Datatek
Well-Known Member
Xtrail
Fecking heap of ****, I had one and got rid to buy the P38. The P38 has been much more reliable and cheaper to maintain.Handbrakes don't work well enough to pass the MOT on the Xtrail, turbo & intercooler failures, random electrical problems, clutch etc all in 12 months. Parts prices are horrendous, they were talking €2K for the turbo.
Oh and Nissan is no longer Japanese, it's 51% owned by Renault.
Go look at some Nissan forums before you buy.
Last edited:
Xtrail
Handbrakes don't work well enough to pass the MOT on the Xtrail, turbo & intercooler failures, random electrical problems, clutch etc all in 12 months. Parts prices are horrendous, they were talking 2K for the turbo.
Oh and Nissan is no longer Japanese, it's 51% owned by Renault.
Go look at some Nissan forums before you buy.
+1 I've known Xtrail owners have knackered gearbox and faulty injectors taking weeks even months to fix
Hi Keith
Thanks for that, I thought Nissans were good, what year was yours.
I have done loads to the P38, new bags and shocks, radius arm bushes, alternator, starter motor, front oil seal, blend motors and engine cooling bits new tyres etc I think I will be able to pass it on with a clear conscience.
Will check out the xtrail forums
Thanks for that, I thought Nissans were good, what year was yours.
I have done loads to the P38, new bags and shocks, radius arm bushes, alternator, starter motor, front oil seal, blend motors and engine cooling bits new tyres etc I think I will be able to pass it on with a clear conscience.
Will check out the xtrail forums
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Seems a long time ago now, I bought it in 2007, it was 18 months old with 11,000Km's on the clock. Fortunately it came with a 12 month warranty, I kept it less than a year, got rid before the warranty expired as it had had €5k of repairs in 11 months.
By comparison, I've probably spent less than £1K on the P38 in 5 years and despite all the niggles I complain of it has never let me down.
You would be better off fixing your P38.
How much do you want for the P38?
If you are determined to go Jap, look at Pajero/Shogun, I've had 2, never a problem, I'd have another but they are too much money and at my age they will not do HP.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
You have done all the hard work. It can only be overfuel or lack of air. That could be caused by MAP sensor reading wrong. If the MAP sensor is telling the ECU there is more manifold pressure than there actually is it will overfuel.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Could be a few things. Could be MAP sensor reading wrong could be waste gate on turbo opening to soon and dumping the air the fuel has already been metered for. But that is unusual. Could be intercooler restricted not allowing an high enough volume through quickly enough for the sudden RPM fuel request. If you have done all that work it seems a shame to get shut of it if it can be sorted and run right.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It needs looking at on diagnostics live data.
BTW running much better in terms of throttle response since blanking off the AGR valve, especially from cold........
I have sourced a very cheap plastic manifold with the correct agr valve, would it be worth swapping that over, considering how gunked up the current manifold is?
Thanks
I have sourced a very cheap plastic manifold with the correct agr valve, would it be worth swapping that over, considering how gunked up the current manifold is?
Thanks
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Swapping the manifold to the correct one will not do any harm oh and it's EGR not AGR
Swapping the manifold to the correct one will not do any harm oh and it's EGR not AGR
AGR is the German version. Exhaust = Abgas. Exhaust gas recirculation valve in German is Abgasrückführventil hence AGR valve.
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
Ash, I don't mind meeting up to have a look at the live data, but - whether we'll be able to make any sense of it is another thing as I don't have an oil burner so I have no base-line figures to compare it to. Last time I looked at your car I could see the MAP and pressure sensors were returning a reading which looked sensible compared to engine load - but whether they are right is another thing.
It being a very old engine and looking at the state of the EGR and internal manifold it maybe just ****e build up in the ports and around the valves not allowing the engine to breath. It does not matter how much manifold pressure you have if the air can't get in fast enough.
Hi Steve
Yes I remember it all seemed ok, thanks very much for the offer. perhaps a beer and chat is overdue anyway
Wammers, will I be able to access the the valves through the ports to see how bad they are.
Also if I do go down the renovation route Ashcrofts for the gearbox, does anyone know a good source for an engine?......broad question I know
Yes I remember it all seemed ok, thanks very much for the offer. perhaps a beer and chat is overdue anyway
Wammers, will I be able to access the the valves through the ports to see how bad they are.
Also if I do go down the renovation route Ashcrofts for the gearbox, does anyone know a good source for an engine?......broad question I know
Datatek
Well-Known Member
New engine? Why? How many miles has it done?? As for the gearbox, I'd fit a secondhand ZF4HP24, stronger then the HP22 and much cheaper than going to Ashcrofts for a recon.
With the manifold off you can see down the ports. If you try to clean anything turn engine clockwise to close each valve before to try cleaning, a decoke brush on a drill and a suitable tube attached to vac will clean a lot of **** out. Suck any debris clear with a vac before turning engine to do next valve and port. What can be done in that way will be limited though. That may not be the entire problem but it has to help. Put rags in nearby open ports to stop **** falling into the cylinders. But remove before turning engine again then replace as you proceed. If you fit a plastic manifold you will have to change the studs in the head.
Last edited:
