Pre combustion chamber come adrift?

I think safest bit is take the head off for a look see.
 
i thought it might have mentioned the 12J prefix , E looks odd and not in this list. but if it is the 12J it confirms its an early engine and how to time it is explained in the manual here.

have you the little window to spot EP on the flywheel outer ring, also where is the screwed hole for lock pin , is it same location as shown on diagram

https://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/

1723623206001.png



1723623305028.png


1723623623378.png
 
this ios on my 84 2286 with timing chain ,but i used dti to find TDC on piston 1 with head off , my pointer was missing so made a new one to check tdc through the flywheel housing cover

then ypu can also use the dti to find max opening on no1 exhaust cam to check marks


1723623972626.jpeg


1723624004276.jpeg
 
steve2286w said:
i thought it might have mentioned the 12J prefix , E looks odd and not in this list. but if it is the 12J it confirms its an early engine and how to time it is explained in the manual here.

have you the little window to spot EP on the flywheel outer ring, also where is the screwed hole for lock pin , is it same location as shown on diagram

https://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/

View attachment 323780


View attachment 323781

View attachment 323782
Click to expand...
Hi,
Everything about this engine is exactly as the manual and pictures you show.
I attempted the timing for a later engine with the lock pin on the flywheel mark (it is about 1.5 inches from the window and is just past TDC cylinder 1.)
When the camshaft dot is lined up with its arrow valve 1 is fully open. If I lock the flywheel and then put the belt on it gets stuck somehow....I'm thinking that maybe the valve clearances are somehow incorrect ??

I have now removed the cylinder head completely to verify everything is OK.
The head looks fine with no evidence of serious piston contact, though there was a slight mark on piston2 where valve 3 had possibly impacted it, though it was very slight and only visible because I was looking for any signs!.
I checked the camshaft rotation and movement of the pushrod and all seems OK to me (I'm not fully up on engines but there is nothing broken so I'm assuming it is correct.)

One thing I have not been able to do was line up the arrow and yhe punch mark on the crank shaft and still use the pin!! What I'm saying is I have not tried it with 3 dots lined up with 3 arrows (the crank dot is nowhere near TDC or EP) not sure if this makes a difference- I will put the head back on and redo the valve clearances before I try again.
Thanks
 
you dont use the flywheel locking key on your engine ,this might be your problem , have you the locking tool for pump step 13 above for early engines
 
steve2286w said:
you dont use the flywheel locking key on your engine ,this might be your problem , have you the locking tool for pump step 13 above for early engines
Click to expand...
Hi,
There is no reference to 12j or 13j anywhere on this engine! Only the engine number beginning with E

Yes I have the pump locking tool as well as the flywheel locking tool.

My flywheel does not have EP marked on the flywheel mark as shown in the book, just the mark! Also I do not have a pointer in the window (I doubt it ever had). When I put the cylinder 1 at TDC the mark is exactly where the pointer would be (according to books) not where the locking tool would put it. Now I have the head off I can test....at TDC the mark is in the window - with tool locked in the crank is 2 teeth clockwise!

I have set the distribution pump using the tool as per the manual so that should be the pump timing correct for either method.

When I replace the head and the rocker assembly I will see if it rotates all the way!

I will regrind all the valves (just for completeness) and refit the head tomorrow

Cheers
 
Wonder if it's a sherpa engine? Almost identical to a landrover 2.5 but the injector pump is in a different position, higher up or lower down, I forget, but the timing belt is, I think, different and shouldn't fit properly.
 
109Santana said:
I
Click to expand...
I have no idea but everything in the manual is identical, all the pictures are the same .

When I reassemble everything I am going to try lining up all 3 dots on the three arrows and see what happens!
I've tried everything else by the manual and it doesn't work.
I can't reassemble fully just yet as ordered new pushrods as a couple of mine (valves 3 & 6) were slightly bent, probably not going to make a difference but they came straight!! Post is very bad in spain so will have next week.
 
I don't recall the engine number being where you say but it was nearly 25 years ago. I recall it being on the horizontal surface of the BLOCK, which looking at your earlier pic is below number 1 glowplug roughly. The paint may have filled it in.
 
109Santana said:
Ok....I don't have one of those......is it 100% necessary?
Click to expand...
Useful and not expensive really. They are good for measuring discrepancies that you can't see by eye. As an example, I had a car with a slight misfire and after trying everything to cure it I had to remove the head after number 4 showed a much lower compression than the other 3 cylinders. Nothing obvious was seen but I ground in all the valves anyway and reassembled- no differance whatsoever. Then I set up a dti on number 4 and noticed the piston didn't come up as far as the others, wasn't much in it but on strip down the con rod was bent.
They are good for checking disc brake warping , bent valves, pushrod etc but you need a V block for the last two.
 
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