dag019
Well-Known Member
It is a Fordson Standard N. Was bought by the father of the chap who owns the farm in the 50's (I think) when they were farming in Wales and moved when they moved to Warwickshire. It still runs and drives and wears it original green paint (some of it, a lot is now "rust" coloured). He is slowly trying to clean it up and prevent further deterioration but it is a long slow process. I am sure I have some pictures of it when it is not tucked under its cover, will try and dig them out.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Clutch pipe… held to bulkhead via plastic clips…. Change these to rubber covered P clips.
I use them self drilling screws for these jobs
I use them self drilling screws for these jobs
dag019
Well-Known Member
Pclips it is then I will measure up and get some stainless ones. I have previously riveted on when using these are stainless screws or ali rivets better for going into galv steel on something that I would hope not to have to change again!
dag019
Well-Known Member
Update time, although not too much has been done in terms of large things (as some of you may be aware I was heavily distracted by getting an MGA ready for the brother in laws wedding: thread) there has a been a lot a prep work ready for larger things and lots of expensive parts ordered!
I have a kit for t-seals and rear crank seal so as soon as I get the engine mounted on its stand (hopefully this weekend I plan on doing these. once this is done I can fit the clutch (ordered) and the engine is ready to be swapped into the chassis. once this has been done I can start the trying to plumb it back in. I need to work out how to join had plastic fuel pipe as they have melted off halfway up the bulkhead and I really really do not want to have to replace the whole length back to the tank if I can avoid it.
I have also made some progress in working out which wiring loom I need to order but will discuss that in the next post.
Similarly I now have a painted windscreen frame and new windscreen so will hopefully get them put together over the weekend. It has been a while since I fitted a windscreen and I have only done it when the frame has been fitted to the vehicle but an old boy was telling me the easiest way to do a windscreen is to have it on the floor with the frame on top and pull your sting upwards into the frame like that. Has anyone tired this method? I will feed back how successful I am as I need to paint the windscreen hinges before I can refit the frame to the vehicle and do it the "normal" way.
I have done some smaller things as well so all the pedals are now fitted, the rear lights are back in, and I am hoping to get the rear door fitted over the weekend.
While this has been going on I have done some more painting. I just have the drivers side to do, both door and the bonnet and all the body work will be complete.
I have a kit for t-seals and rear crank seal so as soon as I get the engine mounted on its stand (hopefully this weekend I plan on doing these. once this is done I can fit the clutch (ordered) and the engine is ready to be swapped into the chassis. once this has been done I can start the trying to plumb it back in. I need to work out how to join had plastic fuel pipe as they have melted off halfway up the bulkhead and I really really do not want to have to replace the whole length back to the tank if I can avoid it.
I have also made some progress in working out which wiring loom I need to order but will discuss that in the next post.
Similarly I now have a painted windscreen frame and new windscreen so will hopefully get them put together over the weekend. It has been a while since I fitted a windscreen and I have only done it when the frame has been fitted to the vehicle but an old boy was telling me the easiest way to do a windscreen is to have it on the floor with the frame on top and pull your sting upwards into the frame like that. Has anyone tired this method? I will feed back how successful I am as I need to paint the windscreen hinges before I can refit the frame to the vehicle and do it the "normal" way.
I have done some smaller things as well so all the pedals are now fitted, the rear lights are back in, and I am hoping to get the rear door fitted over the weekend.
While this has been going on I have done some more painting. I just have the drivers side to do, both door and the bonnet and all the body work will be complete.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I know I have a separate thread (link) asking this question but I am going to add it to this thread as as well as it is part of the rebuild.
It has been a long time since I last fitted a windscreen but I am happy with the principal to do it myself (lots of lube and some string). What I cannot remember is which bit of the seal goes where! All other threads seem to just say "put the seal on the windscreen".
The seal I have appears to have three grooves, I know one goes on the windscreen, one closes up when fitted and one is what the string goes into and eventual sits around the frame. Below are picture of both sides of the seal which I have numbered the grooves. If someone could be so kind as to let me know which bit goes in which grove that would be very much appreciated.
It has been a long time since I last fitted a windscreen but I am happy with the principal to do it myself (lots of lube and some string). What I cannot remember is which bit of the seal goes where! All other threads seem to just say "put the seal on the windscreen".
The seal I have appears to have three grooves, I know one goes on the windscreen, one closes up when fitted and one is what the string goes into and eventual sits around the frame. Below are picture of both sides of the seal which I have numbered the grooves. If someone could be so kind as to let me know which bit goes in which grove that would be very much appreciated.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I have also made some progress in working out which wiring loom I need to purchase. Although autosparks ignored my question about a bespoke rear loom with a 300tdi plug on the front end and the old Lucas bullet for a TD on the rear they did get back to me about the difference between the 300tdi main looms. Seems the age has less to do with things compared to the accessories fitted. So because I do not have an alarm or immobilizer but do have a dim dip circuit there are three loom that are suitable for a 300tdi:
LR604
LR606
LR607
From these three option I am leaning towards the LR604. Does any one have any reason why that loom would not be the best option here?
