Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #321

OK, so...

Main cap #6 off, crank looks fine:

Bearing has very slight wear, and some slight scoring:

All main and the conrod caps off, and crank lifted out, all the bearings are in reasonably good shape bar number 5 main cap:

Some crud and a big score on number 5, wonder if it's a piece of follower coating:

View into the block, no signs of other damage to number 5 main shell:

Shells and thrusts removed:

Here's one of the big end shells:

And number 5 journal on the crank:

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #322

Think it'll be OK to give the innards a flush with some clean parrafin?

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #323

are you polishing crank before you refit it

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #324

jamesmartin said:

are you polishing crank before you refit it

Click to expand...

Hadn't planned to James, was just about to go and refit it all now...

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #325

I'm planning to get the bottom end back together tonight and ready to lift back in...

 

Dr_evil

Banned

• Jul 7, 2014

• #326

Bennehboy said:

Hadn't planned to James, was just about to go and refit it all now...

Click to expand...

You can give it a quick rub using WD40 or cutting paste, machine lube, oil etc and some 2000 or 2500 grit glasspaper, I used 2000 on my crank before fitting it then gave it a good wash with WD40 to make sure all the swarf was gone

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #327

Didn't have any to hand and needed to get cracked on, worst comes to worst I'll be doing the job again lol.

So....

Inside of block swilled out with parrafin and blown out.... new shells fitted to conrods and crank journals, thrusts in place:

Looked like it was going to rain so got stuck in, caps and shells on and torqued, conrod caps and shells on and torqued, new rear crack seal on and torqued:

Just in time for it to start lashing it down.

 

Dr_evil

Banned

• Jul 7, 2014

• #328

you not using assembly lube ?

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #329

Fresh engine oil.

 

Dr_evil

Banned

• Jul 7, 2014

• #330

fair enough, you've probably already checked the main caps but if not double check them with the torque wrench slowly, a lot slower than you would for wheels just to make sure they haven't seated in a bit further and loosened up

I lost about a quarter turn on one of the chevy ones just due to it slowly seating itself after original torquing and smacking with the dead blow

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 7, 2014

• #331

OK thanks for the tip.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 8, 2014

• #332

Cleaned and refitted the oil cooler, rotary, and main filter housings:

Made a start on cleaning the block face, slow going...

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #333

Rotated the engine to eyeball piston protrusion (going to DTI it later) just to make sure none of the rods are bent - would expect the piston to not lift to full height if that was the case.

Anyhow, all appear ok, but..... Number 1 the piston head is ever so slightly higher at the front than the back - this is the most worn cylinder btw - honing only barely visible at the top end of the pot.

This picture may show it, but it's kind of hard to take a pic of:

This is the piston that had the most crud built up on it at the same side when I first took the head off, see here:

Should I be worried?

 

Last edited: Jul 9, 2014

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #334

Some pics looking down the bore:

Rear and left:

Right side:

I lifted all the pistons to top and hand pushed them about to see if there was any rocking, and got no rock on all the pistons, but a very small amount of movement on the rings.

Think I'll remove piston 1 and check the small end bush/wrist pin.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #335

Pulled the piston, can't see any play damage/blueing to the wrist pin/small end bush, but there's a definite rime of soot at the piston side that's sitting higher.

Going to clean that off and stick it back in the bore to see if it sits any differently.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #336

Pulled the gudgeon out and checked the conrod flatness and it's fine.

Had a closer look at the piston, and there's obvious wear on the rear side - should be concentric rings running round the piston, they're only on the front side (raised side)...

 

Last edited: Jul 9, 2014

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2014

• #337

So, I decided to check the bore wasn't oval before ordering a new piston - would mean a rebore and 5x oversize if it was...

Popped the top ring off and poked it down into the main worn area of the cylinder using the piston, then tried getting a feeler gauge down the side. Luckily it just get catching on the ring, so fingers crossed a new hone and piston will do the job. There seem to be differences of opinion on whether these can be rehoned or bored out, but turners do it so that's good enough for me...

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2014

• #338

Blinged up the sump a bit, looked a lot cleaner before the lacquer went on!

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2014

• #339

Started looking at replacing the stem seals on the head and cleaning up the valves...

Popped out number 5's valves first, the inlet was totally caked in black goo - so this is either the seal leaking or oil/gunge blow by (or old EGR gunk build up)...

I'm going to give the ports the good news with paraffin and scotchbrite once I've popped all the valves out:

Here's the valves after a bit of a clean:

Glad it was suggested to regrind them, they look a bit knarly.

 

M

Maaarrghk

New Member

• Jul 11, 2014

• #340

Hi Benneh. As I mentioned the other day, the inlet valves will be OK with a quick grind in with fine paste. The exhausts look like they will need grinding in with some coarse before proceeding to the fine. Replace any exhausts that are really bad, but they should all be about the same unless there is a problem with a particular cylinder.

Now you have had a piston out it may be worth replacing all the rings. I know, MORE expense. But as you have got this far you might as well, especially for the oil control rings. It's something I always do as a matter of good practice.

Also, if you have had a gudgeon pin out, if it has the little circular spring clips at each end to keep it in place, you MUST replace these clips with new as they are single use items. Think of the damage one of those wee thingies will do to a bore if it decides to pop out!

Keep up the good work!