Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Decided to bin the rear donut so bought the right replacement flange to fit a 200 TDI prop
And the prop itself:
Pretty easy job to do, the only pain in the arse bit is the centre spigot that has to be remoced from the old flange to get at the bolt, used a slide hammer and loads of heat and it finally came out
And the prop itself:
Pretty easy job to do, the only pain in the arse bit is the centre spigot that has to be remoced from the old flange to get at the bolt, used a slide hammer and loads of heat and it finally came out
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Developed a leak from the front OS driveshaft
Changed the oil seal using this tool a mate fabbed up:
Photos are a bit crap - had the wrong settings on the camera, oops...
First job was to remove the wheel, caliper, carrier, disk, and unclip the ABS line...
Then I had to fight with the hub, when I replaced it a year back I completely forgot to copper slip the back face so it had welded itself to the steering knuckle... FBH and Drift soon sorted that problem, and the hub, CV, and shaft slid out easily...
I could now see the old seal, it wasn't completely shot but had a steady weep, I'd already cleaned up a lot of crap and oil from around it:
Popped that out using a small crowbar. Greased up the new seal, then tamped it in using the bodge tool and a rubber mallet:
Fed the hub & shaft back in and reassembled it all.
Easy peasy.
Changed the oil seal using this tool a mate fabbed up:
Photos are a bit crap - had the wrong settings on the camera, oops...
First job was to remove the wheel, caliper, carrier, disk, and unclip the ABS line...
Then I had to fight with the hub, when I replaced it a year back I completely forgot to copper slip the back face so it had welded itself to the steering knuckle... FBH and Drift soon sorted that problem, and the hub, CV, and shaft slid out easily...
I could now see the old seal, it wasn't completely shot but had a steady weep, I'd already cleaned up a lot of crap and oil from around it:
Popped that out using a small crowbar. Greased up the new seal, then tamped it in using the bodge tool and a rubber mallet:
Fed the hub & shaft back in and reassembled it all.
Easy peasy.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Since the remap the clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th so decided to get something a bit more meaty....
Rakeway solid flywheel, uprated clutch, and cast ali release bearing...
Hoping to use a lift this time to do the swap out, doing my gearbox on the drive last time was a mare
Rakeway solid flywheel, uprated clutch, and cast ali release bearing...
Hoping to use a lift this time to do the swap out, doing my gearbox on the drive last time was a mare
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
I've been driving around with 2 broken exhaust manifold studs for a while, and pestering a mate about creating a stainless steel tubular manifold for a while....
Well, my mate has created the manifold, and this evening it is going into guinea pig testing on my engine! :tup: :tup: :tup:
So this morning I started the strip down....
After giving everything a chance to soak in (A LOT OF) plus gas for a while....
First remove the turbo heat shield, disconnect the turbo inlet hose behind the MAF, disconnect the turbo outlet hose, disconnect the vac hoses from the turbo and inlet hose, undo the turbo oil feed banjo & oil drain pipes, and unfasten the downpipe....
Undo the turbo to manifold nuts, I used a 13mm cranked spanner to get to the bottom one, the whole turbo assembly should then just lift out.
This is what you'll then see in the engine bay - at this point I removed the lifting bracket just to make access a little easier.
Thanks to the plus gas all of the stud nuts cracked off without issue, the only odd one was the one I've got an extenstion/wobble on in the above photo.... for some reason this nut was 12mm, but all the rest are 13. I suspect whoever attacked this last time couldn't get onto a 13 in there so fitted a 12mm nut - bizarre!
Manifold came off a treat - it has a very mild warp.
Now to tackle the two broken studs.... I bought a 4.5mm left handed drill bit hoping that it would wind out them out, after giving them a good wallop with a centre punch I got the bit on them but it just drilled in and they didn't unwind. So, out came the easy outs...
And they wound out first time.
Two new STOCK studs in, I've heard so much conflicting evidence about uprated studs that I figured I'd spend £3 instead of £40.
At this point I decided not to tempt fate and try remove the other studs.... I might change my mind when my mate shows up with the new manifold later :lol1: :lol1:
As you can see in the photos, I used a LOT of plus gas, soaked everything at every stage, and it really paid off.
Well, my mate has created the manifold, and this evening it is going into guinea pig testing on my engine! :tup: :tup: :tup:
So this morning I started the strip down....
After giving everything a chance to soak in (A LOT OF) plus gas for a while....
