Shippers · Dec 10, 2021

BruceB said:
That looks like an old fashioned headlight dip switch but I could be talking out a hole in my head, maybe it is a brake switch?

It is has 3 wires power in and one to dipped and then full beam...it fits in the hole next to gearbox tunnel for rhd or in the blanked off on the near side by A post operated by left foot...will upload pics of junctions on a 58 tomorrow just finished cleaning them up...@border

border · Dec 10, 2021

Shippers said:
It is has 3 wires power in and one to dipped and then full beam...it fits in the hole next to gearbox tunnel for rhd or in the blanked off on the near side by A post operated by left foot...will upload pics of junctions on a 58 tomorrow just finished cleaning them up...@border

Thanks look forward to pics

steve2286w · Dec 10, 2021

Correct dip switch

from 2a owners manual

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/01/series-iia-owners-manual/

border · Dec 11, 2021

Think Ive got everything I need to start apart from T piece for rear axle,
got flaring tool, kunifer pipe, male and female unions.
Should I be doing a Double Flare on every union ?

steve2286w · Dec 11, 2021

Hopefully this will help
On my series 3 into wheel cylinders it’s single flare and when in the nuts going onto flexis used The double flare as below, it’s a bit common sense when you look at the mating part , eg pipe end (egg ) sits in egg cup (wheel cylinder) if you understand my strange analogy

Shippers · Dec 12, 2021

top down...rear axle top off dif,front offside chassis rail,bulkhead...

border · Dec 12, 2021

Shippers said:
View attachment 254461 top down...rear axle top off dif,front offside chassis rail,bulkhead...

Thanks for pics.
Had a bit practice today, quite pleased with it But not sure about the T Piece , got it from local landy place this morning but think its wrong. Although the unions and hose fits they dont go in as far as they did on the old one which was deeper, they pipe from cylinder to union are nipped up but but the coper washer on hose just spins, Is this OK ? or should I change it,

tottot · Dec 13, 2021

Hard to tell from just pics but I recon at the T the hard pipe fitting is cross threaded [ very easy to do ] and wont go in all the way. [ Other option is wrong thread on fittings ]
The flexi is the wrong way around. T and copper washer goes tight.

border · Dec 13, 2021

tottot said:
Hard to tell from just pics but I recon at the T the hard pipe fitting is cross threaded [ very easy to do ] and wont go in all the way. [ Other option is wrong thread on fittings ]
The flexi is the wrong way around. T and copper washer goes tight.

Looking at old one which is damaged and meausuring depth it is definitely deeper, this is old one up to 1980. BTB657L - Tee Piece for Brake Pipes (johncraddockltd.co.uk)
and this is the new one I am trying after 1980 NRC4251 - T Piece Brake Pipe Rear July 1980 to 2006 Non Abs. and Discovery Non Abs. and Rrc (johncraddockltd.co.uk)

David Leech · Dec 13, 2021

(After 1980) NRC4251 is metric as far as I can gather, what brake pipe fittings and flexi are you using?.....

border · Dec 13, 2021

David Leech said:
(After 1980) NRC4251 is metric as far as I can gather, what brake pipe fittings and flexi are you using?.....

Not really sure just what they gave me at shop. but the unions and hose screw in to both old and new T pieces here is pic of old and new you can see difference in depth.

BikerB · Dec 14, 2021

I just bead blasted the old T pieces and then cleaned them with brake cleaner, they are brass and clean up nicely.
Even doing it by hand I would reuse the old one before I would buy new, not for cost reasons but the older parts are generally better..

border · Dec 14, 2021

BruceB said:
I just bead blasted the old T pieces and then cleaned them with brake cleaner, they are brass and clean up nicely.
Even doing it by hand I would reuse the old one before I would buy new, not for cost reasons but the older parts are generally better..

Old one is broken mate

BikerB · Dec 14, 2021

Blanchards have the originals.

border · Dec 14, 2021

Well the landy specialist assures me that it will be OK with this new t piece, put everything in place , not the neatest of pipework but still practicing, first time Ive tried it really.
Nipped up without washer but still gap so I I put 2 in

Wildefalcon · Dec 15, 2021

Just checking. How tight were the unions when you screwed then into the tee pieces?
There are metric and imperial versions, as suggested before. But the Imperial stuff can physically go into the metric stuff. It's very loose, though, and will never seal or be safe.

border · Dec 15, 2021

Wildefalcon said:
Just checking. How tight were the unions when you screwed then into the tee pieces?
There are metric and imperial versions, as suggested before. But the Imperial stuff can physically go into the metric stuff. It's very loose, though, and will never seal or be safe.

Nipped up tight I took unions with me and he said they were right ones for t piece

Wildefalcon · Dec 15, 2021

Cool, brakes are something you don't mess with.
Rebuilding mine at the moment.

1981 LWB, all metric.

border · Dec 15, 2021

Wildefalcon said:
Cool, brakes are something you don't mess with.
Rebuilding mine at the moment.

1981 LWB, all metric.

View attachment 254667

Good luck, is your's dual or single ?

Wildefalcon · Dec 15, 2021

Dual, servo, PDWA.

All mod cons. And lots of rusty pipes.

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