flat
Well-Known Member
& you can do the above without putting loom back on the motor.
Just need 12v feeds/earths
Which you can do with a small 12v transformer, working on it laid out on the bench is much easier
Which you can do with a small 12v transformer, working on it laid out on the bench is much easier
flat
Well-Known Member
Ask check each crimp carefully - doesn’t take much for a crimp to have poor conductivity. If in doubt just redo it
Also check the h4 connectors are actually connecting and you have continuity at each terminal when they are connected etc. Doesn’t take much for a spade connector to not ‘connect’ and cause issues.
Also check the h4 connectors are actually connecting and you have continuity at each terminal when they are connected etc. Doesn’t take much for a spade connector to not ‘connect’ and cause issues.
100% agreed!
I have legends for my relay boxes to tell me what relay does what and they're numbered with corresponding labels at the connector end.
Also a wiring diagram addition in my Haynes manual to make life easy.
I'm sure you've already thought of this, but the pin configuration on relays can differ. The ones you get in Halfords are differently arranged than the ones on those yellow relays the TD5 uses under the driver's seat. They're in the same physical positions but differ as to which ones are for the load and which for the exciter coil. As said above there's usually a little diagram embossed on the relay itself. Make sure the position of the wires in the relay holder corresponds to where you need them to be for the pins of that particular relay.
The receiver terminals in the relay holder can sometimes be got out by sliding something long and thin into the relay holder beside them and depressing the little tab which latches them into position. I have a small jewellery screwdriver for this.
The receiver terminals in the relay holder can sometimes be got out by sliding something long and thin into the relay holder beside them and depressing the little tab which latches them into position. I have a small jewellery screwdriver for this.
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
I had several ‘Boomslang’ looms with poor crimps (e.g. no connectivity or just fell out of the relays or fuse holder) and both were also wired wrongly, which meant that the high beam flash function didn’t work.
Throw it away and either make your own loom or fit a Landreizger one. I did the latter and it has worked faultless for years.
Throw it away and either make your own loom or fit a Landreizger one. I did the latter and it has worked faultless for years.
It was always going to happen really, made in China as usual, the first batches were to raved about as the best thing since sliced bread, much like early BritPart stuff and as batches sold the quality became more variable and the reputation of the brand was greatly affected by the failures.
I made my own and for the effort it takes to wire it all up properly, I wouldn't waste the money on something I could make myself for a fraction in parts as my labour is free to myself of course, clients are a different story.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Td5 wiring harness diagram shows a relay for headlights.
Or is this a mistake in the Rave file?
Cheers
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
Most Defenders have a headlight relay, but it’s function is to turn the lights off when the ignition is off. It doesn’t do anything to reduce load on the switch.
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
It’s one of the ones in the fuse box yes.