LR604
- Has seatbelt switch warning light.
- Has rear heated screen relay in dash position.
- Has original 300TDI Radio/Cassette connector.
- Has oil transmission temperature unit/warning light circuit.
- At the relay/fuse board, has relays for starter, headlamp, wiper delay and hazards.
- Provisional connector for A/C. (At the relay/fuse board position)
LR606
- Has NO seatbelt switch warning light.
- Has rear heated screen relay amongst the fuse/relay board, NOT at the dash position.
- NO original 300TDI Radio/Cassette connector.
- Has NO oil transmission temperature unit/warning light circuit.
- At the relay/fuse board, has relays for starter, headlamp, wiper delay, hazards and heated rear screen as noted above.
- NO provisional connector for A/C.
LR607
- Has NO seatbelt switch warning light.
- Has provisional connector for rear heated screen relay at the dash position.
- NO original 300TDI Radio/Cassette connector.
- Has NO oil transmission temperature unit/warning light circuit.
- At the relay/fuse board, has relays for starter, headlamp, wiper delay, hazards.
- NO provisional connector for A/C.
From these three option I am leaning towards the LR604. Does any one have any reason why that loom would not be the best option here?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Go for the 604 as it has the oil warning light
dag019
Well-Known Member
For the transmission temperature? I am assuming I would then need a temperature sensor as well which I currently do not have, would need to dig out the wiring diagram but hopefully that would be all that is needed to get the circuit running correctly. Is it gearbox or transfer box, which one gets hotter?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Gear box gets hotter. You can get a conversion plate that replaces the inspection side cover. It has fins for cooling & I think has more oil capacity.
There are a few sensors you can bond onto the gearbox.
Unsure if @Bobsticle has knowledge of any of these
dag019
Well-Known Member
That definitely sounds interesting, I already have that for the transfer box and that has the larger capacity and cooling fins so If I can do the same for the gearbox (lt77) that would be great.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I rely on Lucas agricultural early warning sensors. If it’s smoking, turn it off. If it’s smoking and glowing, turn it off and add water. If it’s smoking, glowing and making a high pitched noise, run.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Well I managed to get the clutch and flywheel off the replacemnt engien remove the bell housing and get it mounted to the stand. Everything is a lot easier when you have a forklift to play with. but this was a good result for today
I have a pair of finished wings, just need to fit some lights to them and they are complete and ready to be tucked away until things are nearly finished and they can be refitted to the vehicle.
And I have managed to get the rear door refitted. i did not have time to adjust the latch but it look s like it just need the washers used as spaced removing for the "new" door to line up and close correctly.
I have a pair of finished wings, just need to fit some lights to them and they are complete and ready to be tucked away until things are nearly finished and they can be refitted to the vehicle.
And I have managed to get the rear door refitted. i did not have time to adjust the latch but it look s like it just need the washers used as spaced removing for the "new" door to line up and close correctly.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I remembered to take some pictures for you when I was there today, including the old information board for it.
Very similar to one I saw next to an empty house in North Wales a few years ago:
They last surprisingly well when left out in the weather.
dag019
Well-Known Member
There is a good chance that will run again. Even if the engine is seized they are so simple they are easy to rebuild. As long as the back end is still sealed rather than full of water will almost certainly be salvageable. You want to find out who abandoned it and how much they want for it to be removed!
I think I've got quite enough projects to keep me busy for the moment thanks. If anybody's interested the grid reference is SH 759 269 and the house is called Cadwgan on the OS map. I've not been past for a while so I couldn't guarantee it's still there.
dag019
Well-Known Member
That is not a valid excuse! So have I but if they were willing to part with it for the right price I would be down with a trailer tomorrow!
Well, if I took home every vehicle I felt sorry for I'd rapidly run out of space.
Someone who has lived their life according to this principle posts Youtube videos here https://www.youtube.com/user/coldwarmotors 'Sick cars for a sick planet'.
When I was very young there was a comic aimed at pre-school children called 'Teddy Bear'
Most interesting from my point of view, even as a three year old was a character called uncle Fred, depicted in the illustration above. Uncle Fred was a car enthusiast who had filled his house with cars, and lived in a tent on the lawn. He seemed to be a man who had got his priorities right. There were aspects of the stories which suggested that someone on the editorial team had experienced life with a car nut. They seem to have got heir hands on quite a nice Daimler Dart, possibly one of the early ones with the small sidelamp/indicator clusters.
