I dont know much about td5s im afraid but you say the head was skimmed then it sounded like a bag of nails, 2 thoughts: I had a 300 that sounded like death for a long long time but it pulled ok and didnt smoke - it was a washer rattling about with a loose crank shaft bolt! Tightened it up and it just kept coming loose again, replaced it (with one from another engine) and it stayed tight ever since! Secondly, if the head is removed on a td5 engine do you need to set tappets as with tdi? Anyone know? I wouldnt be suprised if the guy had sorta not known about that given your estimation of him!
 
Jezath said:
thanks for the advice guys.. the td5 doesent have a woodruff key on the crank pulley, it does on the timing chain sprocket but not the pulley.. looks like the 339 lbft torque is all that keeps it from spinning free from the crankshaft.. maybe its tapered too but ill see that when i have the pulley off.
Click to expand...


Are you sure the crankshaft pulley AND the timing chain sprocket don't SHARE the Woodruff key? Like they BOTH overlap the woodruff key?

CharlesY
 
yeah mate i had the pulley off enough today to see theres no woodruff key for it, double checked the haynes manual too.

For the pulley though I will put up some pics of it hopefully tommorow.. Oh man I so hope the bag of nails sound was from the crankshaft bolt..

What are tappets and how do ya set em? ill look through the haynes manual...

I hope this pulley is reusable.. But if needs must after ya look at pics and say i need a new one ill just have to grit my teeth and buy one..

Yeah I tried to follow that handy guide but im scared of breaking something if i try to force it much more.. the bolt is totally out and touching the radiator and i still cant wiggle it free.. scared of pulling on the radiator incase i break something :S or should i just man up and give it a right old Tug??
 
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tappets are hydrolic and adjust themselves, before refitting its a good idea to change the front crankshaft oil seal as it will probably get damaged removing the pulley, and you dont want to get it all together and find its leaking oil
 
Jezath said:
yeah mate i had the pulley off enough today to see theres no woodruff key for it, double checked the haynes manual too.

For the pulley though I will put up some pics of it hopefully tommorow.. Oh man I so hope the bag of nails sound was from the crankshaft bolt..

What are tappets and how do ya set em? ill look through the haynes manual...

I hope this pulley is reusable.. But if needs must after ya look at pics and say i need a new one ill just have to grit my teeth and buy one..

Yeah I tried to follow that handy guide but im scared of breaking something if i try to force it much more.. the bolt is totally out and touching the radiator and i still cant wiggle it free.. scared of pulling on the radiator incase i break something :S or should i just man up and give it a right old Tug??
Click to expand...


The guide tells / shows you the bolt won't come out on its own, you have to bring the bolt AND the pulley out together, placing a thin sheet of metal in front of the rad to protect it is also shown
 
Urban Panzer, I have just followed the link and read your very helpful guide on replacing the crank pulley and was struck by your description of it sounding like a 'marble rattle' as I have this sometimes on my TD5 Manual.

It happened yesterday when I pulled up at a junction but my 'marble rattle' is effected by whether the clutch is depressed or not (when depressed, doesn't happen) and speeds up if the engine revs increase, is this something else? I have just looked down at my crank pulley with the engine running and it's really vibrating (quite a blur) is this normal?

Cheers
 
broadoakboy said:
Urban Panzer, I have just followed the link and read your very helpful guide on replacing the crank pulley and was struck by your description of it sounding like a 'marble rattle' as I have this sometimes on my TD5 Manual.

It happened yesterday when I pulled up at a junction but my 'marble rattle' is affected by whether the clutch is depressed or not (when depressed, doesn't happen) and speeds up if the engine revs increase, is this something else? I have just looked down at my crank pulley with the engine running and it's really vibrating (quite a blur) is this normal?

Cheers
Click to expand...

When the clutch is pressed down, the whole flywheel and CRANKSHAFT are pressed forward hard against the half-circle THRUST WASHERS in the block at the centre main bearing (usually), number 3 in a TD5. This USUALLY helps to reduce rattles. When the clutch is released, the crankshaft will (as in WILL) move back a little and allow free space between it and the thrust washers so oil can get in there. Rattles may start again.

However, the marble rattle is more likely the CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING having all its slack taken up, and not rattling. This is very common, and the thing is much nearer the driver than the front of the engine.


The crankshaft pulley is another matter. It is THREE SEPARATE PIECES which should be bonded together by tough rubber and three bolts.
The thing is a TORSIONAL VIBRATION DAMPER, and plays a big part in reducing high frequency to-and-fro torsion in the crankshaft, making it smoother and less likely to suffer a crankshaft fatigue failure. If the bonding rubber perishes, the outer "flywheel ring" may come adrift and cause trouble. Check it - the outer ring should feel totally secure, but it is mounted on tough rubber so you may be able to move it a little.






