Good thread my man, I feel it only fair to say I have stolen a picture from here to put on another thread, the one that shows the sedimentor

Anyone know which bolt(s) you undo to remove the sedimentor (with fuel lines still attached) so I can clean it. Remembering that my boot floor is still in situ

; )


Ta
 
It's the one in the centre .. bolt goes through the top and into the base, clamping the parts of the sedimenter together.

If it's not been done in a while you might notice a small improvement ... ;)
 
a comon leak on a disco is the rear windows - all the seals will die one day lol
However, another place to look is the gutter... where the gutter meets the roof is also a week point, and a hairline crack can appear. so clean these with a toothbrush and get some clear silcone sealant and spread it along the seam...

Fixed mine like that! lol
 
Check the front inner sills in front of where the A pillar meets the body mount, I just found a 3" square hole there on mine after poking about with a screwdriver... it's gonna be a bitch to get the welder in there.
 
a comon leak on a disco is the rear windows - all the seals will die one day lol
However, another place to look is the gutter... where the gutter meets the roof is also a week point, and a hairline crack can appear. so clean these with a toothbrush and get some clear silcone sealant and spread it along the seam...

Fixed mine like that! lol

Do not use SILICONE sealant!! Use proper tiger seal or RTV sealant. Household/buildng silicone is no use for use on motor vehicles.
 
ahhhh the old thread of boot floor being non structural has reared its ugly head again i see...lmfao if landrover had intended it to be riveted like the rangie..they would have riveted it.. but no it was welded..ergo the repair for the purpose of the mot must be as strong if not stronger then the original spec..the rear edge of the boot floor is within 30cm of a body mount..if its rotten its gotta be welded..most riveted floors pass the test cos they cant be seen very well from underneathe when they are all covered in underseal and other nasty stuff that has been applied to stop the old tin worm.
andy
 
ahhhh the old thread of boot floor being non structural has reared its ugly head again i see...lmfao if landrover had intended it to be riveted like the rangie..they would have riveted it.. but no it was welded..ergo the repair for the purpose of the mot must be as strong if not stronger then the original spec..the rear edge of the boot floor is within 30cm of a body mount..if its rotten its gotta be welded..most riveted floors pass the test cos they cant be seen very well from underneathe when they are all covered in underseal and other nasty stuff that has been applied to stop the old tin worm.
andy

depends how many rivets you use.... if you use one in each corner no it wont be strong, if you use a good amount it will be strong, other wise they wouldn't rivet planes and helicopters together would they now!!

so two lines of rivets across each beam, like the spot welds i drilled out and one line all way around the floor will be plenty strong, the original floor was not welded all the way round!! and as long as you use good sized rivets it will be strong enough!!!!
 
i am a tester mate, if it came to me with rivets it would fail..simples really, and planes aint no landrover..no comparison, if landrover made planes we would all have holidays in sunny blackpool every year. cos no one would dare fly.lol
 
so explain to me which part of the boot floor is structural and holds my landy together cause atm i have no boot floor in and shes sitting on the drive with no problems dont think the body work has collapsed under the pressure of no boot floor!!! and a document that says that the boot floor cannot be rivited.

rivits are plenty strong, its a case of holding the boot floor down, with it rivited in place you wont be able to move it. . . id love to see you try take out rivited in floor with no tools, as its kinda what you getting at that they arnt strong enough to hold it in place!!!

and no there are not no planes, but planes are ten fold strong held together with rivits and not big special ones, just normal rivits. .
 
6.1 Vehicle Structure, Body Security and Condition

3. Check the condition of the body and chassis in the vicinity of the mounting points-Body condition

3 Any deliberate modification, excessive corrosion, damage, cracks or inadequate repair of a load bearing body or chassis member which seriously affects its strength within 30 cm of the body mountings.

12. Method of repair

It is essential that repairs to corroded areas are properly carried out. Only welding is acceptable for repairs to 'prescribed areas'.
Suitable materials of appropriate gauge and thickness should be used for repairs so that
- Any plating or welding extends to a sound part of a load bearing component, and
- The repair must be virtually as strong as the original structure
So only a continuous seam weld is acceptable for patch repairs, (even if the patch extends beyond the prescribed area) although spot welded joints are acceptable where they originally existed. (provied the original defective panel flange has been removed)
Stitch or plug welding is acceptable as an alternative to spot welding in these cases.


its in black and white mate....dont need to wave any bits of paper. its in the manual..simple as. oh and the fact i have been doing it for over 20 years you do tend to get an idea whats right or wrong..lol

oh and for the record..ordinary "rivits" are not used in the construction of airframes...they are a little more expensive than the ones you get from partco..and rather more precise in size and composition and are graded for strength and use etc.
 
Last edited:
6.1 Vehicle Structure, Body Security and Condition

3. Check the condition of the body and chassis in the vicinity of the mounting points-Body condition

3 Any deliberate modification, excessive corrosion, damage, cracks or inadequate repair of a load bearing body or chassis member which seriously affects its strength within 30 cm of the body mountings.

12. Method of repair

It is essential that repairs to corroded areas are properly carried out. Only welding is acceptable for repairs to 'prescribed areas'.
Suitable materials of appropriate gauge and thickness should be used for repairs so that
- Any plating or welding extends to a sound part of a load bearing component, and
- The repair must be virtually as strong as the original structure
So only a continuous seam weld is acceptable for patch repairs, (even if the patch extends beyond the prescribed area) although spot welded joints are acceptable where they originally existed. (provied the original defective panel flange has been removed)
Stitch or plug welding is acceptable as an alternative to spot welding in these cases.


its in black and white mate....dont need to wave any bits of paper. its in the manual..simple as. oh and the fact i have been doing it for over 20 years you do tend to get an idea whats right or wrong..lol

oh and for the record..ordinary "rivits" are not used in the construction of airframes...they are a little more expensive than the ones you get from partco..and rather more precise in size and composition and are graded for strength and use etc.

so hows this passed an MOT then?? im not bothered about welding the floor in, but if this passed and the guy says he did research into it, and its passed the MOT surely it can be done?? im going to guess he isnt the only person who has done it either

 
Any Disco will pass an MOT.. you just need to know the tester.

rivets are just not allowed.
The reason is the seatbelt anchor points are on the boot floor and that's why you fail on rust or fail for putting rivets.

Dont want to have that hassle?
take the seats and seatbelts off, then it will pass the mot even with a rusty floor.
 
[JP];802621 said:
Any Disco will pass an MOT.. you just need to know the tester.

rivets are just not allowed.
The reason is the seatbelt anchor points are on the boot floor and that's why you fail on rust or fail for putting rivets.

Dont want to have that hassle?
take the seats and seatbelts off, then it will pass the mot even with a rusty floor.

The seat belt mounts aren't on the floor, they pass through it. However, I think the forward corners of the floor are within 30cms of body mounts so any rust there could cause a fail.
If you have rusty wheel arches near the seat belt mounts then taking the rear seats out can get you a pass, I don't think you actually have to take the seat belts out as well...although, again, if the corrosion is within 30cms of the body mounts at the rear of the sills you are stuffed.
 
actually seatbelts are also mounted on the rear wheel arches as well. As it was pointed out to me a couple of weeks ago.
 

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