gstuart · Jul 23, 2023

Wished to first say a massive thks @lynall for the great idea of injecting some brake fluid in behind the piston rubber , neighbour got the wheels off / on for me , alas only worked for a few days so looks like I’ll be replacing my calipers , watching the pistons move I could see they weren’t smooth so to be honest won’t bother rebuilding them as been there done that

looking around a set of 4 x calipers are around £200 , for a bit extra I can get a complete brake kit around £350 , think I’ll more than likely go that route so then it’s done and dusted , already has 8 x new brake hoses , current discs do have a lip on the edge , slider pins need to come out and just need greasing so that will save a few pennies

wont bother getting the bigger V8 brake kit seeing I don’t tow and to be honest found the brakes more than suffice

plus with new calipers think I’ll give them a few coats of paint , might even do them red to get that extra few BHP, lol

next year I’ll need to replace the rear lower wishbones and then the timing belt as it’s due again, along with a new oil pump and aux belt, won’t bother with the rear fuel pump belt seeing it was changed last time

then in theory should be onto basic servicing , lol

as always a massive thks

lynall · Jul 23, 2023

gstuart said:
Wished to first say a massive thks @lynall for the great idea of injecting some brake fluid in behind the piston rubber , neighbour got the wheels off / on for me , alas only worked for a few days so looks like I’ll be replacing my calipers , watching the pistons move I could see they weren’t smooth so to be honest won’t bother rebuilding them as been there done that

looking around a set of 4 x calipers are around £200 , for a bit extra I can get a complete brake kit around £350 , think I’ll more than likely go that route so then it’s done and dusted , already has 8 x new brake hoses , current discs do have a lip on the edge , slider pins need to come out and just need greasing so that will save a few pennies

wont bother getting the bigger V8 brake kit seeing I don’t tow and to be honest found the brakes more than suffice

plus with new calipers think I’ll give them a few coats of paint , might even do them red to get that extra few BHP, lol

next year I’ll need to replace the rear lower wishbones and then the timing belt as it’s due again, along with a new oil pump and aux belt, won’t bother with the rear fuel pump belt seeing it was changed last time

then in theory should be onto basic servicing , lol

as always a massive thks

No need to paint the calipers, so long as you non acid wheel cleaner the silver/gold caliper finish lasts for years.

gstuart · Jul 23, 2023

lynall said:
No need to paint the calipers, so long as you non acid wheel cleaner the silver/gold caliper finish lasts for years.

many thks , I was just generally thinking of all the road salt etc , plus the disc wheel stud area

as a side note a guy down the road asked me about stainless steel brake bleeding nipples, told him not to bother and just get some ordinary ones along with some caps to keep the dirt off them, what does he do, fit stainless steel and when he came to bleed his brakes after a few years , every single one snapped

lynall · Jul 23, 2023

gstuart said:
many thks , I was just generally thinking of all the road salt etc , plus the disc wheel stud area

as a side note a guy down the road asked me about stainless steel brake bleeding nipples, told him not to bother and just get some ordinary ones along with some caps to keep the dirt off them, what does he do, fit stainless steel and when he came to bleed his brakes after a few years , every single one snapped

Blob of grease in the caps works a treat

tilly2 · Jul 23, 2023

Dont forget a smear of anti seize on the threads of the bleeders.... and a smear on the caliper pots with red rubber grease. Never had any issues with calipers using that method.

Stanleysteamer · Jul 24, 2023

tilly2 said:
Dont forget a smear of anti seize on the threads of the bleeders.... and a smear on the caliper pots with red rubber grease. Never had any issues with calipers using that method.

+1^^^

NPG · Jul 24, 2023

gstuart said:
plus with new calipers think I’ll give them a few coats of paint , might even do them red to get that extra few BHP, lol

If you do them green, you'd get better mileage for the gallon

gstuart · Jul 24, 2023

tilly2 said:
Dont forget a smear of anti seize on the threads of the bleeders.... and a smear on the caliper pots with red rubber grease. Never had any issues with calipers using that method.

many thks , must confess was very lucky my pops taught me how to fit brakes along with as u rightly say with the application on pistons

don’t know if it’s just me but instead of copperslip been using ceramic brake grease with great success , on the tails of the pads as they go into the retention clips and onto the slider pins

hopefully the EPB brake shoes are ok and won’t have to deal with them, particularly getting both shoes on with the springs located correctly, have diagnostics bring the shoes in along with disabling the shoes

thks again as regardless of the amount of times I’ve done brakes it’s always I feel good to listen to others, never forget when I had my triumph vitesse of pressing the brakes when the brake drums were off along with struggling getting the springs all back on , my pops always checked them after I had spent hours struggling , as they say best way to learn,

gstuart · Jul 24, 2023

NPG said:
If you do them green, you'd get better mileage for the gallon

lol, got to be worth at least an extra 5 x mpg

talking of colours really like the acrylic post box red which isn’t as bright as the normal Ferrari reds

1988smithy · Jul 24, 2023

gstuart said:
many thks , must confess was very lucky my pops taught me how to fit brakes along with as u rightly say with the application on pistons

don’t know if it’s just me but instead of copperslip been using ceramic brake grease with great success , on the tails of the pads as they go into the retention clips and onto the slider pins

hopefully the EPB brake shoes are ok and won’t have to deal with them, particularly getting both shoes on with the springs located correctly, have diagnostics bring the shoes in along with disabling the shoes

thks again as regardless of the amount of times I’ve done brakes it’s always I feel good to listen to others, never forget when I had my triumph vitesse of pressing the brakes when the brake drums were off along with struggling getting the springs all back on , my pops always checked them after I had spent hours struggling , as they say best way to learn,

