RangeRoller dt said:

Sound deadening and heat insulation. I've considered taking mine off as my diesel recovers from hot start much quicker with bonnet on catch because of the gap between the insulation. If I do you can have it, but it's a potch and you should be fine

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

Sound deadening and heat insulation. I've considered taking mine off as my diesel recovers from hot start much quicker with bonnet on catch because of the gap between the insulation. If I do you can have it, but it's a potch and you should be fine

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Now that is a new one. Remove acoustic shield to cure hot start problems. Now i have heard everything.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

It's not a cure but I find engine cools a lot quicker, and therefore will start, with bonnet open even a little bit. Have to leave it a while if closed I'm convinced the 'insulation' - there's a clue - helps keeps heat in.

Bear in mind that (until I'm confident to change my FIP/chains) my current hot start solution is an emergency bottle of cold water in the boot! Lol.

Not Wammers approved, but works for the moment

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Why don't you just retime the static? Or fit a hotfix in the interim.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

Would you trust me to butcher into your wiring loom?... Best not

Static timing is good point, given that I have the help of everyone on here. Do you think I could pull it off without a diagnostic to check modulation?

I wish I'd found this place when @JohnnyCrash was here.

Click to expand...

wammers said:

If static is done correctly modulation should be fine. You need several special tools to do static. And of course the ability and knowledge to do it. On your car you have to consider that dependent on mileage your injection pump and injectors maybe getting tired.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

After 2months I'm nearly there. Stàrting to get my head around it and will have @Bagshot s DTI gauge/timing kit this week.

I understand how to take the whole head off so I can see where the cylinder is and set TDC on from there with new chains.
Problem is I've 142,000miles and only Intend to retime the FIP to account for mileage/slack for now. I can't judge TDC from cam as chain slack may mean cylinder is out and visa versa
.*. - how do I get an accurate zero on the gauge from FIP? Some say turn crank anti-clockwise but you previously mentioned clockwise only (or is that when chains are off only)

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Position of cams is how you tell you are at number one firing TDC. You use the cam positions to fit locking pin in flywheel. Cam timing will not be miles out. Read Rave and follow it to set DTI to zero and fit lock pin, then read pump cam lift, it is fairly easy to do.

Click to expand...