Mitax-184 · Apr 27, 2016

Hi all
Getting issue with front breaks getting stupidly hot on short runs.
I've changed the slide pins
Changed caliper pistons and seals
Bleed the breaks getting better but not great there seems to be no binding but slight rub from the disc on the pads now would this put a lot of heat in to the discs in a mile drive? Getting discs tomorrow anything else I should check?

Nodge68 · Apr 27, 2016

There's always a slight rub of the pads on the disc. However you should be able to turn the wheel freely, if the rear is lifted too. If the wheels aren't free with minimal drag, the discs will heat up.

Flossie · Apr 27, 2016

Brakes.
No free play at master.

teddywood1 · Apr 28, 2016

I am wondering if the right disc's are on it

Andy_J · Apr 28, 2016

Pads binding up in the calliper carrier or collapsed brake hose?

8ha · Apr 28, 2016

free play master cylinder are master piston seals getting swollen not letting pressure off to prove this push brake pedal hard then let pressure off very slowly then loosen brake pipe nut on feed to front calapers noes brake fluid seem to be under pressure momentrly or does it just ozzeout have you worked calaper pistons are not getting pitted or casting developing rust build up just in front of pressure seal are both calipers getting hot or only one side

Lowbank · Apr 28, 2016

had this several times and if you have done the calipers, it will be the flexy hoses, they collapse inside. you can get some shiny stainless ones for about £80.

Mitax-184 · Apr 30, 2016

Both are getting to be same amount of heat in then. Been told to sharply break and see if car moves off being pushed by hand which it does so this is supposed to determine if hose have collapsed. Fresh discs are going in this coming week with new pads. Everything seemed normal when bleeding the breaks. Could it be a build up of crap on the mud shield? New Pistons in and new slide pins. What is the score with master?

Moosekeeper · Apr 30, 2016

My vote is for internally collapsed brake hoses -they then act as "non-return valves" holding the brakes on. I had this on another car (not an LR ) and it took years to identify until diagnosed by a car club pal and then all was OK. Hoses need replacement periodically anyway so get a couple of new ones, it's money well spent.

Mitax-184 · Apr 30, 2016

Hoses are next on the list to do could it be slight buckle in the disc causing the issue ? The mud shield was hot today as well can you get away with not having them on?

Nodge68 · Apr 30, 2016

How hot are these brakes? Have you actually measured the temperature? Don't forget that if you have driven the car and stopped it using the brakes, they will be heat up from that stop.

Mitax-184 · Apr 30, 2016

They are stupidly hot. After 40 miles with not much breaking to my home town if you spit on them it fizzs after a few Mile they to hot to touch. Every other car I have owned has been they have been cool all the time unless it been hammered. The discs aren't glowing but still something is causing this friction but break release fine and don't seem to be sticking. On a very shallow gradient the car will easy roll forward. This is what's making me think it's a buckle in the disc and not warped as can't feel under breaking vibration just a plus kind of feeling like its connecting more with it in some parts more than others

Mitax-184 · Apr 30, 2016

teddywood1 said:
I am wondering if the right disc's are on it

Right discs?? What else could be on but freelander ones they are vented ones. I've bought correct ones now so will see

Lowbank · May 1, 2016

I have spent 26 years working on cars.
Brakes can be very frustrating, My last car a Volvo was the same. The rear brakes kept sticking. No matter how many times I stripped the callipers the brakes kept sticking. I replaced the hoses, the hand brake cables, the discs and the pads (four times as it kept cooking them. ). recond calipers finally put the problem to bed.
I have however done several cars where I replaced calipers to find it was the hoses.
So my plan of attack I have developed is.
strip and clean calipers, check any slide pins, check the pistons for any corrosion.
drive for a few days to se if issue clears
If I have not cleared the problem, I remove the calipers and hoses. Strip the calipers removing the pistons. clean and rebuild with plenty of brake fluid, refit with new hoses.
bleed and hopefully replace all the old fluid.
check handbrake operation mainly on the rears. Alfasuds were front inboard discs and you had to remove the engine and gearbox to replace the handbrake cable. great design that one
If thats not fixed it, I replace the Calipers as I did on. the. Volvo

Mitax-184 · May 1, 2016

Lowbank said:
I have spent 26 years working on cars.
Brakes can be very frustrating, My last car a Volvo was the same. The rear brakes kept sticking. No matter how many times I stripped the callipers the brakes kept sticking. I replaced the hoses, the hand brake cables, the discs and the pads (four times as it kept cooking them. ). recond calipers finally put the problem to bed.
I have however done several cars where I replaced calipers to find it was the hoses.
So my plan of attack I have developed is.
strip and clean calipers, check any slide pins, check the pistons for any corrosion.
drive for a few days to se if issue clears
If I have not cleared the problem, I remove the calipers and hoses. Strip the calipers removing the pistons. clean and rebuild with plenty of brake fluid, refit with new hoses.
bleed and hopefully replace all the old fluid.
check handbrake operation mainly on the rears. Alfasuds were front inboard discs and you had to remove the engine and gearbox to replace the handbrake cable. great design that one
If thats not fixed it, I replace the Calipers as I did on. the. Volvo

Thanks for that will re do calipers as cleaning then since I'm doing the discs see if that helps if that don't clear the problem will do the hoses the pistons are new as replaced then so will see what happens from there. Not that I'm against hoses all for it just want locate the problem by changing one thing at a time

teddywood1 · May 2, 2016

Mitax-184 said:
Right discs?? What else could be on but freelander ones they are vented ones. I've bought correct ones now so will see

some one could have put none vented ones on

Mitax-184 · May 4, 2016

Have put new disc pads and hoses on the car after about 35/40 mins starts to shake the car and discs get stupidly hot still. What is next move ?

Lowbank · May 4, 2016

is it both sides???

Mitax-184 · May 4, 2016

Yeah it's both sides

Lowbank · May 4, 2016

Well it can only be three things for me.
Both calipers are still sticking which sounds unlikely.
The master cylinder is causing positive pressure making the callipers put pressure on the pads, I have never had this happen, has anyone else???
An abs system causing positive pressure, never known this either.

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