First remove the turbo heat shield, disconnect the turbo inlet hose behind the MAF, disconnect the turbo outlet hose, disconnect the vac hoses from the turbo and inlet hose, undo the turbo oil feed banjo & oil drain pipes, and unfasten the downpipe....
Undo the turbo to manifold nuts, I used a 13mm cranked spanner to get to the bottom one, the whole turbo assembly should then just lift out.
This is what you'll then see in the engine bay - at this point I removed the lifting bracket just to make access a little easier.
Thanks to the plus gas all of the stud nuts cracked off without issue, the only odd one was the one I've got an extenstion/wobble on in the above photo.... for some reason this nut was 12mm, but all the rest are 13. I suspect whoever attacked this last time couldn't get onto a 13 in there so fitted a 12mm nut - bizarre!
Manifold came off a treat - it has a very mild warp.
Now to tackle the two broken studs.... I bought a 4.5mm left handed drill bit hoping that it would wind out them out, after giving them a good wallop with a centre punch I got the bit on them but it just drilled in and they didn't unwind. So, out came the easy outs...
And they wound out first time.
Two new STOCK studs in, I've heard so much conflicting evidence about uprated studs that I figured I'd spend £3 instead of £40.
At this point I decided not to tempt fate and try remove the other studs.... I might change my mind when my mate shows up with the new manifold later :lol1: :lol1:
As you can see in the photos, I used a LOT of plus gas, soaked everything at every stage, and it really paid off.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Managed to swap out all but three studs, got to the point of starting to round the rear nut with the spanner I was using - think I might give em another go with a ring spanner over the rear one next....
Looks a bit cleaner now, but scotchbrite isn't touching the sooting on the rear port, need some wire wool or fine grit paper, but not got any to hand :/
Hmmm, pretty sure there aren't supposed to be 2 gaskets fitted! One of them has delaminated.
Looks a bit cleaner now, but scotchbrite isn't touching the sooting on the rear port, need some wire wool or fine grit paper, but not got any to hand :/
Hmmm, pretty sure there aren't supposed to be 2 gaskets fitted! One of them has delaminated.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Fully cleaned
Shiny new toy :tup: :tup:
All done :biggrin:
Went for a burn and wow, it's even quicker than before - not just saying that, it really is - blew the turbo hose off because in my rush I hadn't fastened it with the hose tool just a screwdriver... but it's faaaaaaast :lol1:
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Picked up a Warn XD9000i that I won on ebay today, had a really good chat with the seller who was a top bloke - not bad for 80 notes!
Here's the beastie:
Main obvious problem was that the clutch lever for the free spool was missing, you can see that the area of housing is damaged where the detent screw fits for the lever. So I've ordered a new housing assembly which comes with lever and gaskets from Devon 4x4.
Removed the 10 allen bolts holding the gear assembly to see what state the planetary gears were in - first impression was that the grease was very hard but what I could see of the gears looked good:
Hex shaft and 'drive splined' look good but again gummed up with old grease:
Top cover off and the solenoids are in amazingly good shape:
Dissasembled the gear assembly and cleaned off the excess grease - all the gears operate well and there's no damage (had some lubrication for me too):
Got the motor housing cover off after a fight, the long bolts that hold it on were in a state and took some extracting, the cover itself needed lots of tapping with a rubber mallet to free it up. A whole pile of grey crap came out - looks to be remnants of dissimilar metal corrosion from the motor end cap:
The bearing that sits on the end of the motor shaft next to where the brushes contact is siezed:
The end cap itself is very corroded:
The winch came with this isolating solenoid which I may reuse.
Got a couple of problems to sort out, the two lower allen bolts that hold the end plates to the bottom tray of the solenoid pack are completely seized in by dissimilar metal corrosion and have rounded - suspect I'm going to have to drill them out.
Here's the beastie:
Main obvious problem was that the clutch lever for the free spool was missing, you can see that the area of housing is damaged where the detent screw fits for the lever. So I've ordered a new housing assembly which comes with lever and gaskets from Devon 4x4.
