Datatek
Well-Known Member
The rolling road must tell lies then
On strokers, tuned inlet tracts and exhausts were what made the difference.
On strokers, tuned inlet tracts and exhausts were what made the difference.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
The rolling road must tell lies then
No,that's why without even rejetting my zxr1100 with a strait through pipe and k&n filter had more hp on a dyno
even got the print outs somewhere .
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Re-jet = more fuel, I would bet the K&N made no contribution.No,that's why without even rejetting my zxr1100 with a strait through pipe and k&n filter had more hp on a dyno
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
I did say without rejetting more the fact of de restricting the exhaust helped allowing a better flow.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Miss read it. De restricting/tuning the exhaust to aid scavenging has more effect then fitting a K&N.
I was not referring to a standard engine i was referring to a full blown race engine. Without modification a standard engine will show no improvement that is measurable by fitting a K&N filter.
No,that's why without even rejetting my zxr1100 with a strait through pipe and k&n filter had more hp on a dyno
The pipe did that not the K&N.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
that I do agree, but upping the fuel and exit it would need a better intake you take a air filter off indeed but that won't stop dirt ingress would it .
It was not normal in my day to have an air filter fitted to many motorcycle. I have a 650 CB in the garage that does not like it without the filters fitted. K&Ns are well made and well presented but not all they are claimed to be. There are many standard filters that perform better. And they can be tapped out unlike a clogged K&N.
Any oil coated filter will ruin a hotwire sensor. But better yet, the oils coat the sensor which causes the engine to lean out, in a turbo engine this is a very bad thing.
Because idiots think loud = fast.
Unfortunately K&N do not spend billions developing the engine, they spend about £5 to make a more porous filter. Yes it lets air in quicker, but that is because it doesn't filter as well (hence the oil). Unfortunately on a high pressure intake (ala, turbo) you're sucking through that oil/grunge into your engine. Which does it no favours but also coats the hotwire in oil. That is a fun way to ruin an engine.
A brand new OEM filter is a better investment for more power than a cone or panel filter. It costs me £12 for a new gen OEM filter. I go through 1 ever 6k miles. Still works out cheaper than buying some daftly expensive aftermarket job that boosts no power and in some cases can reduce power (cone filters, for example).
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Changing the airfilter would've made little to no difference. I've seen a batch of vehicles with a mix of filter types (OEM, cheapo replacements, high performance dry and oiled, plus cones from £8 up to £120). The cones consistently lost power (they are a compromise part, when you have a cramped engine bay, cone it up as usually they are all that'll fit), the rest were the same as OEM or made so little difference either way you could replicate the difference just by taking a dump. It wasn't the most scientific tests in the world because the dyno wasn't in a perfectly controllable environment (temp varied by about 5C through the day).
It is a aural improvement to replace the air filter. It looks and sounds faster so it must be faster. I remember one fad in the barry scene where they'd drill holes in the airbox so it sounded louder, but barry found the biggest noise improvement came from drilling holes in the clean side of the filter. So it was no uncommon to come across airboxes riddled with holes that filtered sweet FA. Interestingly enough this was also the first performance mod a barry ever made. The biggest laugh was the barry who'd put a cone filter in their airbox.
