Been thinking about this and other weird things that might affect the brakes. Only thing I can think of.... Is..
Have you changed the front alloys at all or had work done on them, older alloys have less clearance than later ones and will put extra pressure on the discs if put on the wrong version. Or if you've had them refurbished the paint could be thicker and having the same effect.
Very very long shot, but check everything, you never know.
Mike
 
Been thinking about this and other weird things that might affect the brakes. Only thing I can think of.... Is..
Have you changed the front alloys at all or had work done on them, older alloys have less clearance than later ones and will put extra pressure on the discs if put on the wrong version. Or if you've had them refurbished the paint could be thicker and having the same effect.
Very very long shot, but check everything, you never know.
Mike
I'm open to anything what do you think to slider idea? Think alloys are correct but I will. Check
 
I had the original carrier pins in for 10 years and when I eventually changed them they were a bit wobbly. Probably 2mm of movement.
Thing is my brakes are always hot as mines an auto so very little engine braking and I go through pads like nobody's business.
I don't think the pins are the problem, but worth checking.
How old is your brake fluid? Is the brake pedal in the car ok?
Check all the stupid stuff, it is a Landrover after all:rolleyes:
Mike
 
Fluid is new well been in a week. What you mean by break pedal? My bottom pins are new and not to freely moving so this is what is making me question the caliper carrier being pre 01 and it's been put on by mistake
 
The brake pedal controls the brakes, and it's got a big spring at the top too push it back out, if the springs buggered it won't push the pedal back leaving your brakes on.
I've usually found most problems aren't caused by what you think it is. After 12 years of owning the Freelander, I start fault finding in quite a unique way.
Mike
 
The brake pedal controls the brakes, and it's got a big spring at the top too push it back out, if the springs buggered it won't push the pedal back leaving your brakes on.
I've usually found most problems aren't caused by what you think it is. After 12 years of owning the Freelander, I start fault finding in quite a unique way.
Mike
Got you. Not looked at the spring in the pedal so will look in the morning pedal returns back as normal
 
Have you replaced the calipers or just the pistons? I had the same problem with my old 04 Freelander, changed the pistons and seal and nothing changed, eventually I replaced both calipers, problem was resolved.
 
Have you replaced the calipers or just the pistons? I had the same problem with my old 04 Freelander, changed the pistons and seal and nothing changed, eventually I replaced both calipers, problem was resolved.
No just changed the Pistons and seals but have new calipers on order so will put them on as soon as I get them
 
Tonyj did you get juddering?
Today removed the central prop and vcu not juddering as bad now could this be cause of the front drive shafts which in turn are heating discs up due to vibration?
 
I only had juddering when my VCU started to go wrong, had nothing to do with the brakes. Both problems were about 12 months apart.
i cant see how vibration would cause the discs to heat up. I would still replace the calipers as sounds like you may now have two separate problems. Once your brakes are done and you're happy with them, then put the VCU and prop back on and see if the juddering returns.
 
Juddering with new discs means 1 of 2 things. 1st the hub wasn't absolutely clean and flat on the disc register. 2nd the new discs have warped from being heated too much too quickly.
 
Will take off and clean hub again just to double check. Juddering seems to happen most noticeable in 2nd & 3rd which is what's making me think cv for that. Hopefully new calipers will solve the issue but it free wheels like a charm this is what I don't understand. Check everything that people have said all good and valid suggestions.
 
Was worse with vcu and props on so that can wait till this issue is out the way and have money for a new vcu. There is not noise from cv's that I've noticed but could still be on there way out. When had car up there's was about 2/3 MM. Of play on both cv's is that normal
 
Failed CV joints have different symptoms depending on which has failed. The inner joint causes a rock to the power unit at various speeds, but only under load. Failing outer CV normally make a metallic click at full lock. All joints have a degree of free play. Axially there is a few mm. Radially there should be some detectable movement but not really enough to be visible.
 
This is a left to right shudder/judder/Rock just don't know what to do. Also when goes in to first get like a clunk that was not there before prop was taken off is this cause there is no prop on now. So does this seem like I've got more than one issue?
 
That's not looking like the brakes. It's looks like a transmission problem to me. How's the VCU and IRD?
 

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