TMM

TMM

New Member
Hi.
All the doors open fine from the key apart from the boot door.
I read up on the forum about the small springs been a big use with the lock not working, so i went out and bought a one for the boot door.
I also read up about taking the rear badge from the boot door and spraying some wd40 in the hole and onto where the spring sits, and to my suprise the small spring is actually in tact and in working order but yet the boot door still will not open, the only way i can get it open is by reaching over the back seat and lifting the button and opening the door from the outside.
Today i noticed that when turning the key in the drivers door which unlocks all the other doors the boot button goes down(locked position) and when i lock the doors via the drivers door the boot button lift(unlocking position) so the button is working the opposite way around to all the other lock buttons, and yes you guessed it, still the door will not open from the outside.
The button does seem very easy to lift up and down so maybe something is missing i just dont know.
So your help would be very appreciated before i go insane.
 
TMM said:
Hi.
All the doors open fine from the key apart from the boot door.
I read up on the forum about the small springs been a big use with the lock not working, so i went out and bought a one for the boot door.
I also read up about taking the rear badge from the boot door and spraying some wd40 in the hole and onto where the spring sits, and to my suprise the small spring is actually in tact and in working order but yet the boot door still will not open, the only way i can get it open is by reaching over the back seat and lifting the button and opening the door from the outside.
Today i noticed that when turning the key in the drivers door which unlocks all the other doors the boot button goes down(locked position) and when i lock the doors via the drivers door the boot button lift(unlocking position) so the button is working the opposite way around to all the other lock buttons, and yes you guessed it, still the door will not open from the outside.
The button does seem very easy to lift up and down so maybe something is missing i just dont know.
So your help would be very appreciated before i go insane.
Click to expand...

How did this syndrome come up? was it fine before and just like that suddenly happenned or u can guess some reason...(i.e. somebody messed up with the wiring, fuses, relays, MFU,....did u give the car to somebody, etc).......if it just came from nowhere thats really strange:confused:

u can try to swap the wires at the actuator.......first u check which is the neutral and leave it there, swap the other two.
 
sierrafery said:
How did this syndrome come up? was it fine before and just like that suddenly happenned or u can guess some reason...(i.e. somebody messed up with the wiring, fuses, relays, MFU,....did u give the car to somebody, etc).......if it just came from nowhere thats really strange:confused:

u can try to swap the wires at the actuator.......first u check which is the neutral and leave it there, swap the other two.
Click to expand...

Hi.
Thanks for the reply .
I bought the car about 6 weeks ago and this issue was there when i bought it. I have only just got round to looking at it in the last few days.
 
TMM said:
Hi.
Thanks for the reply .
I bought the car about 6 weeks ago and this issue was there when i bought it. I have only just got round to looking at it in the last few days.
Click to expand...

Ok then...u can try the wire swap method....maybe somebody made a mistake sometimes and the previous owner didnt bother with it.......it's quite obvious thet the actuator motors are getting wrong the feed......unplug the connector from the actuator, identify the motor feeds for the lock/unlock commands.......u can use a multimeter or a check bulb and see where do it get feed whilst u lock/unlock the doors........then simply the one which works when u unlock must be swapped with the other one......u dont have to disturb the neutral.

Unfortunately i dont have wiring diagram for Disco1 to be more specific on this.......if u have and u are familiar with diagrams follow the path from the fusebox/MFU to the tailgate actuator and u can do measurements at the relays or other connectors.
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
Ok then...u can try the wire swap method....maybe somebody made a mistake sometimes and the previous owner didnt bother with it.......it's quite obvious thet the actuator motors are getting wrong the feed......unplug the connector from the actuator, identify the motor feeds for the lock/unlock commands.......u can use a multimeter or a check bulb and see where do it get feed whilst u lock/unlock the doors........then simply the one which works when u unlock must be swapped with the other one......u dont have to disturb the neutral.

Unfortunately i dont have wiring diagram for Disco1 to be more specific on this.......if u have and u are familiar with diagrams follow the path from the fusebox/MFU to the tailgate actuator and u can do measurements at the relays or other connectors.
Click to expand...

Thanks once again for the reply :)
Im not the best with electrics and wiring i must admit, but if i get hold of a wiring diagram i will follow your advice and repost back to you with the result :)
 
What is happing is the acuator is pushing out when the others are pulling in so this need to be reversed and the actuator operating rod needs to be out or in to match the others.

The rear door actuator is only a two wire circuit but out of synch. with the other four, it's easy to rectify, remove the door card you only need access to the lock edge of the door and you will see the actuator, unplug the keyed connection plug and make sure the door pin is up, operate the central locking so all door pins are up and reconnect the plug all the actuators "should" be now operate in synch.

