guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-drum-rear-retaining-screw-sf106121l-p-19486.html
This? You don't technically need them, as the wheel holds it all together. They are handy for assembly and adjusting, though.
This? You don't technically need them, as the wheel holds it all together. They are handy for assembly and adjusting, though.
Lowbank
Active Member
I bought stainless ones from ebay. If my memory is correct they were 6mm.
Just been and checked, they are 6mm and I bought 12mm thread length.
I think I bought 30 as it was only a couple of quid more. I am building up a little stock of stainless bolts as I go along. I have replaced the door catch bolts on all five doors, the lights, under bonnet wing bolts and the rear wheel mount.
Just been and checked, they are 6mm and I bought 12mm thread length.
I think I bought 30 as it was only a couple of quid more. I am building up a little stock of stainless bolts as I go along. I have replaced the door catch bolts on all five doors, the lights, under bonnet wing bolts and the rear wheel mount.
teddywood1
Well-Known Member
many years ago I left the screws of the drums as they were a bit worse for wear on the cross screw driver part and meant to replace them asap but did not when I did remember which was about 2 years later I discovered that the holes for the studs to go through had very slightly gone oval only approx. 1 mm, so I will always replace them now , if you find you can not get them off either then get a six mm drill and drill the head off then when you take the drum off you just need a pair of pliers and they come out easy and if you put a tiny bit of copper grease on the thread they will always come out.
Many thanks for reply yes all done now as i received my new screws this morning from ebay i brought the high tensile ones and they fit great and thanks i did use some copaslip so hopefully will come of easier next time seems a lot better having the allen key fitment
these are the ones i used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291826492988?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
these are the ones i used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291826492988?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Not saying you did this but some peeps smear copper grease on the face of the brake disks to prevent wheels from jamming but I've always been of the opinion this is a very bad idea. The friction between the wheel and the disk is important as without it only the studs are preventing the wheel from twisting under braking and acceleration. A little copper grease around the centric ring is all that's needed.
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Only the center 'hub' bit, not the braking surface
Lowbank
Active Member
I was taught by a mechanic never to put any type of copper slip or grease any where near brakes. Build them dry as the grease/slip or what ever will only hold the brake dust and make them seize faster.
Also whe they get hot the grease/copper slip becomes very liquid and runs into places you dont want it.
The amount of brakes I have stripped where the grease/copperslip has contaminated the pads is amazing. Put together correctly and maintained correctly there is no need for the stuff near brakes.
Also whe they get hot the grease/copper slip becomes very liquid and runs into places you dont want it.
The amount of brakes I have stripped where the grease/copperslip has contaminated the pads is amazing. Put together correctly and maintained correctly there is no need for the stuff near brakes.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
This is spot on.
However you do need some anti seize compound on the wheel spigot to prevent the wheels from getting stuck on the hub
Alibro
Well-Known Member
LOL, I don't think that will cause any issues. Some folks slap it everywhere but often times less is better.
ok many thanks will remember less is best but hopefully i will not have to drill out disc crews again with the use of copaslip.