Removed the 10 allen bolts holding the gear assembly to see what state the planetary gears were in - first impression was that the grease was very hard but what I could see of the gears looked good:
Hex shaft and 'drive splined' look good but again gummed up with old grease:
Top cover off and the solenoids are in amazingly good shape:
Dissasembled the gear assembly and cleaned off the excess grease - all the gears operate well and there's no damage (had some lubrication for me too):
Got the motor housing cover off after a fight, the long bolts that hold it on were in a state and took some extracting, the cover itself needed lots of tapping with a rubber mallet to free it up. A whole pile of grey crap came out - looks to be remnants of dissimilar metal corrosion from the motor end cap:
The bearing that sits on the end of the motor shaft next to where the brushes contact is siezed:
The end cap itself is very corroded:
The winch came with this isolating solenoid which I may reuse.
Got a couple of problems to sort out, the two lower allen bolts that hold the end plates to the bottom tray of the solenoid pack are completely seized in by dissimilar metal corrosion and have rounded - suspect I'm going to have to drill them out.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Some more work on the Winch....
Drilled out the seized/rounded end plate bolts, this meant I could get the drum off and remove the wire rope...
Also allowed me to knock the motor out of the end plate, it was pretty solidly in the bearing...
Degreased all the planet gears using gunk and white spirit, then gave them a healthy coating of light oil to inhibit rusting...
Next job is to repaint.
Drilled out the seized/rounded end plate bolts, this meant I could get the drum off and remove the wire rope...
Also allowed me to knock the motor out of the end plate, it was pretty solidly in the bearing...
Degreased all the planet gears using gunk and white spirit, then gave them a healthy coating of light oil to inhibit rusting...
Next job is to repaint.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
The knackered bearing on the end of the motor shaft really didn't want to come off by being pulled, prised, or twisted, even had the MAPP gas on it to try and expand it enough to move...
So clamped it in my vice and got the grinder to it...
Off in seconds
Here's the new bearing pushed onto the end of the motor shaft:
Then I thought I'd better have a look at cleaning up the VERY corroded motor end cap - they are impossible to source new here in the UK. So I made an improvised way of clamping it down that would be easy to get at all the angles:
Started to come up a treat after not long with a wire brush attachement on the Makita:
Think I'll paint it up and fill the crack with sealant.
Almost like new:
First coat of satin black...
So clamped it in my vice and got the grinder to it...
Off in seconds
Here's the new bearing pushed onto the end of the motor shaft:
Then I thought I'd better have a look at cleaning up the VERY corroded motor end cap - they are impossible to source new here in the UK. So I made an improvised way of clamping it down that would be easy to get at all the angles:
Started to come up a treat after not long with a wire brush attachement on the Makita:
Think I'll paint it up and fill the crack with sealant.
Almost like new:
First coat of satin black...
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Can't get the hex rod out of the break assembly, had plus gas on it, MAPP gas on it, FBH on it, but no joy at all - just going to leave well enough alone - can still get the assembly in bits to clean it.
Did some more painting, including the drum...
Wasn't expecting the lacquer to make the bits this shiny...
3 coats applied.
Did some more painting, including the drum...
Wasn't expecting the lacquer to make the bits this shiny...
3 coats applied.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Well, the good news is that the motor and solenoid pack work, I put the winch back together minus the gearbox because I'm still waiting for a gasket to arrive :tup: :tup:
One of the solenoids is a bit sticky but I'm hoping it might free up.
Bad news is that because I didn't have the gearbox on, I got a bit giddy and the hex shaft and break assembly wind out from the motor couple, which has just stripped all the circlip retaining lugs off the end of the break assembly.
Unless I can find a used spare this is going to cost me about £100 :sad:
Kicking myself.
One of the solenoids is a bit sticky but I'm hoping it might free up.
Bad news is that because I didn't have the gearbox on, I got a bit giddy and the hex shaft and break assembly wind out from the motor couple, which has just stripped all the circlip retaining lugs off the end of the break assembly.
Unless I can find a used spare this is going to cost me about £100 :sad:
Kicking myself.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Bought some new stainless fasteners, the retaining bolts are mild steel but a dollop of copper slip should stop any corrosion.
You can see where I had to destroy the existing nuts so they'd open out a bit and release the broken bolt shafts, the remains of the dissimilar metal corrosion is pretty obvious on the threads - once the nut was opened up the studs wound out with a stilson. Had to unpick all the corrosion round the nut with a sewing needle! Took an age.
You can see where I had to destroy the existing nuts so they'd open out a bit and release the broken bolt shafts, the remains of the dissimilar metal corrosion is pretty obvious on the threads - once the nut was opened up the studs wound out with a stilson. Had to unpick all the corrosion round the nut with a sewing needle! Took an age.
