S

Snakfish

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While changing my sparks plugs on V6 3.0L Ford Ranger, I noticed an extreme
amount of rust build up on the spark plugs and block. It took an amazing
amount of force to break free the #1, 2, and 3 plugs, w/ rust coming off
the heads of the plugs. When I went to take the #5 plug off, it broke
flush w/ the block, leaving me wondering how to get the rest of the plug
out w/ out ruining my engine. Is the only way to get this plug out would
be to remove the header? How do you prevent rust build up in the V6 Ford
Engine, especially in an area where rain and puddles are a normal (Puerto
Rico). If you have any ideas, please let me know. Again, I busted the #5
Spark Plug flush w/ the header and don't have anyway to pull it out. My
only solution is to pull the header, but I know what a job that can be.
Please submit suggestions. Thanks.

 
could you be a bit more specific? if you have broke the plug flush with the head??? then surely the center of the plug has already dropped into the cylinder. so even if you did get the remainder out you would still have to remove the head.
 
Snakfish wrote:

> While changing my sparks plugs on V6 3.0L Ford Ranger, I noticed an extreme
> amount of rust build up on the spark plugs and block. It took an amazing
> amount of force to break free the #1, 2, and 3 plugs, w/ rust coming off
> the heads of the plugs. When I went to take the #5 plug off, it broke
> flush w/ the block, leaving me wondering how to get the rest of the plug
> out w/ out ruining my engine. Is the only way to get this plug out would
> be to remove the header? How do you prevent rust build up in the V6 Ford
> Engine, especially in an area where rain and puddles are a normal (Puerto
> Rico). If you have any ideas, please let me know. Again, I busted the #5
> Spark Plug flush w/ the header and don't have anyway to pull it out. My
> only solution is to pull the header, but I know what a job that can be.
> Please submit suggestions. Thanks.
>


First get some good penetrating oil. My favorite is PB Blaster, but Liquid
wrench works pretty good, too. WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. Spray it over the
broken plug and the ones you havn't started on yet.
Did you break the metal casing? If so, you'll have to remover the exhaust
manifold/header just to get to it. You may end up removing the head.
Once the penetrating oil has worked in for a few day, you could try a pair of
vice grips on whatever stub is remaining. You could also try welding a nut to the
end of the broken plug. Some people have had success by use a flat screwdriveing
and tapping the broken part out with a hammer.

Once you finally get it out, be sure and use liberal amounts of anti-seize lube
on the new threads. Take the plugs out ever 2,000 miles or so. Clean them, apply
new lube, and re-install.


--
..boB
On Order: 2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

 
another thing that can cause a plug to seize is if you put long reach plugs into a short reach head. the end of the thread stick through into the combustion chamber and the threads get filled up with carbon.
this happend to a oldsmobile engine i had once and short of taking the head off the only way to remove them without breaking them was to bung some brake fluid down the carb while running at high rpm. this burned the carbon off and the plugs came out very easily. but as you're sure yours are rusted in this don't apply but it is something to be aware of.
 

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