If not remove the two actuator fixing screws and unhook the operating rod from the actuator, with the actuator loose operate the central locking so to unlock and reconnect the rod and refix the actuator.

You can see how the actuator works as it pops in and out it just all the actuators should be the same.

I have had to do this twice I think the actuator rod over runs it's travel or gets stuck who knows :)
 
Last edited:
discool said:
What is happing is the acuator is pushing out when the others are pulling in so this need to be reversed and the actuator operating rod needs to be out or in to match the others.

The rear door actuator is only a two wire circuit but out of synch. with the other four, it's easy to rectify, remove the door card you only need access to the lock edge of the door and you will see the actuator, unplug the keyed connection plug and make sure the door pin is up, operate the central locking so all door pins are up and reconnect the plug all the actuators "should" be now operate in synch.

If not remove the two actuator fixing screws and unhook the operating rod from the actuator, with the actuator loose operate the central locking so to unlock and reconnect the rod and refix the actuator.

You can see how the actuator works as it pops in and out it just all the actuators should be the same.

I have had to do this twice I think the actuator rod over runs it's travel or gets stuck who knows :)
Click to expand...

Hi Thanks for the help and tutorial on how to fix the issue.
I have tryed as you have suggested but i still have the same problem. :confused:
Im thinking maybe its the actual actuator, as the button for the lock seems to be very easy to move in and out.
 
The actuator was working albeit in the wrong direction, try reversing the plug connection it's a keyed plug and socket so you will have to modify it.
 
there are 2 springs within each door latch, 1 for the door latch and 1 for the child lock.

the child lock one is usually intact.

what you describe is the exact symptoms for a broken door latch spring.

ive only had to change the front 4 door springs my self and found them a little fiddly but easy to change as well..

i get the springs from evil bay here Land Rover Discovery Door Lock Repair Spring 5 door Set on eBay (end time 07-Jul-10 14:29:59 BST)

the springs come with the instructions on how to change them.

as for the electric side of things for my discovery m reg 94 it doesnt matter whether the one door latch is locked and the rest unlocked or visaversa by locking then unlocking they all pop back into sync. (the wires have a plug on them with bullet connectors made in such a way you cant reverse then)

another syptom of broken latch spring is when unlocking the button will pop up and go back down to lock position.

also by pulling button up and down manually you should feel a click as the locking mechanism switches from lock to unlock, if it doesnt then latch spring is broken.

ive chased rainbows changing central locking actuators adjusting till im blue in the face till a freind said its your latch spring.

an hour later bobs your uncle done.

i would always check the spring before attacking any wireing.
 
sounded exactly as mine at moment....

use key open driver door, boot door latch will go up, but goes back down while opening boot door (door not open)..........

have you tried using the key to open boot door??? When using key to open boot door, make sure key is turned anti-clockwise to the 'open' position and stay at that position while opening the boot door.....if you can open your boot door with the key in 'open' position...then it's definately the boot door spring.......and not the electrics

another symptom of boot door spring 'gone' is that when central locking opened the boot door (pin moved up).......as soon as you tried to open boot door from either inside or outside, the pin goes back down....hence door can't open......this is due to the small spring missing, hence unable to keep the pin in the upward position.....

hope this help...
 
Hi
1st can i ask how many of these small springs are in the boot locking mecanism?
The only one i can find is behind the landrover badge on the back door handle?
I have removed the badge and found that the spring was only rusty but in tact, i sprayed it with wd40.

Is there another spring like this one i have mentioned ?
 
Quick Update.
I have done as you suggested discool but I still the same issue.
I have also changed the Spring and still i have the problem.
It has me totally baffled now as to what it could be.
Help please lol.
 
take rear door card off and check the central locking motor. if it feels slack, change it. mine is doing the same, locks ok but wont open without the key, my motor is very slack so it will pull the button down but will not push button up
 
ginny said:
take rear door card off and check the central locking motor. if it feels slack, change it. mine is doing the same, locks ok but wont open without the key, my motor is very slack so it will pull the button down but will not push button up
Click to expand...

Just looked and the actuator and it feels very easy to move up and down with very little effort needed to move it. I have also notice there is no clunking sound when the button is up or down.
If i open one of the other doors and push the button down to lock or unlock the door there is a a bit effort required and there is a cluncking like sound so i know there working by this noise, where as with the boot there is nothing like there is on the other doors.
Any ideas from what i have just mentioned.
 
ginny said:
i would defo say central locking motor. can get them on ebay very cheap
Click to expand...

Just ordered one, will update this post and let you know how it goes.
Has anyone got a good blown up diagram of the back door locking mechanism so i can check to see if anything is missing?
 
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