CharlesY
 

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CharlesY said:
However, the marble rattle is more likely the CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING having all its slack taken up, and not rattling. This is very common, and the thing is much nearer the driver than the front of the engine.


CharlesY
Click to expand...


or the input shaft bearings on the gearbox.
didnt want to say it yet, but as its been brought up i have.

can you play tunes on it by feathering the clutch lightly? (alter the tone with just weight of foot on clutch etc)
 
Yes I can 'play' tunes, especially first thing in the morning when reversing out of the drive, I can hold the clutch in certain places and really make it whine. It never does it when fully in gear.

The Dual Mass fly wheel and Clutch were replaced 8 months ago as it did it before and I was told it was a knackered release bearing (made of copper or brass, sound right??).
3 days after getting the Disco back the sound came back and its done it ever since, i've taken her back twice and he replaced the clutch as he thought it was a faulty part but it still did it.

I've learnt to put up with the whine first thing in the morning but now the death rattle has developed, it sounds DREADFUL, REALLY BAD. I cant make it do it and there seams to be no trend to what makes it happen.

Is it dangerous, should I still be driving?

Sorry for highjacking this thread!!
 
imo gearbox input shaft.
check correct lube an level.
it will probably not make a difference.
it may last ages, may not!
not overly helpful, i would keep my eye out for a replacement gearbox. swap boxes either when you get chance or when the bearings collapse. (first would be easier, as if it turns out to be a bum box you buy, the bearings can be sorted in your original box. or the bum box if this feels better, but it would mean takin it out twice!)
 
Ok, so its not a good idea to reuse this same pulley if it only has 2 moutnings for the damper holes?

I have been snooping around and ive found a used pulley going for 30 pounds.. is it advisable to buy a used pulley? i know this is an amazing price, almost too good to be true? what you think? its from a 4x4 breakers yard..
 
Jezath said:
Ok, so its not a good idea to reuse this same pulley if it only has 2 moutnings for the damper holes?

I have been snooping around and ive found a used pulley going for 30 pounds.. is it advisable to buy a used pulley? i know this is an amazing price, almost too good to be true? what you think? its from a 4x4 breakers yard..
Click to expand...


Go look at it. If it looks sound, buy it.

CharlesY
 
hi stop working on the car tow it to the garage contact trading standards as under the sale of goods it should be fit for purpose as this is not put your complaint in writing & give them 14 days to reply if no reply its off to court this happen to me & i got the car fixed & money on top :D
 
thanks charlesY and tyler..

Update, Have found a local garage who will loan me the torque wrench to do up the crank pulley bolt :) couple quid deposit :) AWESOME!!! this dude made my day :) as for the damper bolts i dont mind buying a small torque wrench to do those up :)

All i have to do is remember to ask the guy if he has a tool to counterhold the pulley which will save me making one :)
 
just an update.. I tremoved the pulley totally today... was going to take the intercooler out, for the life of me guys i couldent get it out.. after i released the intake and outake hoses on it.. and undoing the mountings... it still wouldent come out due to the sides of the radiator preventing it.. So what I did was i redbolted it to the radiator, then released the top hose and bottom hose.. left the 3/4 inch hoses on it and pulled it up and laid it on the head while i took of the pulley :) the pulley is in no good shape to be put back on.. Ill put up pics but tbh its knackered even i can see that..

Reasoning behind this is only two bolt mountings remain on the pulley, the other one is just umm not there... The only thing thats there where it should be is a really **** arc weld that must have cut into the pulley but not the mounting, this welding, whenever it was done has contributed to the softening and decay of the rubber, the pulley itself is solid with no movement within it, yet u can see the rubber has pulled away a bit from the bore and cracked etc due to the v.high heat arc welding produces.. Getting a reconditioned one in within a week, then YES!!! time to put it back together rembering where all the hoses and mounting bolts go for the radiator etc..

Now will this have affected the timing at all???
 
stick us a pic up of the pulley.
it should'nt affect the timing, but interested to see how much heat went into it.
 
Picture33.jpg

Picture32.jpg

Picture31.jpg

Picture30.jpg


sorry i took this with my webcam on 4mb 1024x768, best it can do... still not very good at these sort of pictures. This is the areas u will want to look at on the crank pulley i removed... Madness huh?? or am i overeacting and i could just stick this back on??
 
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Also the crankshaft bolt was covered in oil.... so i take it i should spend the 4 quid while its all open and buy the front crankshaft oil seal?
 
first thing, someones gonna take the p1ss on the size o them pics!

not being familiar with td5 front pulleys, i cant comment too much.

what do the lugs secure?

.......

buy the one for £30.
 
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