tarphenry

Well-Known Member
Hi all, just read RAVE regarding pad change. mentions pushing cylinders back, but no mention of letting fluid out by loosening bleed nipple. I have always done this , is it not acceptable on a P38. Any advice gratefully received thanks
 
I have tested it but not fitted it yet,weathers too cold for me .Hopefully next week or so Thanks
 
Needs 2 people to bleed the brakes and a full charge of the battery.
 
remove the lid of the reservoir and put rags down if there is an overspill - if you open the bleed screw with no 'held' pressure - i.e. the pedal been held down - air can enter the system. That is the same for any brake system
 
I usually use a clamp - C clamp for wood working with plastic jaws to put pressure on the pistons then crack the bleed nipple as I tighten the clamp - or some one tightens the clamp, closing up the bleed nipple as the piston is nearly in. The rest of the movement can go back up to the master cylinder without risk of overflow.
 
I usually use a clamp - C clamp for wood working with plastic jaws to put pressure on the pistons then crack the bleed nipple as I tighten the clamp - or some one tightens the clamp, closing up the bleed nipple as the piston is nearly in. The rest of the movement can go back up to the master cylinder without risk of overflow.
You can buy the proper kit on the Bay for less than £15, item number available if necessary.
 
I do similar, compress the pistons and let it out the bleed nipple...just as the pistons are getting close to full retraction, I do up the nipple to prevent air getting in...never had an issue on any of the P38's (or other cars) I have done this with!
 
That's a pretty comprehensive kit and very reasonably priced.

Mine is just a basic retractor and it probably cost twice as much!
 
Found this on youtube - looks like an interesting break- down on how to do it - although no mention of the pad wear sensors/

 

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