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pault

New Member

• Aug 5, 2004

• #1

Hi Guys,

Just found this forum while looking for a solution to my landy problem.
I've an old Series IIa which recently failed it's MOT as the rear brakes were binding.
Ok, pretty simple to fix you say... just adjust them.
It turns out the wheel cylinders were fairly seized, so I serviced them and replaced rubbers etc. Now they're as good as new.
However, since doing that the brake pedal is spongy on first press but hard on (no offence meant!) subsequent presses. Leave it for 30 seconds and it's spongy again.
I've spent ages bleeding the brakes until new fluid comes through.
Now I'm a bit lost... There are no visible leaks.
Any suggestions of what to check next? I was thinking of servicing the master cylinder - think this could be the cause of the problem?

 

accywingy

Large Member!

Administrator

• Aug 5, 2004

• #2

I would defo concider a seal in the master cylinder, in my oppinion it sounds like a leak.... will have a think and see what i can come up with....

Oh and welcome to Landyzone!!!

 

P

pault

New Member

• Aug 6, 2004

• #3

Hi accywingy, thanks for the advice.. and warm welcome.

It does sound like a leak, but it's strange there's no visible sign! I'm awaiting delivery of the master cylinder repair kit from 4x4partsmaster.com - they seem pretty helpful and always have the bits I need in stock.

Will keep you posted.
Thanks again,
Paul.

 

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FATTOM

New Member

• Aug 6, 2004

• #4

2 Weeks ago I serviced my brakes, also Series11a, I have only had it a short time. What should have been simple turned into a nightmare. We ended up adjusting each drum in turn, until it felt O.K. sounds easy enough but we got one fixed and another would go, bled them all and adjusted each one in turn again. This happened a number of times then just sorted itself out, my brakes are now fine and have felt right since. There is also a sequence in which they should be bled. nearest to the master cylinder first. Check that I'm right in that. but I'm sure that what my mate did

 

cruisermik

Active Member

• Aug 6, 2004

• #5

Hy Guys,
Thought it was the other way round, furthest from the master cyl. first. Might be wrong tho'
Cruisermik.

 

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FATTOM

New Member

• Aug 6, 2004

• #6

Stand corrected 'cruisermik', hope you are o.k.

 

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stratie

New Member

• Dec 29, 2004

• #7

Hi Guys, i have the same problem as pault .
ive fitted a new master cylinder to my landy (2a) i can bleed the brakes and get a good pedal, but it will only last for a few pumps.
then the pedal will travel right down with no resistance, so i bleed them again and find more air in the system.
there are no signs of leakage, and all 4 wheel cylinders are in good shape.
if i give the pedal 3 to 4 pumps, i find the fluid in the reservoir starts to bubble.
this makes me think my master cyinder, is past it's sell by date (even tho it's brand new) i will strip the cylinder down to day, and have a good look at the seals ect.
as for bleeding the brakes on my 2a, i start, front left (passenger side) front right, rear left, rear right.
cheers guy's

 

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stratie

New Member

• Dec 30, 2004

• #8

took the old (brand new) master cylinder off, pulled the cylinder apart and found the piston was scored and the seal was split. this cylinder was brand new from a well known landy dealer.
i found a local landy dealer who had a cylinder in stock, yippeeeeeeeee me thinks.
only he wanted £58 for the same cylinder you can get from craddocks for £15.
i got him down to £40, so i fit the new cylinder, and bleed the brakes.
job's a good un, the brakes are spot on, very happy.
top tip for bleeding your landy brakes (and we all know what a pig of a job that is) get your self an "Eezibleed kit" made by Gunson's, no more pumping your pedal untill your blue in the face, this bit of kit is ace.
it's a one man job, took me all of 10 mins to bleed my brakes.

 

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StrangeRover

New Member

• Feb 17, 2005

• #9

Also bulging hoses can give a spongy feel -Goodridge or local hydraulic hose manufacturer if you want to pay real prices - if master cyl leak, pedal will 'sink' (but no fluid loss - press pedal (engine no need started) and if it sinks (but no fluid loss) you have a leak back past m/cyl seal.