What is the quality of the various wheel cylinders around. I generally avoid Britcrap and suchlike and fit genuine but one side is about £8 and the other £43 each and I need 2 a side!
I am going to use silicone fluid when it is finished, mainly because I have a can left over from a vehicle that is long gone and I may as well use it in a new system.
I don't want to compromise brakes but its a bit steep to pay £110 for 4 cylinders as opposed to £35 unless there is a major quality difference..:D
Incidentally I would fit a servo, even when single line. I had an MGB which I fitted a servo to and it made all the difference to pedal pressure and was much more relaxed, its not even a cheat on a landy as many were fitted from new.
 
After a lot of work my brakes - LWB S2A are really good, well up to the standard of a modern car:
Borg & Beck shoes - they fit well and have high friction linings
new adjusters - the old ones were backing off
Alloy cylinders all packed with red grease, honed and new seals (rear are BP, front TRW)
Dual circuit, all new lines and braided flexys, new master (BP)
Servo from an early 90 - 9", these just fit inside the wing and clear the column but you have to make some spacers and fit a new clevis.
The parts didn't cost a lot, the 90 servo was £75 new, the shoes around £30 per axle, but its taken 2 years on and off to get here.
 

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I’ve got those stainless brackets well worth cost , at that stage I decided to rotate the backplate a bit to get the bleed nipple away from bottom where getting the pipes in is tight towards the top, you can see the route I’ve took on pics
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I’ve got those stainless brackets well worth cost , at that stage I decided to rotate the backplate a bit to get the bleed nipple away from bottom where getting the pipes in is tight towards the top, you can see the route I’ve took on picsView attachment 254140View attachment 254141
Thanks for pics.
Looks good, and much easier to get to, this is where mine are at the moment. will try and get bleed nipple in at bottom but probably best doing the same as you.
 

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If its single line then it may well have had the combined clutch/brake master reservior fitted from new.
Brake pipe from master down to splitter on chassis top, then one pipe from spliiter forwards along chassis top to the driver side front wheel, another pipe rearwards across back of gbox xmember then forwards to passenger front wheel, another pipe from splitter along top of driver side chassis rail to inside face of chassis to meet the rear axle flexi, last hole on the splitter is for the brake light switch.

I have used britpart cylinders and masters on my series for years, been fine, though masters do seize if not used for months!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...aXTdrj3QWWvuwXzMDMEYUbBLccI2it6waAlXkEALw_wcB
 
If its single line then it may well have had the combined clutch/brake master reservior fitted from new.
Brake pipe from master down to splitter on chassis top, then one pipe from spliiter forwards along chassis top to the driver side front wheel, another pipe rearwards across back of gbox xmember then forwards to passenger front wheel, another pipe from splitter along top of driver side chassis rail to inside face of chassis to meet the rear axle flexi, last hole on the splitter is for the brake light switch.

I have used britpart cylinders and masters on my series for years, been fine, though masters do seize if not used for months!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...aXTdrj3QWWvuwXzMDMEYUbBLccI2it6waAlXkEALw_wcB
Yes single line. I have no master reservoir, yet not sure which to get, there is one in my clutch pedal.
I have a 4 way connector for brake pipes but theres nothing in it to put brake switch, will I need the 5 way one .?
 
Yes single line. I have no master reservoir, yet not sure which to get, there is one in my clutch pedal.
I have a 4 way connector for brake pipes but theres nothing in it to put brake switch, will I need the 5 way one .?

Tbh not sure, I was quoting what my car has, and what the manual shows for 88 and 109, but it is an early manual (original Jan 58 revised Oct 59) so maybe they changed later on?
My brake switch is hydraulic, later cars (I thought s3 onwards) had a mechanical switch

The early metal reserviors are very expensive circa 100 quid.
 
The S2 I am working on has a junction on bulkhead and the one on the offside chassis rail has the brake switch on it can't remember how it's piped up though till I put it back together...
 
I would think that’s a lot of money, might be cheaper elsewhere if getting a few bits, I’ve not come across brake pressure switches but if reqd than an inline 3 way would be cheaper
 
Hydraulic switches under 10 quid ebay under part number 502097, not sure why its listed as 2a and a different part number for s2 models?
 
Here are the pedals I have cant see anywhere a brake switch would go, or am I not looking right ?
 

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Here are the pedals I have cant see anywhere a brake switch would go, or am I not looking right ?
The hole in the break pedal RH takes a plunger type affair which is adjustable and operates a plastic switch which is bolted to a bracket fitted internal to cab on top two pedal box bolts I am sure you can find them items amongst your collection of landrovers.
 
The hole in the break pedal RH takes a plunger type affair which is adjustable and operates a plastic switch which is bolted to a bracket fitted internal to cab on top two pedal box bolts I am sure you can find them items amongst your collection of landrovers.
Found this plunger thingy in footwell of the knackered bulkhead. 3 wires going up in to harness.
 

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