Sulcalibur

Sulcalibur

Member
FL2 TD4 S 2007
Literally just popped out on a very small run in the snow and the brakes were very intermittent and scared the crap out of me. Seemed to be worse if the wheel was turned even slightly. Never had problems ever with braking and are always super. It just seems the snow has crippled them (but only occasionally) and they made a horrible grating noise when pumping the brake (that didn't work). Like I said though, other times I tested they worked fine.

Any advice what I am dealing with here?
 
If the tyres have little grip, then the ABS will kick in. When the ABS controls the brakes, then the pedal will vibrate and fluctuate up and down.

Drive slower is the rule here, especially if the tyres have less than 5mm of tread, or aren't M+S rated.

Putting the TR in Snow mode will help, but it can't change the laws of physics.
 
Nodge68 said:
If the tyres have little grip, then the ABS will kick in. When the ABS controls the brakes, then the pedal will vibrate and fluctuate up and down.

Drive slower is the rule here, especially if the tyres have less than 5mm of tread, or aren't M+S rated.
Click to expand...

I did think it was ABS but it seemed worse when driving very slow, like between 5 and 10 mph and it just didn't work or slow me down at all which when heading to a roundabout was bloody terrifying :| Also it was the brake pedal that was vibrating and making the noise. Acceleration seemed fine.
 
What are the tyres like? If they are under 5mm of tread, or are a summer tyre, then you'll have very little grip.

Did you use Snow Mode in the TR menu?
 
As Nodge says, law of physics...... doesn't matter if you have 2, 4, or 6 wheel drive. When you need to stop, the tyres need to grip the road. Drive slower and use the engine braking.
 
Nodge68 said:
What are the tyres like? If they are under 5mm of tread, or are a summer tyre, then you'll have very little grip.

Did you use Snow Mode in the TR menu?
Click to expand...
I don't have a snow mode, it's quite a basic model, wheel are just the standard ones.
 
Last edited:
Sulcalibur said:
I don't have a snow mode, it's quite a basic model, wheel are just the standard ones.
Click to expand...

So you have none of the special all terrain features then, so effectively it's just like any other ordinary car on snow and stuff.

Tyres are more important, as there's very limited electronics to help.

Like said, tread depth needs to be good for grip to be maintained.

I always fit new tyres before winter, if the tyres are down to less than 5mm before November, and I always fit M+S rated tyres.
 
I thought all FL2’s had terrain response? It is a 4 wheel drive?

I have had a couple of scary moments when I have forgotten to switch to “mud and snow”, it just wouldn’t let me put the brakes on. I cant understand why its not automatic as it knows the temperature outside is. Perhaps Land Rover wrote that code on a Friday afternoon.
 
Sulcalibur said:
I did think it was ABS but it seemed worse when driving very slow, like between 5 and 10 mph and it just didn't work or slow me down at all which when heading to a roundabout was bloody terrifying :| Also it was the brake pedal that was vibrating and making the noise. Acceleration seemed fine.
Click to expand...
Under a certain speed, abs will not work and your wheels will lock up. This helps in snow.
When abs is working, your pedal is supposed to vibrate and may travel further to the floor than normal, just keep pressing
 
potus said:
As Nodge says, law of physics...... doesn't matter if you have 2, 4, or 6 wheel drive. When you need to stop, the tyres need to grip the road. Drive slower and use the engine braking.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure someone on here said new drivers aren't taught to use engine braking anymore!! Apparently it wears the engine out, or some such rubbish
 
Yes, when I was taught in the 80's I was told brakes are cheaper than gearboxes and use the brakes!
But my Dad gave me the most tuition, he got his licence without a test during WW2 and so I drive with sympathy to the mechanicals and brakes.
 
I went straight to HGV in the army in the late 70s. As I was based in Germany, I had to do the German Theory test, the German road test, the UK road test and the British Forces road test. I also had to do x number of hours tuition in the dark and the same in rain if possible. I also had to do some time off-road in a very muddy forest. That was January / Feb 1978 if I remember correctly. I also had to pass some basic vehicle maintenance such as replacing bulbs, fluid checks and changing a wheel, which wasn't easy on a HGV. Also being aware of what loads I could carry and the safety of that load.
 
Stv123 said:
Think we are going a bit off subject guys. This is brake (probably abs) issues
Click to expand...
Not Really! It’s all down to available grip, even if tyres have plenty of tread but are normal summer tyres any snow
Will block the tread and give you four excellent ice slicks, basically you will slide,
When ABS first came out in the seventies on Mercedes the new owners thought it would stop them sliding,
Boy where they wrong, the number of accidents went up not down, you cannot fiddle physics :)
 
kermit_rr said:
Pretty sure someone on here said new drivers aren't taught to use engine braking anymore!! Apparently it wears the engine out, or some such rubbish
Click to expand...

That's correct. My daughter passed last January, but was told in her lessons that using the engine to slow down is now a fail.:eek:

I was taught the exact opposite, and it's stuck. Actually our Mazda CX5 actually puts the next gear to us in the Ipack, and when going down hill on the brakes in 4th, it suggests selecting 2nd, as engine braking helps.

Something else my daughter was taught was stay in 3rd for a 30 limit, change to 4th for a 40 limit, and only select 5th once going near 50. Apparently 6th is for 70 MPH only. :confused:

I don't do any of that rubbish, I get in the highest gear I can for the speed I'm going, which explains why my MPG is twice as good as hers.:)
 
Nodge68 said:
That's correct. My daughter passed last January, but was told in her lessons that using the engine to slow down is now a fail.:eek:

I was taught the exact opposite, and it's stuck. Actually our Mazda CX5 actually puts the next gear to us in the Ipack, and when going down hill on the brakes in 4th, it suggests selecting 2nd, as engine braking helps.

Something else my daughter was taught was stay in 3rd for a 30 limit, change to 4th for a 40 limit, and only select 5th once going near 50. Apparently 6th is for 70 MPH only. :confused:

I don't do any of that rubbish, I get in the highest gear I can for the speed I'm going, which explains why my MPG is twice as good as hers.:)
Click to expand...
I'm calling ballcocks on on it being a fail!! Or it wouldn't be in the theory test. Maybe the instructor had never experienced brake fade.
You're told 3rd in 30 because the extra engine braking gives a learner a bit more control
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

andyfreelandy
Freelander 1 Front brakes still hot, new calipers and pins. Intermittent.
Replies
19
Views
1K
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
T
Freelander 2 (LR2) Couple of issues with my 07 FL2.
Replies
5
Views
708
TyTheOwl
T
MikeFl4
P38A ABS faults and codes
Replies
17
Views
3K
MikeFl4
MikeFl4
300bhp/ton
Driven: New Defender - On & Off Road. Is it a Pretender?
2
Replies
29
Views
5K
tottot
tottot
Nodge68
Freelander 2 (LR2) LR trouble codes.
Replies
6
Views
34K
Keith Kernow Kernewick
Keith Kernow Kernewick