C

Corrie

Member
Right I think asking many may come up with an answer cause I am confused. Everthing is replaced on the landy 1989 90 brake wise. No matter what I do totally confused never happen before in my life with brakes and I anit a spring chicken. Problem blead all the brakes new master, new lines ,new rear cylinders , new drums , new rear pressure valve . When you drive it brakes work , hammer them on rears lock up but font does not. If you block the pipe going to the rear pedal rock sold brakes fine but your only on front brakes, they lock up too. So really confused. The large fitting on the master cylinder what circuit is it meant to feed. This is my first defender so no idea if it was plumbed the correct way when I got it , would that make a difference? Might don't know. Anyone any ideas, apart from run on fronts only.

Thanks
 
so what you expecting to happen? Do you want the front brakes to lock up? Do you not want the rear to lock ?
 
The brakes ain't working right , work fine when the backs disconnected soft pedal when the backs connected. The cylinders are new and not leaking. I think I am Just going to fit disks , christ knows what wrong unless the rear cylinders have started leaking within 2 months check tomorrow. If that what's happened , I still fitting disks.
 
Thanks bud yup they are all adjusted , it feels like when a wheel cylinder pops on a car but you can't get it to hit the floor. It's strange. I just put new cylinders on and I am telling myself it can't be them. I'll see tomorrow. Blocking off the rear with a welded brake fitting in the master cylinder , brakes are solid pedal . Fantastic , with the rears connected your thinking is this pedal going to hit the floor. As I have said before , if I take off the drums and they are leaking already rear disk conversion , I am not mucking about with them wasting too much time/effort
 
Also check the springs in the rear drums are correctly fitted. On mine the top spring was incorrectly attached to both shoes, when it should attached to front shoe and to the back plate.
 
Thanks but yes they are fitted correctly, I am totally flummoxed. Took off drums this morning bone dry. What the xxx is going on what the chances of a britpart master being bad. I was going to get an axel but what if it does the same , I have never seen anything in my life like this
 
Well I am going to tee the front circuit to the back if the pedal goes hard , if it does it the master. Using this tee
16184837791281995009324161440678.jpg
 
Britpart master cylinders have been known to be dodgy. But I'm failing to see the issue, if I brake hard in my series, the rears will lock up but not the fronts, I thought that was normal. Are you saying the pedal goes to far down under braking? If the shoes are new maybe they need bedding in. Maybe I have become a grandad driver but I can only remember braking hard once in the last 5 years cos some twot shot out of a side road without looking, the rears locked up but not the fronts and believe me, I was standing on the pedal.

Col
 
Corrie said:
Right I think asking many may come up with an answer cause I am confused. Everthing is replaced on the landy 1989 90 brake wise. No matter what I do totally confused never happen before in my life with brakes and I anit a spring chicken. Problem blead all the brakes new master, new lines ,new rear cylinders , new drums , new rear pressure valve . When you drive it brakes work , hammer them on rears lock up but font does not. If you block the pipe going to the rear pedal rock sold brakes fine but your only on front brakes, they lock up too. So really confused. The large fitting on the master cylinder what circuit is it meant to feed. This is my first defender so no idea if it was plumbed the correct way when I got it , would that make a difference? Might don't know. Anyone any ideas, apart from run on fronts only.

Thanks
Click to expand...


What I have found with the drums is you need to adjust tighter than I am normally comfortable with, ie if the wheel spins freely the adjustment is to slack, its seems wrong and totally against the grain but it works on my series which I believe is same set up as yours rears.

Of all the parts suppliers Britpart have the worst rep by a country mile.I have fitted and still fit quite a bit of their gear, mainy wihout isssue, but for critical parts only use their part number ending in the letter G.
 
Yup it got the bias valve fitted and it's got britpart brake shoes on the rear and mintex on the front. What's confusing me is the front wheels will lock when the backs disconnected but won't even think about it when it is. Is it the master cylinder ? When I spliced the brakes into 1 circuit they are better but won't lock any of the wheels. I get to the bottom of it but when I don't know. When I got it the rears were leaking brakes were never that good but I put it down to leaking cylinders/seized, now I have replaced everthing the brakes are worse than before
 
Clamp the rear flexi & re bleed ?
Get a good pedal.
then clamp the 2 fronts & bleed the rear
Try this you may need to adjust the rear shoes further out
Good luck
 
Thanks but I have never ever seen anything like this in 30 years. Went down my friends farm track it won't lock the brakes on gravel but if you block off the rear brakes it will scream the front tyres at any speed on tarmac. What about someone's been tampering with the servo push rod and wound it off, don't know just grasping at straws. Does anyone know how far the servo push rod sits out when not being pressed , mines flush not sticking out at all.
 
@Corrie , Land Rover brakes are very simple. Can see your frustration from your writing but recommend taking a chill pill, they're only brakes :)
  1. Re-check the assembly and absolute cleanliness of your rear drums + the mechanical actuation/return
  2. Re-adjust the rear drum cam snail...sometimes just 1x too many clicks can over do it
  3. Buying a Britpart master cylinder is not recommended - only Girling, TRW, AP Lockheed and Delphi manufacturer to correct build...anything else is ****ing in the wind Q? are you 100% it's the correct master cylinder for your LR? This should be https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams...brake-actuation/master-cylinder-servo_52910#1
  4. If rear drums adjusted correctly, your front discs/pads should manage 75-80% of the braking :. logically, the fault lies within the front circuits...
  5. ...check the front brake lines for blockages and the flexibles - are the front brake flexible lines new? If so, are these Britpart too? If all genuinely correct and operational within front circuit...
  6. the brake balance valve stuck open/failed?
  7. Did you use the original brake Servo/are you certain this is operating correctly with full vacuum to provide full assistance to both front and rears?
  8. When you bled the brakes, what sequence did you use? The LR manual is incorrect...the brakes should be bled in the following sequence...
  • Furthest from MC [near side rear]
  • off side rear
  • near side front
  • off side front [nearest to MC]
Lastly, don't safety test your brakes on a farm track. You need standard flat road tarmac...this will correctly flag up any braking deficiencies.

eta - your brake reducing valve for an 1989 90 should be https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/SJD500020 , https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams...ystems/hoses-pipes/front-brake-pipes_44966#10
 
Thanks that was very detailed , luck has shined on me at last got a 200tdi discovery for buttons so I got a rear axel and a front engine ect and a winch think it's warn post a pic if it's a warn. It's not a warn it's a ramsey never heard of them.
 
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