FlyingDutchman
Active Member
Had a sticky brake, i.e. a sticky (front) caliper. Took the wheels off and started to undo the brake lines. First the off-side ones, then the near-side ones. The brake pipes were recently re-done (not by me, is still a bit out of my league yet) Then I struggled to undo one of the near-side fittings on the caliper. The spanner started to slip. This line hadn't been changed by the look of it, and I didn't want to create an additional problem. So I decided to leave the line on, and clean the calipers "in situ".
This worked pretty well. Made a photo to aid this thread for future reference. The rag is soaked in clean brake fluid, and I gently forced it around the caliper with a bend piece of iron ( coat hanger really). The corroded bit I polished with wire wool as much as I could.
Next the bleeding.
Done as Haynes said. Started on the pax (!) side ( this one was easy cause I hadn't un-done these lines. Finished on the Driver's side. Also bleeded both inner-side together, then the outer side.
Read Jim's thread, and also tried the clever back-bleed way, but think I couldn't produce enough pressure. So I bled the system (both fronts only). Pedal still to the floor. Bled again, same result. Third bled a bit better but stil not as before.
Ok, part result. Got no sticking brakes no more !! But the reverse, trouble stopping!!
Right, here my questions:
Obviously I need to bleed a bit more. But when I start on the pax side, full fluid from all valves comes from the start. Same at the driver side, besides 1. The top inner one seems to be the trouble maker. It does not produce anymore bubbles, but neither lots of fluid on the bleed (not like the other inside one that bleeds like a ......)
1- am I correct to narow it down to 1. Should I just bleed this one more or do they ALL come into play
2- Can I concentrate on that one, or MUST I follow the sequence
3- Will the sysem bleed itself ? I need to leave the car for a week anyway (think not personally)
4- anything else
Or do I just have to pump/bleed all ore and more. It looks like all are bleeded but oviously not.
ps. do not have the cylinders extend all the way to the disc. You'll have trouble forcing them back.
This worked pretty well. Made a photo to aid this thread for future reference. The rag is soaked in clean brake fluid, and I gently forced it around the caliper with a bend piece of iron ( coat hanger really). The corroded bit I polished with wire wool as much as I could.
Next the bleeding.
Done as Haynes said. Started on the pax (!) side ( this one was easy cause I hadn't un-done these lines. Finished on the Driver's side. Also bleeded both inner-side together, then the outer side.
Read Jim's thread, and also tried the clever back-bleed way, but think I couldn't produce enough pressure. So I bled the system (both fronts only). Pedal still to the floor. Bled again, same result. Third bled a bit better but stil not as before.
Ok, part result. Got no sticking brakes no more !! But the reverse, trouble stopping!!
Right, here my questions:
Obviously I need to bleed a bit more. But when I start on the pax side, full fluid from all valves comes from the start. Same at the driver side, besides 1. The top inner one seems to be the trouble maker. It does not produce anymore bubbles, but neither lots of fluid on the bleed (not like the other inside one that bleeds like a ......)
1- am I correct to narow it down to 1. Should I just bleed this one more or do they ALL come into play
2- Can I concentrate on that one, or MUST I follow the sequence
3- Will the sysem bleed itself ? I need to leave the car for a week anyway (think not personally)
4- anything else
Or do I just have to pump/bleed all ore and more. It looks like all are bleeded but oviously not.
ps. do not have the cylinders extend all the way to the disc. You'll have trouble forcing them back.