Ask check each crimp carefully - doesn’t take much for a crimp to have poor conductivity. If in doubt just redo it

Also check the h4 connectors are actually connecting and you have continuity at each terminal when they are connected etc. Doesn’t take much for a spade connector to not ‘connect’ and cause issues.
 
Also it worth getting yourself some appropriate coloured small reels of auto cable - or you are going to end up with a total mish mash of colours and Future trouble shooting of anything will be a mare.

Cutting corners/bodgery etc is not a good idea imo
100% agreed!

I have legends for my relay boxes to tell me what relay does what and they're numbered with corresponding labels at the connector end.

Also a wiring diagram addition in my Haynes manual to make life easy.
 
I'm sure you've already thought of this, but the pin configuration on relays can differ. The ones you get in Halfords are differently arranged than the ones on those yellow relays the TD5 uses under the driver's seat. They're in the same physical positions but differ as to which ones are for the load and which for the exciter coil. As said above there's usually a little diagram embossed on the relay itself. Make sure the position of the wires in the relay holder corresponds to where you need them to be for the pins of that particular relay.

The receiver terminals in the relay holder can sometimes be got out by sliding something long and thin into the relay holder beside them and depressing the little tab which latches them into position. I have a small jewellery screwdriver for this.
 
Bloody hell. What was meant to be a simple 30min job has now become a huge hassle!

Ill run through it again on the bench at the weekend see whats what. Be nice to get it working properly.

Think il change that fuse holder too.
 
Is it the connection between the boomslang plug and the vehicle plug , If each is ok on there own , but not when married ? . Make up some spades and join the 2 just to test . maybe a connector not making contact in the ceramic
 
Bloody hell. What was meant to be a simple 30min job has now become a huge hassle!

Ill run through it again on the bench at the weekend see whats what. Be nice to get it working properly.

Think il change that fuse holder too.

Often nothing is as simple as it should be :(

Hope you get to the bottom of it.
 
I had several ‘Boomslang’ looms with poor crimps (e.g. no connectivity or just fell out of the relays or fuse holder) and both were also wired wrongly, which meant that the high beam flash function didn’t work.

Throw it away and either make your own loom or fit a Landreizger one. I did the latter and it has worked faultless for years.
 
Ive read that more and more recently...

Ive got enough componants here to sort this one out and eventually get it working. I just have quite low patience for leccy! I prefer spanners! At least you can hit them if they dont work :p
 
I had several ‘Boomslang’ looms with poor crimps (e.g. no connectivity or just fell out of the relays or fuse holder) and both were also wired wrongly, which meant that the high beam flash function didn’t work.

Throw it away and either make your own loom or fit a Landreizger one. I did the latter and it has worked faultless for years.

It was always going to happen really, made in China as usual, the first batches were to raved about as the best thing since sliced bread, much like early BritPart stuff and as batches sold the quality became more variable and the reputation of the brand was greatly affected by the failures.

I made my own and for the effort it takes to wire it all up properly, I wouldn't waste the money on something I could make myself for a fraction in parts as my labour is free to myself of course, clients are a different story.
 
No Defender had relays in the headlight circuits,

Td5 wiring harness diagram shows a relay for headlights.

Or is this a mistake in the Rave file?
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Cheers
 

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