Wicket man · Nov 21, 2021

Right size bearings arrived on Friday so got them put in today and all seems OK now , struggled with how the rear oil seal assembly went back together I was sure I'd put it in wrong so took it out and started again I think I got it right first time .
Not sure if I've got the cam shaft timing right as I had the block upside down as not got the sump on and I don't have a stand , will double check it tomorrow as its dark and cold now and I'm working on it outside .

Brown · Nov 21, 2021

So far so good. I'm sure it's enjoying the attention and all the nice new parts. It's thirty years since I had a Series engine apart but I seem to remember the camshaft timing was fairly standard - just line the marks up and put the chain on. The links are so big that if you're one tooth out it looks a very long way out of adjustment. The sprockets are on Woodruff keys so there's only one way they can go on.
You can get a lot done outdoors. Most of my car maintenance over the last forty years has been done beneath the stars, aided by inspection lamps whose bulbs were apt to blow if moved suddenly.

Brown · Nov 21, 2021

I might be mis-remembering, but I think you can whip the chain and sprockets off while the engine is in the vehicle, so if new ones become available in a few weeks time it's not impossible to swap them over. Or I could be mixing this up with the BMC B Series in the Morris Oxford we had round about the same time.

Wicket man · Nov 21, 2021

I think the sprocket can slide on a number of ways so needs to be lined up with the marks on the shaft then another marker lined up to a hole on the block .
Some of the sections are a bit unclear in the haynes manual ( or at least they are to me lol ) and as I keep reading it over and over the rebuild is going at a slow pace but I will get there

steve2286w · Nov 21, 2021

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/

This is a lot better than Haynes

Brown · Nov 22, 2021

Wicket man said:
I think the sprocket can slide on a number of ways so needs to be lined up with the marks on the shaft then another marker lined up to a hole on the block .
Some of the sections are a bit unclear in the haynes manual ( or at least they are to me lol ) and as I keep reading it over and over the rebuild is going at a slow pace but I will get there

Beg your pardon, one of them's a spline, isn't it? Once again, if it's a tooth out it's really obvious though.

Wicket man · Nov 25, 2021

Put a coat of paint on not the best paint it's very thin and does not cover very well so probably 3 coats will be needed .
Hoping to get it back in landy this weekend if work and family don't get in the way lol

Wicket man · Nov 27, 2021

In goes the engine an hour trying to line it up to gearbox with no luck so will have go tomorrow as its beer time now

steve2286w · Nov 27, 2021

The leveller should help, you could also try some long 10mm studding on the bellhousing to engage earlier

Wicket man · Nov 28, 2021

Within 10 minutes of starting again this morning it all lined up , result , just got to bolt radiator in place replace coolant pipes then the distributor back in and oil and water and hopefully it will run

Wicket man · Dec 1, 2021

All back together last night bar the radiator over flow pipes and air filter housing but will not start , it will turn over and pop an odd time got fuel and a spark .
Messed with the timing but no luck and wondered if I'd got timing 180 out so stopped leads round but no luck so will have another go later today.
Wondering if I've got cam shaft out of time so I'm thinking if I get no. 1 piston at tdc and both rockers are loose then it is in right . Am I right or is there an easy way of checking or do I need to remove timing chain cover to recheck ?
If nothing else it looks nice when bonnet is opened , I will post a photo later .
Cheers

brianp38dse · Dec 1, 2021

if you turn the engine over by hand with plugs out and rocker cover off and watch the rocker sequence ( the old suck squeeze bang blow) as inlet open to close then piston coming up to top dead and you rockers loose your crank marks and dizzy should all be at the same point to fire or there abouts if you get my drift.

Wicket man · Dec 1, 2021

brianp38dse said:
if you turn the engine over by hand with plugs out and rocker cover off and watch the rocker sequence ( the old suck squeeze bang blow) as inlet open to close then piston coming up to top dead and you rockers loose your crank marks and dizzy should all be at the same point to fire or there abouts if you get my drift.

When no.1 is at tdc one valve is loose and one under pressure but when no.3 is at tdc rockers are loose so valves shut .
Thinking this means the cam is 180 degrees out, or can I use no.3 cylinder to time it or do I need to reposition the cam

marjon · Dec 1, 2021

Wicket man said:
no. 1 piston at tdc and both rockers are loose

Is the compression/firing stroke so yes. So if the rotor is pointing to the correct number 1 HT lead then you are correct.
Have you tried a bit of easystart as the carb may not be set right, or holding hand slightly over the carb top to richen the mixture a bit.

But you sound close

J

Wicket man · Dec 1, 2021

marjon said:
Is the compression/firing stroke so yes. So if the rotor is pointing to the correct number 1 HT lead then you are correct.
Have you tried a bit of easystart as the carb may not be set right, or holding hand slightly over the carb top to richen the mixture a bit.

But you sound close

J

Not tried easy start , one reason is I've got none and a bit worried if I used it the engine might rev too high upon first start .
Thanks for all the advice

marjon · Dec 1, 2021

Wicket man said:
When no.1 is at tdc one valve is loose and one under pressure but when no.3 is at tdc rockers are loose so valves shut .
Thinking this means the cam is 180 degrees out, or can I use no.3 cylinder to time it or do I need to reposition the cam

Are you on the wrong TDC? you sound like you are on the the exhaust/intake stroke next. turn it another 180 or should that be 540

J

brianp38dse · Dec 1, 2021

Wicket man said:
When no.1 is at tdc one valve is loose and one under pressure but when no.3 is at tdc rockers are loose so valves shut .
Thinking this means the cam is 180 degrees out, or can I use no.3 cylinder to time it or do I need to reposition the cam

As i said watch the sequence exhaust should close inlet open then close piston will then come up to top dead on the crank mark and you dizzy should be firing no 1 just before tdc and both rockers should be loose.

brianp38dse · Dec 1, 2021

You can use a bit of hair spray or deodorant in stead of easy start but sound like it is timed wrong

Wicket man · Dec 1, 2021

brianp38dse said:
As i said watch the sequence exhaust should close inlet open then close piston will then come up to top dead on the crank mark and you dizzy should be firing no 1 just before tdc and both rockers should be loose.

I can get that sequence on no. 3 but on no. 1 so I am thinking the cam is out of time.
It got windy and very cold so packed up for the day and I'm thinking a strip down to the cam shaft sprocket is the next move but due to work that can't start till next week. Thanks for your advice

Wicket man · Dec 11, 2021

Not been able to do any work until today due to working outside under a gazebo but been to windy causing the gazebo to try escaping down the street .
Took the timing chain off and refined it all up but can not get it so the rockers have play in them .
I was under the impressthat the camshaft sprocket can only go on one way due to the splines but mine will go on in two ways 180 degrees apart but that means all the markers are not as they should be but the timing appears to be right .
Started raining ING and wind getting up so called it a day

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