I promise you all I have read every post & reply regarding brake issues. I have scrutinised the Rave cd and I just can't find a similar problem. Please read on.

Around 6,000 miles ago I started getting all 3 brake associated warning lights flashing on for a split second when I touched the brakes. Ignored it, as you do. Then after a hub rebuild I had the ABS light and TC light on all the time - So changed the sensor on that hub. No change. Car failed MOT because of ABS light. Taking car for various test drives I noticed that the pedal was locking up and kicking back as if the ABS was kicking in. Took advice from you guys on an earlier post and changed the ECU. No change. Took an accumulator of another working P38 (yes the only other one working in NZ) and swapped them over. No change.
Bought a complete ABS/master cylinder unit from the scrappers and fitted that. After a marathon bleed session set off for my test drive. Now slightly different!

ABS light went out after the car had travelled the requisite distance, first touch of the brakes was good, lovely firm pedal and great brakes!

Then 2nd touch of the brakes it all went tits up. Pedal was completely solid and I went staright through the t junction and into the ditch. the pedal then softened to normal, the warning bong beeped its usual 3 rings of sorrow the ABS light came on and stayed on and every time I pressed the pedal the brake warning light flashes along side the the ABS light.

The brakes are great! But the ABS light is on permanently. On restart I have replicated this scenario several times (without entering the ditch) I get a few moments of serene calm, followed by solid pedal, followed by warning beeps & lights and great brakes.

Anyone had similar issue? should I change the only thing left which is the pump and the accumulator?

Help please.

I would have thought a diagnostic check would have been the first step rather than replacing parts...

Never feck around wit hthe brakes by guessing why the light is on....getting it on diagnostics is the very first thing to do....

Pump and accumulator is the most common fail item and I would have checked there function as the very first thing to try...bridging contacts across the relay to see if the pump actually runs...if it does - check relay, if thats good, could be pressure switch...if the pump doesn't run, check power to the pump multiplug...if good, pump fecked...if no power, check wiring, fuses etc....

Are you assured your S/H parts are A1 and not at fault too???

Diagnostics is the first stage...

Thanks Saint. Should have mentioned - no diagnostics within 5 hrs drive. Pump runs and checks out electrically. De pressurise system and then start up, the pump runs for around 10 seconds. But it starts every time I press the pedal for a few seconds, but has been doing that for over 10 years. On normal start up it runs for a few seconds and then stops.

Should run every few pedal pushes not after each....Accumulator sounds duff to me then!!

For a lot less money for those parts you threw at it, you could have bought a Nanocom. Could be as simple as a sensor gone loose or wonky on another end, could be the accumalator. I had the ABS light on and I thought my brakes were fine, but changed the accumalator and now brakes are better and no ABS light. Also sometimes the TC and ABS light come one when I start off from the lights even gently and get traction fault. Most probably the rear Abs sensor, but will hook it up to see what exactly it is.

Thanks Dude, should have mentioned I'm originally from Yorkshire. The ECU was 30 quid plus postage from ebay and I bought the master cylinder for $300 around 200 quid. So, I'm quite happy with expenditure so far. Nanocom comes in at abot $1000 here. Cheers.

What age is your car, the TC is different for pre and post 98/99 cars. I agree that diagnostics are better than just trying to fathom it out - I went all round the car trying to find our ABS fault - bought a Hawkeye and it told me which one wasn't playing within a couple of minutes.
I don't know if this is related but might be worth looking at on this site, theres a change in the brake valve body, parts from Hardrange I think, somthing about a clunk from the valve body when you power up the brakes? Sorry I can't be more specific, but its here somewhere.
Good luck

1998 is the year. Thanks for your help.

Johnny if you go through the bleeding procedure on rave at the point you have too bleed your calipers using the pump. is a good idear to hear see/ test if its pumping brake fluid properly and constantly .

Thanks defender, yep I went through the bleed proceedure as per the Rave instructions. 5 litres of brake fluid later, with the pump running quite a bit, and the brakes feel really good. Still get the solid pedal after a few minutes and then the flashing lights with ABS light solid. Thanks all of you for your suggestions but just realise when you don't have access to diagnostics, this is what you have to do. This problem has been rolling along for 3 months now and changing components is all I have. Telling me what I should have done doesn't help especially when I can't do it because of Geography.

I may be wrong in saying this but i once heard that if your tracking is out it can affect the ABS? But i am sure someone will put me right on this!

LANDY424 said:

I may be wrong in saying this but i once heard that if your tracking is out it can affect the ABS? But i am sure someone will put me right on this!

Click to expand...

how ? i wouldnt think so play in wheel bearings will

TD5 ABS and Traction control lights come on when driving
Hi again i found this an on the Td5 this is a problem with tracking being out which can put light on.

What was the reason you had to rebuild the hub?youmight have damaged something in there like the abs sensor pick up ring.or worn bearings etc.as you never had the constant abs light till you were in there,so I would be checking that area first,the three lights flashing was probably your accumulator needing replaced ,go back to what you did before you had the problems and check everything over good,