J

joshydee

New Member
actually feeling like crying after all the work i have put into doing this engine change, think i might have damaged the pilot bearing while installing the engine.
Basically Car won't go into gear with the engine running, i have fully bled the clutch and seem to be getting enough movement via the slave cylinder so in theory should be disengaging the clutch fully.

If i stop the engine and select a gear and leave the clutch depressed car starts to creep on startup. Sounds like clutch isn't fully disengaged however need to release it much further before the clutch properly engages to allow the car to drive forward.

From what ive read on the internet it sounds like the pilot bearing that might be damaged, anyone any ideas? i feel the engine might need to come back out again which is worrying me :(

any ideas guys?
regards
josh
 
joshydee said:
actually feeling like crying after all the work i have put into doing this engine change, think i might have damaged the pilot bearing while installing the engine.
Basically Car won't go into gear with the engine running, i have fully bled the clutch and seem to be getting enough movement via the slave cylinder so in theory should be disengaging the clutch fully.

If i stop the engine and select a gear and leave the clutch depressed car starts to creep on startup. Sounds like clutch isn't fully disengaged however need to release it much further before the clutch properly engages to allow the car to drive forward.

From what ive read on the internet it sounds like the pilot bearing that might be damaged, anyone any ideas? i feel the engine might need to come back out again which is worrying me :(

any ideas guys?
regards
josh
Click to expand...



I converted a v8 petrol to diesel about ten years ago, the engine was a nissan, had a similar problem it turned out to be the clutch slave push rod, it was to short, took the rod out and welded a longer peace to the end job done. it may be thats your problem
 
Did you use the flywheel from your old engine ? if not it's possible there is a variation in thickness in which case the above post regarding length of the push rod may be right.
I have also seen similar problems when the petal springs in the pressure plate weaken, did you fit a new clutch.
 
Just read your previous thread regarding bleeding the clutch, air in the system could also be at fault.
Never did trust those auto bleeders, best way is still the old way :)
 
i used the old flywheel yeh. If the spigot bearing was damaged would i not be able to get it into gear? ive bled it again but air seems to keep coming out even though the reservoir is full, and when the pedal is pressed the push rod moves plenty.
 
If there is still air in the system you will get a fall off of pressure when you depress the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder works like a bicycle pump the slide inside the slave has a rubber grommet which causes the pressure as it moves up the tube to increase, the movement up the tube is the same every time you press the pedal, so behind the start point which is unused becomes pitted, if at any point the grommet moves back further and catches these pits it will become damaged and allow air to ingress, if this is what has happened you have two options buy a repair kit or I would recommend renew slave.
 
joshydee said:
i used the old flywheel yeh. If the spigot bearing was damaged would i not be able to get it into gear? ive bled it again but air seems to keep coming out even though the reservoir is full, and when the pedal is pressed the push rod moves plenty.
Click to expand...
i would,nt have thought the spigot end bearing woz at fault that supports the main out put shaft but if the clutch release bearing is a different matter if whilst putting the engine in the release bearing has been knocked by the main shaft it may have came uncliped , just a thought :eek:
 
Spigot bush would not be your problem, using your old clutch maybe. Get the clutch bled properly first.
 
do you guys think it might be drawing air into the system while bleeding because of the repair kit i fitted to the slave cylinder? should i just buy a new slave? are the ones on ebay ok for 15 quid?
 
As I have posted before, the chances are that the displacement of the master cylinder is insufficient to move the slave cylinder fully forward so there is a small pocket which is holding air. Only way to do it is to power bleed it which will force more fluid through than the stroke of the pedal can do. If the spigot bush was worn, it would not affect the clutch release and engagement as it would only affect radial movement. I would bet three pints of Guiness that it's air. If the pedal is pumped rapidy down to the floor, I bet you can build the pressure up. I have had this problem quite a few times over the years.
 
yeh ive tried pumping the pedal, and watched under the car while somebody pressed the pedal and it seems to move plenty enough. The strange fault i was describing really is that the point at which the clutch actually 'bites' is very high. So you get the same degree of creeping all the way up the travel until near the top where the car actually pulls away. if i used a power bleeder where would i bleed from?
 
The Gunson bleed kit is pretty good. It has a large bottle to hold the clean fluid and a collection of caps to fit the Master Cylinder. An air hose with a tyre connector is fitted to a tyre at around 25p.s.i and this pressurises the fluid in the bottle and obviously the Master Cylinder. Open the bleed nipple, the fluid gushes through taking the air out. When the fluid is free of bubbles, lock the bleed screw. Another piece of kit works on vacuum. Most accesory shops have the Gunson whic is probably less than 25quid. Great for replacing the brake fluid too as the bottle holds well over a pint.
 
yeh can see that, ill borrow a power bleeder off a mate i think tomorrow, could the air not be coming from the slave cylinder i repaired though? how far should the push rod be pushed out of the cylinder when the clutch is pressed?
 
If you put the seal on the piston the right way round, air should not get in, especially if the bleed screw is tight. Don't know the stroke of the piston travel as it's relative to the cylinder length. Just give it a go and let us know what happens.
 
Right ive bled the system up, no air in it. I can drive the car up the drive in 1st gear providing i put it in gear before starting the engine, then it creeps... My clutch biting point is still pretty high, so i know its not related to the slave cylinder. Something must be dragging in the clutch or i must have done something wrong. What could it be?
 
I had exactly the same poblem you described. I ended up replacing master cylinder, slave cylinder but this did not solve the problem. Bear in mind it was a transit engine in a Classic Range Rover. Anyway, I finally fixed the problem when I discovered that the adapter plate dimensions were preventing the clutch from fully disengaging. A solution as mentioned above is to lengthen the steel rod that in contact with the slave cylinder. However, I found that this solution caused the rod to then wear on the side of the slave cylinder evenually causing it to fail. The long term solution was to lengthen the "fulcrum" rod (LT95 gearbox) by 8mm and this solved problem permently. This was acheived without removing either gearbox or engine by crudely cutting access hole through bottom of bellhousing, slackening the engine to gearbox bolts and removing slave cylinder.

Hope this helps
 
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