Tenebreaux
Well-Known Member
I would assume all it can do is run the pump. Which is one of the last things in the bleeding procedure.
Follow raves nipple by nipple... Hmmm... Nipple.. Sorry..
Yip, nippies.. Nipples.. Rave. Nipple bleeding Nipples..
Yip, nippies.. Nipples.. Rave. Nipple bleeding Nipples..
I use a pressure bleeder but following the routine as per the rave, works very well. 
JUKE179r
Well-Known Member
If you already have the Nanocom, why not use it?
P38 > pick your engine > WABCO D > UTILITY > All the bleed options are there.
P38 > pick your engine > WABCO D > UTILITY > All the bleed options are there.
I learned this the hard way on my Disco 2.
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
Never take chances with brakes, IMO the manufacturers procedure is the best way.
+1 on do it per the procedure in RAVE. The Nano procedure says "start with manual bleed", so why not just do that.
In case anyone wants the Nanocom Wabco D explanation, this is from the nano Forums, but doesn't help much !
** Quote **
ABS power bleed: This causes the ABS system to bleed the main hydraulic circuit and may need to be repeated if there is a substantial amount of air in the circuit.
ABS modulator bleed: This causes the ABS system to bleed the secondary hydraulic circuit and may need to be repeated if there is a substantial amount of air in the circuit.
There is a rule on how to bleed these systems, you start with the Manual Bleed which means that you need to replace the brake fluid in the tank.
Then you start with the Modulator Bleed. For this you need to have the Brake pedal depressed. This will pre-bleed the 4 ABS channels. You can do it twice, always with the brake pedal depressed.
All the bleeding nipples must be closed at this stage. Once this ends, take all the wheels out, put the vehicle on 4 stands and perform the main bleeding procedure:
Start with the power bleed with the bleeding nipples opened in the following sequence:
Left Front Wheel
Right Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Left Rear Wheel
Don't forget to fill up the fluid tank so it will not suck air otherwise you need to start all over again. No need to depress the brake pedal during the individual bleed.
Note that the ABS pump requires a lot of power so you will need a power supply connected to the vehicle.
In case anyone wants the Nanocom Wabco D explanation, this is from the nano Forums, but doesn't help much !
** Quote **
ABS power bleed: This causes the ABS system to bleed the main hydraulic circuit and may need to be repeated if there is a substantial amount of air in the circuit.
ABS modulator bleed: This causes the ABS system to bleed the secondary hydraulic circuit and may need to be repeated if there is a substantial amount of air in the circuit.
There is a rule on how to bleed these systems, you start with the Manual Bleed which means that you need to replace the brake fluid in the tank.
Then you start with the Modulator Bleed. For this you need to have the Brake pedal depressed. This will pre-bleed the 4 ABS channels. You can do it twice, always with the brake pedal depressed.
All the bleeding nipples must be closed at this stage. Once this ends, take all the wheels out, put the vehicle on 4 stands and perform the main bleeding procedure:
Start with the power bleed with the bleeding nipples opened in the following sequence:
Left Front Wheel
Right Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Left Rear Wheel
Don't forget to fill up the fluid tank so it will not suck air otherwise you need to start all over again. No need to depress the brake pedal during the individual bleed.
Note that the ABS pump requires a lot of power so you will need a power supply connected to the vehicle.
Just do as per RAVE for christ sake. Bleed the booster first of all. Then the front brakes are bled hydrostatically WITHOUT any accumulator pressure. The rear brakes CANNOT be bled unless there is accumulator pressure.
The fronts are bled first the rears are bled second. The front brakes will always work because they are hydrostatic and do not need pressure assistance. Obviously they will not stop you on a dime but they always work. The rear brakes will not work without boost pressure. Simples.
The fronts are bled first the rears are bled second. The front brakes will always work because they are hydrostatic and do not need pressure assistance. Obviously they will not stop you on a dime but they always work. The rear brakes will not work without boost pressure. Simples.
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I think theres a cream you can get for that
So why not just say “followed the manual” and all is great thanks?
It will help newbies in the future. well the ones that search anyway
You know well enough that banter may go on in between Q and result?
J
Indeed you did but you have to allow time for those who don't have a clue what they are talking about to chip in and be corrected.
Once the Nanocom functionality to bleed brakes was raised people want to fully understand what it does. That seems sensible.
The pwood999 post says it is mainly for getting stubborn air out of the modulator. Seems it mimics pressing the pedal with ignition on? I've certainly had fun getting all air out fitting a new modulator so I can see why it might be useful.
The pwood999 post says it is mainly for getting stubborn air out of the modulator. Seems it mimics pressing the pedal with ignition on? I've certainly had fun getting all air out fitting a new modulator so I can see why it might be useful.
