abrasion resistant for underbody areas as BH claim - I have also used Dintrol stuff - ( their high temperature clear wax is brilliant ) - IMHO Dinitrol and BH products are equally brilliant - I.E. exceptionally toxic to tin worms :D
 
Finally got around to fitting the new pane of glass I had cut for the military door tops. Never did find a supplier anywhere for panels so took the other side to the local glass supplier and they sent it off for a copy to be cut.

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Below is a quick write up for how to remove and replace the glass in a military/early 110 all aluminum door top. It is far easier imo than a series door top to work on.

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In the corners of the lower channel is a single rivet, this needs drilling out. There are four screws along the bottom of the runner underneath the window glass (three in my case as one had previously been snapped). To remove these screws you need to slide both windows to one end and then repeat slide in the other direction.

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the glass and runner channel can then be removed from the frame. it may be a little stiff to lift over the locking mechanism, I managed to remove it with no problem but needed to remove the lock for refitting although you should not have to according to the manual.

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While it is all apart this is the perfect opportunity to replace the felt runners. You can get kits with plastic runners that should last forever but the felt is very cheap (woolies trim: link) and does not require the door to be stripped to replace. I have done it several times previously fully assembled and has felt left over so took this opportunity to replace again. It just folds in half and then slots into the channel grove. there are lips on the top edges you need to make sure the felt s sitting beneath to ensure it remains in place.

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I had to remove the broken glass form the lower window runner. this is just a pressure fit in the channel with a u-shaped piece of rubber to grip the runner and glass firmly and keep it all in place. Once again i could not find a replacement for this piece of rubber although i suspect I would have used a piece of inner tube and on reassembly it was a little loose so I ran a very thin smear of instant gasket along the glass before refitting and that held secure once set.

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Having fitted the lower runner to the new piece of glass and I refitted both windows to the lower channel and placed the top edges into the newly felted frame channels. At this point i could not get the lower channel to go over the locking mechanism even when fully unlocked so I removed the lock mechanism.

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The manual and all instruction i have found state that it should not be necessary to remove the lock to remove the glass and I did manage to remove it with no issues. I may just not have tried hard enough on reassembly but as it is only held in place by four rivets and the lock mechanism is plastic I did not want to risk breaking anything. With the lock removed everything slotted back into place with no effort or issue, A quick smear of instant gasket around the locking mechanism before refitting and 6 rivet later the door is fully reassembled with a new pane of glass and ready to be painted and refitted to the door. Although you shouldn't need sealant on the locking mechanism because of the way the door top drains I have in the past ended up with water running into the cab through the lock mechanism so previously ran a bead of silicone around the outside of it. As it was removed I thought it would be a neater job to seal the interface rather than externally add sealant.

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Front half of the chassis has now been waxed both inside and outside. Went with the dinitrol 4941 in the end as that would arrive ready for the weekend. My technique is not clearly not very good (or the cheap gun, or both) and it is definitely thicker in places than others. Should be set “hard” in 96 hours but was already thick and tacky by the time I left. Hopefully will be able to fit the engine this week, and I have had the notification that my wiring loom is finally ready for shipping.

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Managed to get the engine fitted today. Not too difficult but made a lot harder than it needed to be by the fact the engine crane I borrowed (pictured earlier) clearly has a slow leak that I didn’t notice when removing the engine. It would slowly lower itself as you were trying to line things up which made things far more challenging when working on your own.

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My next plan of action is to get the rad refitted and plumb in the coolant system and then test fire it to make sure it runs. I am happy with the jump starting procedure and running it from a Jerry can as I have done similar before with an old series 2.25d that was bought blond and untested to be be fitted to a friends series 1:



However I don’t really want to run the power steering pump dry (not a problem on the series engine), I do not currently have the pipe work for this so unlike the coolant system cannot just connect it all up. Is it possible to run it in a loop though a bucket of hydraulic fluid or am I worrying too much and it will be fine run dry for a bit of a run up and test fire of the engine?
 
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Managed to get the engine fitted today. Not too difficult but made a lot harder than it needed to be by the fact the engine crane I borrowed (pictured earlier) clearly has a slow leak that I didn’t notice when removing the engine. It would slowly lower itself as you were trying to line things up which made things far more challenging when working on your own.

View attachment 270175

My next plan of action is to get the rad refitted and plumb in the coolant system and then test fire it to make sure it runs. I am happy with the jump starting procedure and running it from a Jerry can as I have done similar before with an old series 2.25d that was bought blond and untested to be be fitted to a friends series 1 (link). However I don’t really want to run the power steering pump dry (not a problem on the series engine), I do not currently have the pipe work for this so unlike the coolant system cannot just connect it all up. Is it possible to run it in a loop though a bucket of hydraulic fluid or am I worrying too much and it will be fine run dry for a bit of a run up and test fire of the engine?
Just don’t put the power steering belt on(
Is it a 200tdi?)


Edit… ignore me .. it’s the alternator belt you can take off :oops:
 
Yes disco engine not defender setup. That was my first thought but want the water pump running.

Pair of the missus tights but bypass the PS pulley should get you enough running time.

Don't Halford's do some sort of "emergency fan belt" to fit any length?

J
 

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