+1 ceramic grease

i don't just wire brush the carriers where the pad ears sit either, I run a file on them if needed to actually remove the rust rather than polish it, which I find with wire brush

KISSMYAURA · Jul 24, 2023

1988smithy said:
+1 ceramic grease i don't just wire brush the carriers where the pad ears sit either, I run a file on them if needed to actually remove the rust rather than polish it, which I find with wire brush

Another +1 Ceramic all the way reccomend Ceratec,

PS Copperslip has not had a valid application on a vehicle for anything at all, since the 70's, its abrasive thus houd be avoided at all costs.

gstuart · Jul 24, 2023

1988smithy said:
+1 ceramic grease i don't just wire brush the carriers where the pad ears sit either, I run a file on them if needed to actually remove the rust rather than polish it, which I find with wire brush

many thks as good to hear with regards to the ceramic grease

have ordered a complete brake kit for all 4 x corners as worked out a lot cheaper than getting separate components , so new calipers , brake discs, pads, retention clips , front and rear brake pad wear sensors , 4 x bleed nipples ; caps , along with some more brake fluid which I doubt I’ll need but just in case seeing it’s class 6

thks again

KISSMYAURA · Jul 24, 2023

Liquid moly blue comes with a brush application in a pressure can, genius!
best for brakes, anti fretting, threads bolts bushes etc.
I removed c spanners from td5 90 been on

for 20 years, came off like new cos i used antifret..

gstuart · Jul 24, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
Another +1 Ceramic all the way reccomend Ceratec,

PS Copperslip has not had a valid application on a vehicle for anything at all, since the 70's, its abrasive thus houd be avoided at all costs.

many thks , plus always wondered if copperslip could cause faults with things like abs sensors etc seeing it’s conductive

KISSMYAURA · Jul 24, 2023

gstuart said:
many thks , plus always wondered if copperslip could cause faults with things like abs sensors etc seeing it’s conductive

Good thought perhaps it would mess with the hall effect that the sensor uses to detect the excitor rings ?
Maybe even change with temperature etc.
Main problem is it simply does not do the job, its abrasive and degrades very quickly so by the time you come to remove the damm thing its stuck fast almost glued in by what the copperslip hs turned into.

Stanleysteamer · Jul 24, 2023

This is a revelation to me. I have been using copaslip since, well, the 1970s, when I first had to work on cars as I couldn't afford garage fees.
So far it has always worked fine for me.
I also use "caliper" grease i.e. the red stuff on brake cylinders to stop them seizing etc, But I must get some of this ceramic stuff.

According to this.

Grease Guide: What is Copper Grease Used For?

Copper grease is an anti seize compound designed to operate at extremes of temperature. It is often used to help prevent seizing and corrosion at high temperatures in the automotive industry. It is an ideal choice for use on wheel nuts & bolts, flanges, studs and exhaust brackets to prevent...

www.greasemonkeydirect.com

Copperslip is good for high temp applications. So I'll keep putting it on exhaust bits and pieces.

Thanks guys!!!

gstuart · Jul 24, 2023

KISSMYAURA said:
Liquid moly blue comes with a brush application in a pressure can, genius!
best for brakes, anti fretting, threads bolts bushes etc.
I removed c spanners from td5 90 been onView attachment 293494 View attachment 293495 View attachment 293496 for 20 years, came off like new cos i used antifret..

bless u for that as very helpful , wish when they fitted the wishbone bolts at the factory that they had used some form of copperslip etc as my god it created all sorts of issues where I had to cut the bolts off seeing the bolts had rusted solid into the metal collar of the bushings , plus found out the bolts were hardened steel , took around 15 x recip blades

because of that fitted all new bolts and drenched it in ceramic grease so I didn’t have that problem again , plus think it was just me but suspension is silent without any creaking which I’ve noticed on other discos that had the wishbones replaced , think it might have also been where they didn’t preload the wishbones before torquing up the bolts

thks again for the heads up

KISSMYAURA · Jul 24, 2023

Intersting read here from Mintex website

copper-slip-vs-ceratec

gstuart · Jul 24, 2023

KISSMYAURA · Jul 24, 2023

Stanleysteamer said:
Stanleysteamer said:

This is a revelation to me. I have been using copaslip since, well, the 1970s, when I first had to work on cars as I couldn't afford garage fees.
So far it has always worked fine for me.
I also use "caliper" grease i.e. the red stuff on brake cylinders to stop them seizing etc, But I must get some of this ceramic stuff.

According to this.

Grease Guide: What is Copper Grease Used For?

Copper grease is an anti seize compound designed to operate at extremes of temperature. It is often used to help prevent seizing and corrosion at high temperatures in the automotive industry. It is an ideal choice for use on wheel nuts & bolts, flanges, studs and exhaust brackets to prevent...

www.greasemonkeydirect.com

Copperslip is good for high temp applications. So I'll keep putting it on exhaust bits and pieces.

Thanks guys!!!

Click to expand...

According to Mintex its not good at high temp as it breaks down, ( think annealing coper etc)
In the late 1970's i had a carrier bag of spanners and a tub of copperslip was all you needed!

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